Better Brake Calipers??
My Van Steel SS sleeved calipers work fine and provide plenty of stopping power for my street-driven C3. Van Steel set up my rear bear assemblies so run-out is well within tolerances.

plus you get a warranty, go this way if you are happy with stock. These are fixed calipers not floating like modern design. Rotor runout can be dialed in by shimming or rerivet and turn the whole assembly like the factory did. Looks like somebody would make a floating caliper for C3's, maybe it is out there?
From Summit Racing, as an example of just one vendor:
"When you need replacement calipers for your C2 or C3 Corvette, try on a set of Wilwood D8-4 brake calipers. Forged billet aluminum bodies, stainless steel pistons, and competition style high-temperature seals put an end to the rust, bore pitting, and seal failure. These calipers are direct bolt-on replacements for your factory original calipers mounting in the stock location over stock rotors using original-style brake pads. D8-4 calipers fit and install like stock--even the factory piston sizes were duplicated--but with Wilwood's in-house design and 3-D technology they offer lighter weight, unyielding strength and superior piston design to generate a positive pedal response with high clamping efficiency. The world of motion is yours--and your vette's-with the stopping power of Wilwood D8-4 front and rear brake calipers".
As for a reasonable price alternative to stock cast iron Stainless steel lined brakes with new lip seals or o ring seals, the wilwood D8-4/6 are definitely NOT-$365 a piece or $1,500 for 4 D8-4 calipers! Holy smokes!!
FWIW however nowhere in that description does it say anything about being superior to the iron part. I'll grant you it could make you think that... but it only states being a direct replacement and what makes it a good part. In short, it's really just a lot of fluff to fill a description as we well know. Highlighted is about all that is important. But that's pretty boring marketing huh?!
Price wise; who pays much for them? And remember it's also including pads and hoses in kit form. Yes however buying them singular is costly but really that's seldom the case. Be it as it may, I think they're a very viable alternative to the repairs of the iron parts.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1861





100% your stock brakes are more than needed for everyday driving, everyone puts then down but 4 piston calipers maintained in good condition unless you Mario Andretti and racing are almost overkill From Summit Racing, as an example of just one vendor:
"When you need replacement calipers for your C2 or C3 Corvette, try on a set of Wilwood D8-4 brake calipers. Forged billet aluminum bodies, stainless steel pistons, and competition style high-temperature seals put an end to the rust, bore pitting, and seal failure. These calipers are direct bolt-on replacements for your factory original calipers mounting in the stock location over stock rotors using original-style brake pads. D8-4 calipers fit and install like stock--even the factory piston sizes were duplicated--but with Wilwood's in-house design and 3-D technology they offer lighter weight, unyielding strength and superior piston design to generate a positive pedal response with high clamping efficiency. The world of motion is yours--and your vette's-with the stopping power of Wilwood D8-4 front and rear brake calipers".
As for a reasonable price alternative to stock cast iron Stainless steel lined brakes with new lip seals or o ring seals, the wilwood D8-4/6 are definitely NOT-$365 a piece or $1,500 for 4 D8-4 calipers! Holy smokes!!

Ask people like Todd on here and you'll get much better results.
The rotor run-out and bearing run-out are critical on Corvettes from 1965-1982.
Most mechanics who work on Corvettes all the time generally do not READ service manuals and they will "think" that the Corvette brake system from 1965-1982 is like any other car....and it is NOT.... and "they" will rarely if EVER use a dial indicator and check these critical tolerances.
I prefer using the lip seal calipers versus the "O" rings design. Installing an aftermarket caliper is up to you. If you go in with new calipers...I would advise installing a new master cylinder and washing/flushing out the brake lines very well....ESPECIALLY if the fluid is dark like coffee and the bottom of the master cylinder has sludge in it. New hoses also and keep up on the fluid and make sure that it does not go neglected...especially if you use DOT3.
DUB
I agree 100% with this statement! Might not be a caliper problem....classic sign of excessive rotor runout great answer
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Modern cars do not need machining after replacing rotors as the hub mating surface was finish machined to be perpendicular before the rotor was installed. Not true on C2/C3 Corvettes.
GM never sold a front rotor separate from the hub, only as an assembly.
Your comment about not separating them in the first place is correct.
yeah ...you can say that again. I have experienced it more times than i can remember.
modern cars do not need machining after replacing rotors as the hub mating surface was finish machined to be perpendicular before the rotor was installed. Not true on c2/c3 corvettes.
yep...gotta love the 83-82 corvette brake system.
gm never sold a front rotor separate from the hub, only as an assembly.
yes...i still have an original assembly still in the gm/delco box.
your comment about not separating them in the first place is correct.
yep...if i install new new front rotor and install the lug nuts and torque them as required. I check the run-out...and if it is way out...like it usually is...i remove the entire assemble and put it in my brake lathe and turn the rotor with the hub to get it right and re-check the run-out when it has been re-installed.








