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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 08:42 AM
  #21  
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If you haven't done this much before, why stress yourself any more than you have too. Take the hood off. Same goes for putting it back in. Also a good load leveler is worth it's weight in gold.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #22  
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If you have access to a chain hoist and pit you want have to worry about which side or front to remove the engine but I vote to remove the hood it's just easier. I removed mine from the front with the transmission attached. You can see what parts I removed before pulling the engine. It was tight but had no problems working by myself. You can leave the air condition pump hooked up.

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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 10:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Don 68
If you have access to a chain hoist and pit you want have to worry about which side or front to remove the engine but I vote to remove the hood it's just easier. I removed mine from the front with the transmission attached. You can see what parts I removed before pulling the engine. It was tight but had no problems working by myself. You can leave the air condition pump hooked up.

Wow....from the front! That boom is way out there...

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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #24  
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Wow....from the front! That boom is way out there...

The legs also extend out pretty far. I bought this lift in the mid 80's. They may be making the booms shorter now. It's easier to pull the motor from the front than it is from the side. You can push or pull the lift as you need to remove the motor.
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 08:14 AM
  #25  
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ok, hoods coming off to remove engine, will make it easier to clean up under there anyway.

everyone talks about problems with removing the shroud and radiator removal, or it it just that, bad talk?
or do they mean when the motor is still in the car that there is no room to move it around?

thanks all
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 02:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Super6
I agree, from the side is the way to go. Most engine cranes don't have a boom long enough to reach in from the front either.

You can get a big block in and out from the side with the hood on. One thing you might do to give you a little more room - the hood opens significantly more than where is sits with the factory hood support. Open it up and you should see a hole in the channel support that's pinned to the hood. Put a bolt through the hole and then lower the hood so the bolt sits on the lower support. That will give you another 3" or so of clear opening to maneuver the engine around without hitting the hood.

Hey Fred, Nice picture you didn't send me this one. if you get a vid of the new BB running that would be great to hear. I wish I was home, only 8 more months to go.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
ok, hoods coming off to remove engine, will make it easier to clean up under there anyway.

everyone talks about problems with removing the shroud and radiator removal, or it it just that, bad talk?
or do they mean when the motor is still in the car that there is no room to move it around?

thanks all

Depends on the model year. On my '74 with AC, it is a complete PITA. LOTS of swear words required.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 09:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
i need to remove the engine from my stock 350 72 auto, plan is to leave the trans in the car,

i know, remove the hood, then the basics like fan, rad, alt, ps pump etc.
what about the ac compressor?, dosent look like it will move too far out of the way, woulb prefer no to have to de-gas it.

do i remove as much weight as possible from the engine b4 i lift it out?
ie; carb & dissy (to advoid damage mainly), exh manifolds etc.

how do i support the bell housing/trans when engine is removed?
will need to move the car around once it's all out to work on detailing the bay.

have acces to a pit and block n tackle to do the lifting.

never removed an engine out of a vette before.
so is there a step by step procedure on here that i can follow?
any advice?

Adjust the following checklist to your specific vehicle:

REMOVAL
 Disconnect battery cables at battery.
 Drain cooling system.
 Remove air cleaner.
 Remove all accessory drive belts.
 Remove fan and water pump pulley.
 Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses at engine.
 Disconnect heater hoses at engine.
 If equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect cooler lines at radiator.
 Remove radiator and shroud.
 Disconnect accelerator linkage and detent linkage, if so equipped, from carburetor.
 If A/C equipped, remove compressor from engine and lay aside. Do not disconnect lines from compressor.
 If power steering equipped, remove pump from engine and lay aside.
 Remove engine wiring harness from engine.
 Disconnect fuel line at fuel pump.
 Disconnect all vacuum lines from intake manifold.
 Raise vehicle.
 Drain crankcase.
 Disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold flanges.
 "K" models with automatic transmission, remove strut rods at motor mounts.
 Remove flywheel or converter splash shield, as applicable.
 Disconnect wiring along right pan rail.
 Disconnect wiring at starter and remove starter.
 Disconnect wiring for gas gauge.
 If equipped with automatic transmission, remove converter to flex plate attaching bolts.
 Support transmission.
 Remove bell housing to engine retaining bolts.
 Remove lower engine mount bracket to frame bolts.
 Lower vehicle.
 Remove vehicle hood.
 Attach engine lifting device.
 Remove engine.

