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I have a 74 BB with no AC but from what I hear it won't help much to add that feature. The cabin will just get too hot driving for a long period on a hot day with or without it. Pretty much all have the problem small or big block but there are some partial solutions. No real fix as I hear though.?
You can put more insulation on the floor pan and firewall, and a coolant cut-off valve on the heater core.. Don't know if that would help (or you've already done it).
If your seals in your duct work are not sealing (blend door) it will allow hot air into your ducts. I do not believe that non A/C cars have a hot water shut off valve but you can add one manually inline to eliminate water flowing to your heater core. The there is the hood to cowl seal, is it in place? As Mike said installing heat insulation will help a bunch.
If your seals in your duct work are not sealing (blend door) it will allow hot air into your ducts. I do not believe that non A/C cars have a hot water shut off valve but you can add one manually inline to eliminate water flowing to your heater core. The there is the hood to cowl seal, is it in place? As Mike said installing heat insulation will help a bunch.
Yeah I had to remove that for high rise manifold and other custom parts. Ok that could be key to the problem and realize the importance of it now. Thanks
Yeah I had to remove that for high rise manifold and other custom parts. Ok that could be key to the problem and realize the importance of it now. Thanks
Without that seal hot air is coming from the engine bay into your cowl and right into your fresh air vents. That seal is all of about $8 or less. Major contributor to your problem.
Without that seal hot air is coming from the engine bay into your cowl and right into your fresh air vents. That seal is all of about $8 or less. Major contributor to your problem.
That sounds like you hit the nail on the head, I forgot about that detail and that is where most of the heat is coming from the vents. Thanks