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1971 corvette sm. block; can I install big block HD. Caps on stock small block stub axle .i wil try to beef up rear end to accept new 406" 480hp sm. block with turbo 400 trans..the gears are 355 in mint condition.is there a difference between sm block and big block stub axles other then the obvious hd. Caps?
The Big Block/LT-1 side yokes off the differential have forged caps that bolt on VS a weaker "U" bolt on the low HP cars (although my numbers matching 72 L-48 roadster has HD yokes on it....assembly line mistake?)
The prices for original GM caps are quite expensive, having just gone through this journey for a fellow CF member, I would look at buying a set of new GM Restoration Parts yokes/caps from a CF vendor.
Thanks for the quick response so I can use big block caps and grade 8 bolt and nut and discard base sm block straps. Would be just as strong as threaded yoke with bolt.
Oh man Willcox that info hurt! I am a senior citizen that does all his own labor on my vette. I lay on my back and remove that rear,changed gears from 3.08 to 3.55 and new seals,bearings,etc. I wish I knew the weak piece in the driveline was those yoke caps now the through of pulling that rear down on a cold concrete floor-------ugh! bTW is the yoke physically larger or is it just a larger threaded hole and bold. I could enlarge the hole in place and use the grade eight bolt and nut idea.
Oh man Willcox that info hurt! I am a senior citizen that does all his own labor on my vette. I lay on my back and remove that rear,changed gears from 3.08 to 3.55 and new seals,bearings,etc. I wish I knew the weak piece in the driveline was those yoke caps now the through of pulling that rear down on a cold concrete floor-------ugh! bTW is the yoke physically larger or is it just a larger threaded hole and bold. I could enlarge the hole in place and use the grade eight bolt and nut idea.
I am wondering if you have enough torque to hurt the strap type. TH400s are known to eat up a lot of power. The big HP/Torque guys will know the answer. mike...
They used to come with a drill, tap and tap handle. I also think the HD yoke units are a higher grade of steel? But someone else would have to answer that one! I am a little rusty on stock type parts. Those are all laying on the shelves replaced! Also on the caps (there are the strap style and then there are the truly heavy duty cap style ones). And even like Moroso sells aftermarket units. Also you might look into the Mark Williams Solid U-joints!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Dec 18, 2013 at 06:06 PM.
New 406" forged,roller motor,dart aluminum heads will put out 475hp around 485 lbs torque .a street use only so that's why I am concern with stub axle caps.
Captain bob... Run it the way it is....... You're not going to "enlarge" the hole and change it.. (unless your into complete demoralization.. You'll never enlarge the hole and tap it... The yokes are hardened, and you'll waste more time than you or I have).
Captain bob... Run it the way it is....... You're not going to "enlarge" the hole and change it.. (unless your into complete demoralization.. You'll never enlarge the hole and tap it... The yokes are hardened, and you'll waste more time than you or I have).
You can't get good old fashioned carbide taps anymore anyways at a reasonable price. It is all of this titanium home depot coated crap and stuff, foreign taps and stuff that won't cut anything hardened. PS usually hardened isn't thru the entire part, the process gets the top steel layers, so once you cut into it, you will be able to machine in threads!!!!!!!!
If you really want assurance, go to the Tom's Differential Idaho based companies website and buy axles from them like me!!!
But even the u-bolts will hold if carefully snugged equally and torqued to a respectful level of power and the halfshafts and such are in a good alignment to the axles. The caps and such are just insurance and allow you to hammer on it a bit more!
Last edited by TCracingCA; Dec 18, 2013 at 10:27 PM.
Thanks for the quick response so I can use big block caps and grade 8 bolt and nut and discard base sm block straps. Would be just as strong as threaded yoke with bolt.
It's been a while since I have posted on here, but after reading your posts, I highly recommend you dont use HD caps on U strap style yokes! It doesn't work.. For one thing the HD yokes are threaded, and the non HD are not. I went through this.
When I bought my 69, which is a numbers 427/435 car I learned that in its previous life before me, someone installed a replacement diff, assuming original unit was damaged or broken, at some point. The new replacement or warranty unit had small block yokes. They must of ordered the wrong one, when it was in for repair. Anyway it had the HD caps!!!! They had bolts going through both cap and yoke, and nuts on the other side, so not correct.. I found the caps on the U-joints walked around inside the yoke causing wear, and a failed U-joints on both sides. At the time I didnt know any better, so I replaced the u-joints, only to find after one summer of driving, they starrted to walk around again... Will post a pick later..
Thank you ever so much who would ever think the small block yoke with big block caps and thru bolts and nuts would be worse then leaving the cheap small block straps ,it makes o sense at all but your the man (seeing is believing ). My 406" will make a honest 480hp I can see this as the weakest link in the chain even with auto trans.
I would worry about the outer stubs, u-joints and halfshafts themselves long before I'd worry about those straps.
I've seen a lot of broken stuff under Vette's over the years, but not once have I personally seen a failed strap that didn't have something else happen first.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; Jan 1, 2014 at 07:15 PM.
I assume you are referring to the ends of the half shaft that holds the U joint ?? I guess you guys whom "stomp on it" with a four speed use the later year 3" shafts?
The order of issue is usually the u=joint (use solid Spicers), the outer stub axle itself where the bearings are (get good ones..not stock replacement- Tom's makes good ones), halfshafts. The 3" will be a little stronger...best is to get aftermarket made out of heavier wall tubing.Any local driveshaft shop can do it or there are several good places that pre=make them.
Traction is the problem..running street tires and spinning saves parts.
The order of issue is usually the u=joint (use solid Spicers), the outer stub axle itself where the bearings are (get good ones..not stock replacement- Tom's makes good ones), halfshafts. The 3" will be a little stronger...best is to get aftermarket made out of heavier wall tubing.Any local driveshaft shop can do it or there are several good places that pre=make them.
Traction is the problem..running street tires and spinning saves parts.
JIM
They say experience is the best teacher well you been around the block with c-3 driveline breakage that's for sure.thank you for the info. This is golden not obtainable unless you been there!----- thank you