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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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Default Gremlins!

So my window motors seem to work when they feel like it...as do most of my gauges...
Today I decided to gamble and lowered the passemger window a smidge to allow a little ventilation in the cabin. The window worked fine when I took delivery of my 76 Coupe a little over a week ago but had been sporadic ever since. Today it worked but then when I parked the car and attempted to "roll" it up; nothing. It's definitely a loose wire or connection somewhere. Its not the switch or the wires directly leading to it cause I've checked them. My center instrument bezel is broken and I know that you can lose ground due to the pieces of the metal bezel not making contact but i jiggled that around too. Don"t think its a fuse cause they don't typically unburn and begin working again...Soooo whaddaya think it may be??
Thanks!
Diesel
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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How did you check the switches, if the interior contacts are going bad you wouldnt know until they completely fail. Read this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ke-a-look.html
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
How did you check the switches, if the interior contacts are going bad you wouldnt know until they completely fail. Read this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ke-a-look.html
Visually and using deductive reasoning. Both switches operate when they want to, then they both don't at precisely the same times...
By the way I had checked out that Willcox switch rebuild video when I thought the problem was in my switches.
Diesel
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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did you check the fuse box for a power window relay? read this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...gram-76-a.html

Last edited by MelWff; Nov 14, 2013 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
did you check the fuse box for a power window relay? read this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...gram-76-a.html
This looks like a likely place for my gremlins to be lurking! I'll be investigating...
Thanks!
Diesel
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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I would check the dash harness ground.

On my 72 it's attached to the birdcage on the drivers side front pillar. To access it, you need to remove the drivers side door sill, and then the kick panel.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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Thanks for all of the suggestions guys! Incredible wealth of knowledge here!
Diesel
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
did you check the fuse box for a power window relay? read this link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...gram-76-a.html
It seems there is actually enough difference between the 77 and 76 console to make that schematic not completely useful for my challenge. The relay location in that schematic is where my climate control cluster is.
Also, is the "circuit breaker" the same as a fuse? (I wouldn't think so). In the fuse panel upper left position, I have a little metal box that snaps in where a fuse would fit. I'm guessing that may be the circuit breaker but in any "76 Corvette fuse kits" that I've located on line (Eckler's etc) there are only the glass buss fuses, no "little metal box".
Can I just slam a 30 amp fuse in it's place??
Please Help!
Thanks!
Diesel
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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No, unless you want to buy another car. Go to this site and lookup the power window circuit breaker
http://www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
No, unless you want to buy another car. Go to this site and lookup the power window circuit breaker
http://www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm
Guessing you said that because of the potential of overheating and fire?? Could I jump it with a fuse temporarily just to get the window up??
Thanks for the link.
Diesel
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MCVDiesel
Guessing you said that because of the potential of overheating and fire?? Could I jump it with a fuse temporarily just to get the window up??
Thanks for the link.
Diesel
That's the critter! Still curios if I can do a temp jump.
DieselName:  circuit breaker.jpg
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 04:58 PM
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Yes you can "jump" it...but the wire needs to be 10 gauge at minimum...due to the current load when the motors operate. DO NOT use a fuse!!!! It is not the same as a circuit breaker. And I have seen/experienced numerous times that the circuit breaker is fine...it is the contacts in the fuse panel that this circuit breakers gets held in by...have some "stuff" on them and do not allow the correct amount of current to pass through as designed.

DUB
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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***************
Yes you can "jump" it...but the wire needs to be 10 gauge at minimum...due to the current load when the motors operate. *DO NOT use a fuse!!!! * It is not the same as a circuit breaker. * And I have seen/experienced numerous times that the circuit breaker is fine...it is the contacts in the fuse panel that this circuit breakers gets held in by...have some "stuff" on them and do not allow the correct amount of current to pass through as designed.

DUB
***************

It ended up being an unblown but nevertheless defective 10amp fuse preventing my console gauges and windows from operating. I imagine it was the power feeding the window relay. Discovered it using a volt meter. It was intermittent which made it challenging to find. 50 cents later and we're back in action. Also replaced the driver window motor. Fiddlie job but not too difficult.* Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to need to replace the regulator and tracks. Everything is loose and sloppy and I'd bet money the spring is gone. Oh well I continue to learn about my new toy!*
Diesel

Carl J. Galler
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Office 443-833-5400

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Originally Posted by DUB
Yes you can "jump" it...but the wire needs to be 10 gauge at minimum...due to the current load when the motors operate. DO NOT use a fuse!!!! It is not the same as a circuit breaker. And I have seen/experienced numerous times that the circuit breaker is fine...it is the contacts in the fuse panel that this circuit breakers gets held in by...have some "stuff" on them and do not allow the correct amount of current to pass through as designed.

DUB
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 05:06 PM
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Carl,

Glad to read that you got it repaired and working.

For what it is worth:
I can not count the number of times I have repaired most electrical issues at the fuse panel itself. If you encounter anything in the future...start there first. Also ...ALL power in your fuse panel is coming from the outer terminals (left and right) and then flows through the fuses to the center of the fuse panel. And I guess as you found out. EACH center terminal for BAT, IGN, ACC is controlled by a fuse....so if wiring up something aftermarket...keep an eye on how much more amp draw this new item will add to the already protected circuit.

When you get to working on your windows...I would more than likely bet that the rollers (front and rear) are worn out...which allow an excessive amount of "in and out" play in the glass when it is all the way at the top.

DUB
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Carl,

Glad to read that you got it repaired and working.

For what it is worth:
I can not count the number of times I have repaired most electrical issues at the fuse panel itself. If you encounter anything in the future...start there first. Also ...ALL power in your fuse panel is coming from the outer terminals (left and right) and then flows through the fuses to the center of the fuse panel. And I guess as you found out. EACH center terminal for BAT, IGN, ACC is controlled by a fuse....so if wiring up something aftermarket...keep an eye on how much more amp draw this new item will add to the already protected circuit.

When you get to working on your windows...I would more than likely bet that the rollers (front and rear) are worn out...which allow an excessive amount of "in and out" play in the glass when it is all the way at the top.

DUB
All very good info to file away in my personal knowledge bank.
Thanks!
Diesel
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