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How clean do things need to be for short block assembly? How clean am I shooting for, did GM build these in a room clean?
The block was scrubbed with hot soap and water multiple times after the machining and then dried and sprayed with wd40 and bores wiped with oil and bagged for years. The pistons and rings are new and the parts are clean.
The parts are not dusty, but having a light coat of oil on them, there may be a tiny dog hair here or there.
Im imagining a new engine with all the break-in metal material and then a stray bit of dust or few pieces of dog hair being caught in the filter.
i have been known to run parts through the dishwasher. when i clean the bores i take 1000 grit wet or dry paper with wd-40 then wash it down with mineral spirits then soap and water. the cleaner the better. stuff that looks clean out of the box isn't. good luck.
By far the biggest disaster with home rebuilds id the frailer to clean parts good enough. They can never be to clean. As mentioned above don't be afraid to run parts threw the dishwasher with WD 40 right after, then Zip-Lock. Take some ATF on a paper towel and whip the Cylinder Bores.( paper towels leave lint behind so they can't be used for final cleaning, they make Engine assembly Towels) I'll bet its comes back so dirty that You will want to start all over cleaning. When ever You stop assembly for a bit cover the whole project with a Garbage Bag.
The pistons have been cleaned enough to apply ceramic coating to the tops and dry film to the skirts.
An alcohol soaked white towel on the bores came back the color of the motor oil I coated them with the first round and clean the second round.
I will give the block another once over with brake cleaner to remove any debris that accumulated during the pre-assembly fitting and hit each bore again just before the piston goes in, this time with lint free.
I can clean each piston assm. again just before installing it with mineral spirits and brake cleaner.
Check out these guys, not even a drip pan under the motor... Clearly I need to have a shop clean-up weekend first, then begin final assembly.
The block is where most of the dirt/debris comes from.
First, check to see that all your galley plugs are out.
Buy a cheap rifle cleaning kit and run appropriate brushes through every one of the oil galleys. Scrub good, sludge can accumulate in the passages and won't come out without physical agitation. WD-40 everything, then take it back to the machine shop for a final wash (you're probably going to get crap on clean parts when you scrub galleys) and have them install all the appropriate plugs.
Nope. Engines used new parts and new (freshly machined) castings, but they were produced on an assembly line. Flint put out about 5500 new engines every working day.
Just clean it well checking the difficult locations to get to. It's not a heart transplant, so you don't have to sterilize the thing.
Exactly.
Note that the bearings need special attention - they need to be clean, clean, CLEAN...on both sides and where they're fitted. When you begin final ***'y, make sure you clean the bearing location, the back of the bearing and the bearing face with brake cleaner...and don't let stuff sit before ***'y: clean it, lube it, install it!
The pistons have been cleaned enough to apply ceramic coating to the tops and dry film to the skirts.
An alcohol soaked white towel on the bores came back the color of the motor oil I coated them with the first round and clean the second round.
I will give the block another once over with brake cleaner to remove any debris that accumulated during the pre-assembly fitting and hit each bore again just before the piston goes in, this time with lint free.
I can clean each piston assm. again just before installing it with mineral spirits and brake cleaner.
Check out these guys, not even a drip pan under the motor... Clearly I need to have a shop clean-up weekend first, then begin final assembly.
ok,where and what eng assembly is this?,could the ''R'' on the screens and shirts be ''roush'' ?
It may not need to be surgically sterile, but it damned sure needs to be clean. I've seen several "new" rebuilds that had to be completely redone because of dirt/debris damage to new bearings.
This is your baby's heart, not a set of tires.
The pistons have been cleaned enough to apply ceramic coating to the tops and dry film to the skirts.
An alcohol soaked white towel on the bores came back the color of the motor oil I coated them with the first round and clean the second round.
I will give the block another once over with brake cleaner to remove any debris that accumulated during the pre-assembly fitting and hit each bore again just before the piston goes in, this time with lint free.
I can clean each piston assm. again just before installing it with mineral spirits and brake cleaner.
Check out these guys, not even a drip pan under the motor... Clearly I need to have a shop clean-up weekend first, then begin final assembly.
That's a pretty nice shop you've got there, John...........