T56 clutch options?


Putting out 500lb on a good day guessing
Tearing things down def have TO bearing damage.
If the clutch is hurt those suckers are $900

It has been a good piece though simply cant afford another...and whatever damage to my trans
Anything out there comparable?
Using F body hydraulics if it matters
When my car was getting electrical work done while finishing a frame off the owner decided he wanted to hook up the clutch pedal to the rod w/o asking....so hea could hear it run I was told despite me telling him to not touch anything-made it adjustable dont know why. Felt Ok but it has been overextending things the entre tirme. 200 mi later blammo.
Mechanics...
Putting out 500lb on a good day guessing
Tearing things down def have TO bearing damage.
If the clutch is hurt those suckers are $900

It has been a good piece though simply cant afford another...and whatever damage to my trans
Anything out there comparable?
Using F body hydraulics if it matters
When my car was getting electrical work done while finishing a frame off the owner decided he wanted to hook up the clutch pedal to the rod w/o asking....so hea could hear it run I was told despite me telling him to not touch anything-made it adjustable dont know why. Felt Ok but it has been overextending things the entre tirme. 200 mi later blammo.
Mechanics...

I converted my LT1 T56 to a hydraulic throw out bearing going to a Wilwood 1" bore clutch master, and a push clutch instead of the fbody pull design. My stroker engine is about 500 hp, and I have the Centerforce dual friction with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. My setup has worked great so far, maybe about 2000 miles on it.
Not sure why your having issues. Check the pilot bearing, input shaft/ bearing. As far as the pedal adjustment, was the clutch pedal high, or did the clutch feel like it was slipping?
What centerforce dual friction is $900???
my setup is SBC to SBC flywheel/SBC centerforce dual friction clutch ($350ish i think?) and LS1 hydraulics in a quicktime SBC to LS-T56.
The centerforce DFX clutch is ~$600. Unless you are running their DYAD clutch those are big $$
Using the '85 truck master, I set the pedal stop to right before the master bottoms out. All is good so far


He has yet to have anybody break or wear one out and they still have stockish manners.
CF has been real good to me but was made in USA. They are all made in a rice field now so I wont buy another
Tore the trans out last night for ONCE it came right out.
I cant see a darn thing wrong with anything...yet. Fork, TO bearing looks good????What the hell

Pulling the clutch and flywheel in a few as I know the pilot bushing is probably shot. Was too tight on the shaft and squealed when I initially put it in/ran it. Hard to shift.
Still dont know why the clutch fork goes all the way back and forth when its on the TO bearing Im missing something. Maybe it will fall apart when I take it off.
Dropping the trans off too saw some bronze dust in the fluid. Ouch $$


Still dont know why the fork was sloppy to the point of being able to extendwaaay back and forth while it was still hooked on the TO bearing.
Called Centerforce no spacer used in between them or anything like that
Is your fork held on to the trans with a simple bolt ahd that square piece maybe Im missing a component.
Im stumped...its a stupid clutch


Replaced the shift fork just because, new GM slave.
This time I chose a mount higher up on the pedal has an arm that comes off the top with a hole where the stock stuff went. As thepedal comes down in has a nice arc to it that pushes the slave rod straight in. THink I have the throw right this time. Overextended the last one
have to play with pedal height
Cut the Fbody slave welded on some threaded tube and a male rod end(term) to make it work right. Should be a go
Just got it in then had my appendix out last night so may be a few days before I can drop my dist back in and try it. Think it should work well.
Used the GM fluted pilot bushing which fits over the shaft perfectly unlike the auto pts....or even the Milodons Ive used before.
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the tranny pilot shaft can be perfectly centered in the crank pilot bushing or bearing.
The best adjusted throwout baring fork should be 90 degrees to the tran input shaft in it's static position


Went right in this time with the GM pilot
Last one was a generic, 2 prior to that were Milodons. Good but not sized as nice as the GM
All I gotta do is drop my dist in which I planned to do the next day. Had an appendix out instead still cant lean over the hood so the car sits.
Moment of truth will come when I first push the clutch in if theres any issue or squealing Ill need to play with offset bushings for the block I guess. Should be Ok. From looking at how far the rod has to push the fork (pedal too can only take 7/8 to 1" max throw) the clutch hardly moves. CF said .030 in is plenty sheesh.
THink theres a reason GM stopped using the pull type clutch not the best design in the world. Just wanna finally get this thing down the track for once. Sure sits a lot probably have to change valvesprings from sitting rather than useage



And.....clutch doesnt disengage again

Theres a (very) little adjustment left Ill have to tackle it tomorrow. That will either solve it or the car will sit for the entire season Missed too much work due to surgeries this month.
Paying the bills will be scary but I got a new bullet proof trans and a car that still cant be driven


How the hell does a clutch just go bad?
Looked fine to me had 3 other places look at it all gave it their blessings?
Has less than 1000 mi on it.









