C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Ok my 74 coupe has smoke coming out of ehaust not terrible but visable at times should I buy new heads or should I rebuilt my original ??
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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The questions always become how much do you want to spend, and how much (more) power do you want?
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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What kind of mtr S/B how many mile on mtr. may just need a valve job. Smoke when you start car??
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Yes I got the l82 motor 80000 miles it does smoke at start up I have had the valve seals replaced not really looking for power just not to smoke
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:16 PM
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find a good shop that specializes in heads if you can,guides , 3 angle valve job and some bowl work will take care of the problem and help the power a bit.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
not really looking for power just not to smoke

The place to start here is with a leak-down and compression test - this will tell you where the "leak" is and how bad it is. I suspect it's the guides, but that's the purpose of the test. The tools are pretty cheap from Harbor Freight (not great tools but "good enough) and using them is fairly easy if a bit of work.


Any more a quality valve job is knocking on $500. A shop that can touch up the short radius of the intake runners and maybe cleaning up under the valves for a mild port might be worth the investment - just be sure they know what they're doing.


Taking a little time and measuring how far the pistons are down in the bore would let you select the right head gasket for ideal quench and a little CR boost.


Finally, a cam swap at the same time is worth thinking about "while you're in there". The L82 cam isn't bad, but a more modern grind around the same specs will make more power. It also lets you change out the timing chain...a very good idea.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Thanks I just did the timing chain not sure about the cam I just wanted it to run nice and clean
I'm just wondering to you car guys if it makes sense rebuilding my heads or get new ones there's lots of options and prices on amazon etc I'm sure those heads come complete
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 08:02 PM
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OK, so if you buy new heads, they will probably be higher performance: if you have the heads redone, they will have all the correct bolt holes for everything to bolt back up, will better than they are now(if done correctly), will be original to the motor(if original to it now). How can we tell you what to do? It is also how deep are your pockets are, get pricing on head work before, compare to cost of new heads, then make a decision yourself.


Off course check with the wife to make sure she is happy with your decision. Also, Christmas is coming up REAL soon.

Last edited by lvmyvt76; Nov 4, 2013 at 08:05 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:01 PM
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lol yes I was just checking the pros and cons
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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do a leak down test,and pull the valve covers and look at the valve seals.you can replace valve seals with the heads in the car .
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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Ill do a compression test valve seals were replaced
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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In this case, the leak-down will tell you more than the compression test - including where the blowby is happening.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 08:00 AM
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I had my DART heads rebuilt for $600 at a local speed shop. You can get the stock heads rebuilt for $500 or less and that is with all new valve guides and 3-angle valve cut.

I paid extra for DART guides and even had steel valve seat inserts put in my heads so you may pay less.

Be sure to have them magnafluxed to check for cracks.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 08:28 AM
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I would find a couple of engine shops that have good reputations from others and talk to the owner and machine man, asking questions first, then get an estimate. Make sure and talk with speed heads about who they recommend. The estimate should be written detailing what is going to be done, and what happens if they find a surprise. GOOD LUCK!!
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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That cam was originally installed in the L46 with 11 to 1 compression. The L82 dropped compression to 9 to 1 with no change in cam design. This drops power over 8% across the entire RPM range not just peak plus a DCR reduction for more power loss. That combined with poor factory head flow restricts power drastically. If your looking at spending $500+ on a valve job, your leakdown test is good, and your cam and lifters are ok I would suggest upgrading to a set of Dart SHP 64 cc 180 heads and 1.6 rockers with a performance distributor curve. This gets you new aluminum heads, weight reduction, way better flow numbers, compression more aligned with the cam specs, and lift and duration to compliment the head flow. Exhaust is the next bottleneck and should be upgraded. This will cost you about $500-600 more plus exhaust but I would guess 20-30% power increase across the board.

Last edited by 63mako; Nov 5, 2013 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by garygnu
do a leak down test,and pull the valve covers and look at the valve seals.you can replace valve seals with the heads in the car .
+1 to that... if your only concern is the valve seals, no reason to rebuild the entire head. Just replace the valve seals with the heads on the car.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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Good ideas I already have a magnaflow ehaust system with lg headers
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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I already replaced the valve seals that didn't change a thing
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
I already replaced the valve seals that didn't change a thing
I am unsure what you are looking at in your heads then... you should be looking at your piston rings.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
I already replaced the valve seals that didn't change a thing
If the guides are worn, seals will not keep the oil out of the combustion chamber.

what type of seals did you install? If you have stock heads with single spring with damper, you can install the one-piece umbrella seals which are a step up from the basic o-ring seal.

Another question: Any valvetrain noise? Am asking as my guides were so worn that I was getting high rpm rattle in the valve train. If no noticeable noises from valvetrain, umbrella seals may work (if you don'thave them already).
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