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Dreaded Window Adjustment on 82CE

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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 04:58 PM
  #1  
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Default Dreaded Window Adjustment on 82CE

I am trying to get my window adjusted on the driver side after replacing the regulator and new roller guides. I could not get it adjusted correctly before so decided to replace the worn out regulator. Now I can not even get it close to rolling up correctly now. I have reviewed the shop manual (red cover book) but what I have done according to this is just as far as it can go.

When I try to roll it up it wants to come inside the car way too far. It hits between the metal clip (not the blow-out clip) and the A-pillar plastic cover. The rear part of the glass wants to hit the trim cover as well. Everything I try does not get the glass to move outwards any further. It seems to be solid ad will not move any further even if every thing is loose. This was similar to the same problem I was having before but not this bad. Where do I start?

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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 01:50 AM
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mine did the same thing when i replaced both entire regulators. on my 79, i ended up buying two suction cups with handles from harbor freight. rolled the window almost all the way up with the door open, stuck on the suction cups, loosened all the adjustment bolts, shut the door easy... rolled window up rest of the way, used the suction cups to put the glass where i wanted it. then had my son tighten the adjusment bolts inside. while i held it in place. both sides work great every time now.....
http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-cu...ter-46134.html
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:58 AM
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Thanks, that was going to be my next step based on some other posts I found on this site and some others. Sure hope it works as this is frustrating after instaling all new parts and not any better that what I basically had before.
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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Did you mark...or can you see where the bolts were located from the factory???

This is a quite easy process...even though it may take a little bit of time. The only problems I have encountered are Corvettes that were damaged and the post is off....thus throwing off any adjustment possibilities.

The felt adjusters in conjunction with the front and rear tracks is what controls the amount of "lean in-lean out" that the door glass will have. Also depending on the front edge of the door main weatherstripping can effect any adjustment...because the door glass rides within in when coming up.

If putting the bolts back where they were located...or if there are marks all over the place where they were located and you can not tell where they actually went originally. You can roll the window up...try to get the horizontal track adjusted so teh top edge of yoru door glass is level with yoru T-top weatherstrips.

With the front and rear tracks at the top loose...along with the felt adjusters...CAREFULLY close the door and checking to make sure the door glass will not hit on anything when you do so. Once you get it to fit and you can close the door. Go in form the other side and tighten up the upper track bolts and the felt adjusters. Set the upper stops for the front and rear tracks.

Carefully open the door and watch to see if the window tilts inward excessively. IF it does. Then you can loosen the upper bolts for the tracks and then PULL the track towards the inside...and tighten. This movement will stand the glass up more vertical...due to pivoting on the felt adjuster. It is a balancing act.

Once you get it to work. Close the door and roll the window up and if your weatherstrips are CORRECT and not dense...the window should be able to roll all the way up. If you have the incorrect weatherstrips...especially at the windshield pillar and the rear vertical section...your door glass will bind and there is not much you can do about that other than either replace then with the correct LATEX style...or keep spending time trying to get it to go up all the way when the door is closed.

Sometimes due to age...the inner steel section of your door frame is wider than designed...and sometimes I have to close it back in to get the door parts to work as designed.

For what it is worth...have the engine running or use a battery charger to keep good voltage to the system. Trying to set you door glass with just the ignition on is pointless...due to voltage drop over time and you will begin to wonder why the windows keep needing adjusting...especially when you have the door closed and rolling ti up. I always tell my customer to make sure the engine is running when rolling up the windows. It is only common sense.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Nov 25, 2013 at 06:12 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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Great Info Dub.

I have to do this on both doors next. My windows roll up and down slowly however, I am currently just using a battery charger to power parts of the vehicle until I get it running. Then I will buy a battery. No need to let it sit and not be used.
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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Dub,
Thanks for the great information. I have it much closer now by using the suction cup method before reading your post. My issue right now is it seems to bind up on the rear weatherstrip and not roll all the way up. I had to replace the rear seal due to a tear in the old one. I replaced it with EDPM which sounds like it might be an issue now as you are stating it should be the latex version. The front seal seems to be ok. Is the latex version softer than the EPDM or why is there such a big difference in the two that could cause an issue?

Once I get this one correct, I am starting on the passenger side. I will try your method on it.

Last edited by Shawnee; Nov 26, 2013 at 12:07 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 10:47 AM
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Did you use any syl-glide? If not, you can get some at napa.
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 10:56 AM
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Good info here. Just getting the nerve up to start my windows.
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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Did a search on Napa's site and did not find sly-glide. I am assuming this is some type of silicon based "lubricant" to put on the weatherstrip. If so, I have something already that I can try that Honda had for convertible top sealing.

Did notice this morning that after I left the door closed overnight the seal compressed enough to let the glass slide by and close up . I would assume leaving the glass down for awhile will let the seal expand again and then be back in the same situation.
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 12:56 PM
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by speedreed8
mine did the same thing when i replaced both entire regulators. on my 79, i ended up buying two suction cups with handles from harbor freight. rolled the window almost all the way up with the door open, stuck on the suction cups, loosened all the adjustment bolts, shut the door easy... rolled window up rest of the way, used the suction cups to put the glass where i wanted it. then had my son tighten the adjusment bolts inside. while i held it in place. both sides work great every time now.....
http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-cu...ter-46134.html
I did mine this way as well. Loosen everything, hold window in place and tighten back up. I thought I read here somewhere that that was the factory method.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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This sounds like very good advice, I also need to tackle this with my 77......... Thanks guys!
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