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PAINLESS Wiring Harness. How Difficult?

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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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Default PAINLESS Wiring Harness. How Difficult?

As a 1980 L48, My car is approaching 34 years of age. One place where I would like to do a chassis refresh is the wiring harness.

Questions:
Can I do it (ie. do I need help?)?
Can it be done in sections?
How much has to come off of the car to install?
What are the pitfalls and gotchas?
Is it cost prohibitive?
What improvements can I leverage with a new harness (fuel injection, increased voltage?, LED lighting, etc.)

I'm considering install of a new dashboard in winter 2013/early 2014. This would seem to be the PERFECT time to attack the harness. I'm also planning to have the seatbelts rehab'd by the Snake Oyle outfit that rebuilds the buckles, installs new retractors and all new belts/webbing.
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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I rewired my car with a kit that wasnt painless but universal and had the fuse block like the universal painless kit. The laying upside down under the dash isnt the most uncomfortable place if you take out the DS seat.
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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If it's in good working order----leave it alone. Upgrades like fuel injection come with their own add-on harness.

(My '68 harness would have been in excellent shape, but previous owners chopped into it too much)

Last edited by doorgunner; Nov 11, 2013 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 10:03 PM
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AmericanAutoWire.com has GM restoration wiring harness's for different sections of the car. just fyi..............
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 08:08 AM
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Good advice. Once I gave it some more thought, the areas that I would address are under-hood and really just need to address damaged/weak connections. Will leave the rest alone... except:

One thing I would like to address is my cig lighter. It has been disconnected since before I bought the car. I would like to be able to power my cell phone off of it using in-car adapter. I'll do some research and figure out why it was disconnected to begin with (I suspect a short somewhere).

Also, I disconnected the analog clock because it drains the battery. Are there any options to keeping a clock connected but lessening the draw from the battery?
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TedH

One thing I would like to address is my cig lighter. It has been disconnected since before I bought the car. I would like to be able to power my cell phone off of it using in-car adapter.
There is a single orange wire attached to the bottom of the lighter probably just fell off. Remove the side cover (drivers side) on the center console two screws and take a look.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by micks69
There is a single orange wire attached to the bottom of the lighter probably just fell off. Remove the side cover (drivers side) on the center console two screws and take a look.
Thanks. I recall seeing the round ring attached to a wire that goes between the two halves of the lighter. I ended up wrapping it in tape as it was exposed.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 06:42 AM
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Look at Lectric Limited. I believe that is the name.
They have exact replica replacements. I replaced from the fusebox forward, two different harnesses, and couldn't be happier. Amazing, and scary, what you find on a 40 year old wire harness that is in the engine compartment.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 07:59 AM
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I would like to do the same.. but would really like to update the harness with more circuits and modern blade fuses. I have read that some of the painless harness will fit the firewall hole without much if any modification... don't really want to get into that. Anyone gone that route?

I looked at Lectric for their Custom Update Series but they do have one listed for C3s...
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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I installed a quartz clock.

The lighter connection might look like this:
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TedH
...I recall seeing the round ring attached to a wire that goes between the two halves of the lighter. I ended up wrapping it in tape as it was exposed....
It grounds the lighter case.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:54 AM
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Unless you are doing a complete frame off and your wiring can be repaired I would just repair what you got.

I'm doing a painless in my 73 frame off and its not hard at all but with the dash removed I have lots of room to work.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Does the Painless fuse block fit in firewall without modifying it or any other mods, other than simple things. Would love to use of them.. just don't want to cut up the firewall...

Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by Tim 1973
Unless you are doing a complete frame off and your wiring can be repaired I would just repair what you got.

I'm doing a painless in my 73 frame off and its not hard at all but with the dash removed I have lots of room to work.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kcarlasc
Does the Painless fuse block fit in firewall without modifying it or any other mods, other than simple things. Would love to use of them.. just don't want to cut up the firewall...

Thanks!!!
Yes fits directly in the org hole. No modifying the firewall...
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:09 PM
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Cool.. which harness did you use?

Originally Posted by Tim 1973
Yes fits directly in the org hole. No modifying the firewall...
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kcarlasc
Cool.. which harness did you use?
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 06:25 PM
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Default Wiring Harness

I just replaced front to back on 1969
Lectric limited
Is the place, color codes, connectors, it is as close to exact replica as you can buy. Just be patient. My first, it worked great
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To PAINLESS Wiring Harness. How Difficult?

Old Nov 13, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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If you are not doing significant electrical modifications/changes, a Painless or aftermarket universal fit harness will be far from painless

I changed alot of my electronics in my car so I went for a universal painless kit. It was alot of work to get everything cut to length, and integrate into what factory electronics I had left.

Also, wire degrades from the inside, so dont judge your wire condition by how the insulation looks.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vette427-sbc
If you are not doing significant electrical modifications/changes, a Painless or aftermarket universal fit harness will be far from painless

I changed alot of my electronics in my car so I went for a universal painless kit. It was alot of work to get everything cut to length, and integrate into what factory electronics I had left.

Also, wire degrades from the inside, so dont judge your wire condition by how the insulation looks.
VETTE427 is 100% correct, I'm changing a lot on my vette, I have removed all the vacuum systems, my AC is a vintage air, my engine is a LSX 454. my gage lighting is LED's so not much is org in my 73.

If you are halfway good with wiring and can read a wiring diagram its not that hard. You will need the org wiring diagram so you can figure out how the org circuit works.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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Here is the kit I used and it looks just like the Painless in pics, but I hope the Painless has all the wires to complete circuits this one is missing.



and the one that almost burned the car up

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