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I looked at assembly manual and read the tech note at Wilcox. I understand the entire procedure but am at a loss on how to pry the bracket down to get the lower bushing out.
I cant find a reasonable place to put the pry bar.
If you are asking how to separate the crossmember that the differential connects to from the frame, I just put my prybar between the frame and crossmember (at the end of the crossmember) and pried it loose. I left the crossmember bolts engaged by the last couple threads to catch the crossmember. It pops loose.
We are assuming you are working on the front bushing set under the rear driveshaft u-joint. If you have removed the nut from the bolt and removed the bolt then the bushings should come out fairly easy. It does not move much at all since the differential is still connected to the frame crossmember at the top. Depending on the year, the lower bracket unbolts from the differential housing. On 80 through 82 it is part of the housing itself. Not sure what your difficulty might be otherwise.
That's the one. I have tried to follow the directions on Wilcox site and the thing will not separate.
Do I need to un bolt it from the third member?
Not sure if it's necessary or not to u. Lot third member. I do. Just removed my diff this week.
It takes a lot of force to separate the cross member from the frame. I have a 4ft long pry bar and it took plenty plenty force. In fact first time I removed it several years ago I drove a wedge between the members to pop them loose.
Not sure if it's necessary or not to u. Lot third member. I do. Just removed my diff this week.
It takes a lot of force to separate the cross member from the frame. I have a 4ft long pry bar and it took plenty plenty force. In fact first time I removed it several years ago I drove a wedge between the members to pop them loose.
It's a little tricky, (and I do have a hoist) but I have used a crowbar and a block of wood or metal plate to protect the brakeline and am able to pry down enough right at the front to get it in and out. I have several different crowbars- finding one with just the right angle on it is helpful. If you can't seem to get any clearance, maybe removing the front one of the 2 bracket bolts would then let it pivot down enough to do it.
I found that prying from the side worked best. You are fighting the suspension and the differential wants to rotate up toward the car.
There should be a warning:
CAUTION, DURING THE PRYING PROCESS THE MOUNT WILL DEVELOP A LARGE AMOUNT OR STORDED ENERGY AND UNEXPECTED RELEASE DUE TO PRY BAR SLIPPING WILL RESULT IN THE CORVETTE FIXER AND HIS HELPER POTENTIALY CRAPPING THERE PANTS IF NOT EXPECTING THIS.
It's a pita! Just did mine a couple months ago and like said, tried a few bars myself till I got one that worked, but it still slipped kinda easy. Just hope you don't gotta beat the old one loose with a chissel too. I greased my new up, so hopefully I won't have that problem again. Also crushed my brake line a tad, but I'm putting all new lines in here soon.
I found that prying from the side worked best. You are fighting the suspension and the differential wants to rotate up toward the car.
There should be a warning:
CAUTION, DURING THE PRYING PROCESS THE MOUNT WILL DEVELOP A LARGE AMOUNT OR STORDED ENERGY AND UNEXPECTED RELEASE DUE TO PRY BAR SLIPPING WILL RESULT IN THE CORVETTE FIXER AND HIS HELPER POTENTIALY CRAPPING THERE PANTS IF NOT EXPECTING THIS.
AS A SIDE BAR YOU COULD BREAK A FINGER
BE CAREFULL
Other than that piece of cake
Thanks for all the help
This one is off the list
Sorry, I thought you were trying to separate the differential crossmember from the frame. The only experience I have had with the bushing at different mounting bracket is removing and installing the differential. At that point it’s kind of a non-issue. I can see where that connection would put up a really fight with the differential connected to the car. I’m glad to hear you got the bushings replaced without any damage or injuries.