INSTALLATION

 Place engine in vehicle.
 Raise vehicle.
 Install engine mount bracket to frame bolts.
 Install bell housing to engine retaining bolts. Remove transmission support.
 If equipped with automatic transmission, install converter to flex plate attaching bolts.
 Install flywheel or converter splash shield, as applicable.
 Connect wiring for gas gauge.
 Install starter. Connect wiring.
 Install engine wiring harness along right pan rail.
 Connect exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold flanges.
 Lower vehicle.
 Connect all vacuum lines to intake manifold.
 Connect fuel line at fuel pump.
 Install engine wiring harness to engine.
 If power steering equipped, install pump on engine.
 If A/C equipped, install compressor on engine.
 Connect accelerator linkage and detent linkage, if so equipped, to carburetor.
 Install radiator.
 If equipped with automatic transmission, connect cooler lines to radiator.
 Connect heater hoses to engine.
 Connect radiator hoses to engine.
 Install water pump pulley and fan to water pump.
 Install accessory drive belts. Adjust to specifications.
 Fill cooling system.
 Fill crankcase.
 Connect battery cables and start engine. Check timing and
carburetor adjustment and adjust if necessary.
 Install air cleaner and vehicle hood.
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #29  
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I knew I was going to be a remove the hood type of guy. I bought the easy align hood hinges. The kit is basically a hole with a pin on one side and the lever shown below on the other side. You still need two people but it is easier to install. Once you line it up the first time, subsequent removal and install is truly a snap.

The kit was expensive.
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #30  
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showed a bloke at work that latch, he was impressed.

then he said why dont you just drill/ream a couple of small holes bout 5mm(3/16") along side the bolts b4 you remove it.
that way you can place a pin(s) in to re-align when putting back on.

he said he's seen it done that way on other car forums, and should work fine.

is that a stupid idea or sound advice?

is there enough thickness of material under the hinge to be able to do that?

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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 08:06 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
showed a bloke at work that latch, he was impressed.

then he said why dont you just drill/ream a couple of small holes bout 5mm(3/16") along side the bolts b4 you remove it.
that way you can place a pin(s) in to re-align when putting back on.

he said he's seen it done that way on other car forums, and should work fine.

is that a stupid idea or sound advice?

is there enough thickness of material under the hinge to be able to do that?

Why not just carefully spray a bit of paint on each hinge where it connects and you would know it bolted back in the same location each time?
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MrJlr
I still don't understand why you wouldn't just pull off the hood??????? It's easy enough.......

The correct answer is: Why would you remove the hood or the radiator? It is about as dumb as I should pull the rear tires off to change the motor

It is just extra time and when ever you handle something like the hood the chances of chipping the paint can happen

I also don't remove or install with the tranny connected to the motor.

If I had a Vette with a solid tranny cross member I would convert it to a removable.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by gkull
The correct answer is: Why would you remove the hood or the radiator? It is about as dumb as I should pull the rear tires off to change the motor

It is just extra time and when ever you handle something like the hood the chances of chipping the paint can happen

I also don't remove or install with the tranny connected to the motor.

If I had a Vette with a solid tranny cross member I would convert it to a removable.
Why open the door when you walk in the room ?

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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MrJlr
Why open the door when you walk in the room ?

If I have changed 20 motors in and out of vettes and never removed the hood or the radiator................. Why would I do extra work and take a chance of chipping the edge of my hood like i did when reinstalling my hood 25 years ago when I removed the hood to do a motor swap.

The other people not removing hoods was a 540 ci dart tall block. so tell me why?
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by gkull
If I have changed 20 motors in and out of vettes and never removed the hood or the radiator................. Why would I do extra work and take a chance of chipping the edge of my hood like i did when reinstalling my hood 25 years ago when I removed the hood to do a motor swap.

The other people not removing hoods was a 540 ci dart tall block. so tell me why?
I'm not going to argue about it....
It's just easier and you have better access....IMO.
Frankly - I don't really care what people do with their own cars

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