I've been messing around with my doors and windows etc putting the 81 Project I bought back together. Working on door lock cylinder and the clip that holds the linkage from the handle came off. Cant find the clip so have to get another one. Continued working on lock mechanism, cleaning and lubing and pushed the mechanism closed. I would reopen it with the inside door handle and then close the latch in the mechanism again to kind of work the lube around a little better. Went to release the mechanism and it will not open. Not with interior or exterior handle. I pulled the inside handle and pried gently on the latch but it doesnt budge.
What in the hell did I do?

Thx

 

Never Mind. Got it open by pushing on flat bar on mechanism. Closed the door and the damned thing still wouldnt open. I guess I gotta take it off again and see wth is happening with it.

Thx

 

Here is the flat bar that I push up on to get the door to open. If the latch mechanism doesn't work is it the spring in the assembly or something else. I thought I had it but it no worky.


The second pic is of the bracket that holds the brake booster line. There is another cable alongside that has a square plastic fitting that appears to attach to the bracket. What is the cable for? Is it necessary? I'm assuming its the kickdown cable?


Thx again

 

When adjusting your rod from the outside door handle to the latch mechanism. YOU HAVE TO BE aware that with adjustment is somewhat precise. IF you extend the end down the rod too much and attach it. You can find that if you manually lock the latch mechanism...you will NOT be able to unlock it. This is due to pre-loading the linkage lever that the rod is attached to too much. Turn the end up a bit and re-try. You will know you have it correct when you can LOCK and UNLOCK the mechanism manually and NOT feel a step or bind when doing so.

PHOTO 2: You are missing the special bracket that hold the accelerator cable and the detent cable for the transmission....and also is used for the return springs for the carb.

One thing to be AWARE OF.....that if you use your door key to lock and unlock the door form the outside (naturally)...and it is really hard to do so. Disconnect the linkage for your inside lock rod from the latch and test again. If it just got really easy...you might want to buy new power door lock solenoids from Dorman and install them. IF you do get some new solenoids...manually feel them to make sure that the plunger moves without any effort...because your door key is turning all the "stuff" inside the door and if the parts aren't lubricated and the solenoid is not effortless to move the plunger...you can more than likely twist the lock cylinder in the door and you do not want that...or you can also begin to put wear marks on the lock cylinder where the metal pawl is attached and this is also problem.

DUB

 

I have the bracket. It appears that you have to remove the two rear left intake bolts to mount it. Not sure how cabling is attached.

 

It is pretty self-explanatory once you get the bracket mounted. The trans cable can only go in one of the spots in the bracket...and the accelerator cable will go in the one that keeps the cable in line with the carb linkage and also horizontally level.

DUB

 

Great, Thanks Dub. Do you happen to know the torque specs on the intake bolts?