Well, Thanks to Richard 454.

I finally got the wiper door converted to electric. First the headlights, now the wiper door. no more vacuum hoses. I still have to clean up the bracket and paint; then get a good video, but this works better than I could have imagined. Hopefully get it cleaned up this weekend.

 

That looks good Can you share some some details also?

Thanks

Jim

 

In the process of converting my headlights and would LOVE to get rid of the coffee-can actuator off my firewall at the same time!

 

Hey Thanks-

The motors are from a power seat - I bought a handfull of them.



I'm working on a bracket that is more flush- I'll post picture up this evening after the doorbell stops ringing...and I'm sick of candy!!!

Richard

 

Do you know if this set-up will clear the evaporator housing on cars with factory A/C?

 

Are you selling these Richard? PM me some info.

 

I used the same motor as Richard; got it off Amazon. Jeep Cherokee has a similar motor. Actually, I pulled the female shaft with the acme threads off the Jeep. Distance is an issue with the linkage. I cut the worm drive down 1" to 3", cut the female shaft just enough to keep the threads (left approx. 1"), and cut the linkage threads down to 1"- 1 3/4. Welded some 5/16 all thread to the top of the linkage threads, and welded the stock coupler(cut to 3/4") on to the 1" female threaded shaft. I ran the coupler down the threads as far as they would go, and ran a nut on top to lock in place. This was because the female threaded shaft will want to rotate. This also enable me to hold the female shaft off center so the worm drive will clear the linkage as it runs in and out. I also cut out the hole, and the metal bracing of the wiper door assembly to clear.The bracket needs to be rounded out and a spacer to replace the nuts. I have those just to keep the motor solid. I'll put some tubing on it similar to the headlight spacer between the two brackets. I feel I got lucky with the distance. You'll have to make that work individually. As for the switch; I used a dual post dual throw momentary on and spliced the power from the wiper override switch below the steering column. I fits real nice where the vacuum pulls used to be.



The other side will be my MIL light.

This took a little engineering , but was well worth it. I'll take it all apart over the weekend and get some better pics and a video.

Richard, if you have some simpler ideas that might cut down on my long winded approach; please have at it. Take care.

 

OK...long winded? Not really!
I'm using some aluminum tube- and the 16 gu steel is for mock up- will go w/ aluminum and weld together.

I bought the motors w/ the Acme thread-

The motors come in left and right hand- basically swapped mounting heads,

The problem is the connector- I haven't had the chance to pull on apart and re-clock the motor -that would place the connector away from the firewall- and it could be rotated to fit many different mounting/motor/heater box issues. In my case my throttle bodies are in the way- but running Vintage Air so the firewall is flat.

As far as electrical switching- I've gotten a hold of some DPDT- double pole double throw- switches that look like they will do the trick (uses on a microwave door)

I am redoing my linkage- not much room inside and the angle changes through out the movement- in the video you can hear a little binding as it nears the end of travel.

Here are some pics-

Richard

left and right motors-



new intake velocity stacks - in the way....



connector in the way....

 

Nice job!

I did an electric conversion on my '70 as well, used a linear actuator instead of a ball screw so that it drives it from straight on. Either way you do it it's a nice improvement over the vacuum in my opinion.

 

Wow, that is so cool! Another future project!

 

Time is short and I'm sure this is not the last tweaking on this project; but here is the video I was able to get so far. Also, was able clean things up a bit. The noise is my father in law looking for a wrench. The motor is very quiet. I now believe the major mods are done for this car; moving towards paint.









Again, excuse the dust. Working in a barn garage has its challenges.

 

If the motor works by reverse polarity, you can wire it to your existing console wiper switch. I'm doing that with my linear actuator operated wiper door.

 

This may be a dumb question but:
Does the door move fast enough and get out of the way so that the wipers don't hit it upon opening?
The speed of opening seems somewhat slower than with the vacuum set-up.
Elm

 

Only when the door is fully open (well-if adjusted properly) do the wipers start. The main power for the motor is switched by the linkage- switch on the firewall -pass side- large red/white wire.

Richard

 

I was right- Dumb question!
Thanks Richard!
Elm

 

Can you provide some details on the actual linear actuator you used, i.e stroke, length size, bracket used and where you bought it.
Sam

 

I got mine from these guys, 2" stroke:
http://www.firgelliauto.com/

 

I used a linear actuator off ebay for like 25 bux, got two burglar alarm contacts/magnets from Radio Shack, drew up a schematic, for using 3 relays to control the door operation, and so I also added intermittent wipers operation.....

Anyone want information, PM me your email, and I can forward some files, there are a few pix on my sites below,

 

Thanks Gary, there are several different 2" stroke models with different force ratings. Would you know which one you used?
Sam

 

Awesome work. Just another thing to add to the list of things that would be cool to do to mine. Thanks for the videos.

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