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The only way IMHO is to start at #1 TDC.
Lash that cylinder.
Mark the balancer at 90 degree intervals......the next 90 will be TDC#8...then TDC#4 then go through the rest of the firing order.
All of the other method are either too tricky or not good enough.
Go to the track and see how they do it...
The valve HAS to be closed at TDC.....this is the definite basecircle of the cam.
Others have debated that the lash goes wider as it comes on to the ramp.....that is just not so....
I have ran many cams...roller or not...through a Cam Doctor for specs. The basecircle is the basecircle.
if you are on #1 cylinder ,#8 and #6 push rods will be up ,and #5 will have a push rod sitting low .if you are on cylinder #6 ,#1 and #5 will have both push rods up ,and #8 will have a push rod sitting low .if you are on #1 cylinder ,and your distributor rotor is correct ,you can mark the other cylinder positions on the base of the distributor .
And this is where I start getting confused. Lol.
Ok so if right now the marks are dot to dot where am I at? Btw like I mentioned the lifters on #1 are both down and the #1 cylinder is tdc. Would pics help?
I thought I understood it from billa but other input (which I appreciate) are kind of contradictory
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by 75sl48
And this is where I start getting confused. Lol.
Ok so if right now the marks are dot to dot where am I at? Btw like I mentioned the lifters on #1 are both down and the #1 cylinder is tdc. Would pics help?
I thought I understood it from billa but other input (which I appreciate) are kind of contradictory
If timing marks are dot to dot even though both #1 and #6 are at TDC, #1 is in overlap - meaning lifters are not on the base circle. While #6 is ready for compustion and both valves should be closed - those lifters are on base circle.
U dont seem to be able to recognize this for some reason. Maybe u put a Ford engine in your corvette? Did u buy the car with or without a motor? Have u ever driven this car?
cardo0
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Dec 6, 2013 at 04:11 PM.
Reason: unnecessary comment removed
Dot to dot....TDC on #6
Both dots up TDC #1.
Cam rotates 1/2 crank speed and there are a square
number of cylinders.
Do #1 TDC first.
Rotate the crank every 90 degrees to get the next cylinder
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
In this order each successive cylinder will be at TDC.
It is easy and effective as you do both valves on that cylinder.
Lot less chance to miss one.
Oh...FYI....ever multi cylinder on the planet can be done the TDC method.
Anyone else who is doing it another way is thinking about it too hard.
It is even easier to do with the intake off...you can see the lifters.
Try it....if you do the procedure correctly....it is forever.
Read this link I posted.http://www.centuryperformance.com/va...procedure.html
It will clear things up for you.It's a simple procedure not difficult at all. Crank dot at 12 o'clock cam dot at 6 will be cyl #6 firing position. Crank dot at 12 cam dot at 12 will be cyl #1 firing position,you will set your dist to fire # 1 position. When you spin the crank you'll see how the intake valve will close just before that cylinder is set to fire.This will follow the engines firing order, 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2..Actually spark will occur before TDC,depends where you set your timing when tuning the engine..Hope this clears it up for u...
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Last edited by iokepakai; Dec 6, 2013 at 03:59 AM.
The only addition is yes the EOIC is a way to go where you are not worried about TDC, seeing the wrong mark on the balancer or risking which valve is what cyl and intake or exhaust are easy to find which one feeds or is fed by intake or exh manifold. This is helps someone that has not done this a lot of times.
I have used all methods successfully, but found taking an old valve cover and cutting a window out of the top and doing the valves with the engine running gets them right on. You can observe the valve action (hook up a timing light to a cyl and watch), see problems and it is not messy. If unfamiliar go to You Tube and search for adjusting valves and there are numberous videos on this task. Oh, I know the negatives of "you did not hear the clacking right or you turned too far" but it works fine for me.
[U]I have used all methods successfully, but found taking an old valve cover and cutting a window out of the top and doing the valves with the engine running gets them right on. You can observe the valve action (hook up a timing light to a cyl and watch), see problems and it is not messy. If unfamiliar go to You Tube and search for adjusting valves and there are numberous videos on this task. Oh, I know the negatives of "you did not hear the clacking right or you turned too far" but it works fine for me.
For clarification, this method (engine running) can only be used for adjsting hydraulic camshafts. For solid lifter camshafts it wont work.
Last edited by 71454Chevelle; Dec 6, 2013 at 07:50 AM.
With the engine in position of #1 cylinder at TDC, adjust:
Intakes 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhausts 1, 3, 4, 8
Turn crankshaft one full revolution clockwise, and with #6 cylinder at TDC, adjust:
Intakes 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhausts 2, 5, 6, 7
If you install the cam dot-to-dot, wouldn't it be better to start there? What I mean is, do the 3, 4, 6, 8 intakes and the 2, 5, 6, 7, exhausts, then spin the engine one revolution, so #1 piston is at TDC compression stroke, (dots at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clockand) and do the 1, 2, 5, 7 intakes, and the 1, 3, 4, 8 exhausts? It seems like you'd have to spin the engine one less time.
If you install the cam dot-to-dot, wouldn't it be better to start there? What I mean is, do the 3, 4, 6, 8 intakes and the 2, 5, 6, 7, exhausts, then spin the engine one revolution, so #1 piston is at TDC compression stroke, (dots at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clockand) and do the 1, 2, 5, 7 intakes, and the 1, 3, 4, 8 exhausts? It seems like you'd have to spin the engine one less time.
Scott
That's is great...but just spin it to one anyway...then go 90 degrees and lash each cylinder through the firing order.....it is foolproof.
You are not going to hurt it turning it by hand.
If your balancer is not on.....use a long ratchet to figure your 90 degrees.....you have to be close but there are a few degrees to play with either way if you are not on the money.
That's is great...but just spin it to one anyway...then go 90 degrees and lash each cylinder through the firing order.....it is foolproof.
You are not going to hurt it turning it by hand.
Jebby
It's indeed "foolproof", but my preference, if possible, is to do things as easily as possible. 40 years of working on cars has taught me this. Therefore, I prefer to get the engine at TDC #1, and do half the valves, then turn it over ONE time, and do the remainder...
I prefer to get the engine at TDC #1, and do half the valves, then turn it over ONE time, and do the remainder...
I've personally found the companion cylinder method to be very reliable, consistent and easy. I do recognize that it can be inaccurate for wild cams, but I rarely if ever touch anything over about 1.2 HP/CID. That may be why there's so much passion around the EOIC method, since it *always* works.
No wrong answers; my only "no" would be doing it while the engine's running because I've seen that consistently lead to too much preload...and it's a PITA
Regardless, I hope the OP has had enough guidance on this and everything's sorted out
Haven't had a chance to get it done yet but there is indeed enough guidance here for me to accomplish it. As to setting it with the engine running, a friend of mine does it that way. I wouldn't want to deal with the mess on freshly painted parts. Lol.
Haven't had a chance to get it done yet but there is indeed enough guidance here for me to accomplish it. As to setting it with the engine running, a friend of mine does it that way. I wouldn't want to deal with the mess on freshly painted parts. Lol.