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My 73 with the original 454 has the solenoid and needs it. Without it, she diesels. It's needed because in order to adjust to the correct idle speed, the primaries on the Q-Jet are open far enough to uncover the transition slots which means fuel is still pulled into the in hot chambers on shut down, which causes the dieseling.
This is interesting. So does the 73 QJ not have an idle circuit or is it just insuffecient to supply idle fuel? Or maybe the timing is so retarded per emissions control that it wants more fuel to idle properly. Anybody know the answer?
I can see where it might help if you're running an automatic, especially if your torque converter is a lower RPM set up. I wasn't really trying to argue about it.
Sorry man, I sent it to another member a few years back.
It's out of an '80 manual. I'm sure that if you want the perfect NCRS type '73, you have to have it. I just don't believe that you need it to have a good running car. Like I said, I can see where it would help, but believe that you can get by without it on a well tuned car.
That 1980 solenoid is not the same as the one on the early 70's vettes. The 70's solenoid will not bump up the throttle linkage by itself. It needs to have the throttle moved by the accelerator pedal, then it will move to the proper position. I use mine as a pseudo a/c bump up solenoid like the 1980 one must do. But if I turn on my a/c without blipping the throttle, the solenoid won't do anything. It's not strong enough to counter act the return spring and move up the throttle.
I think you are going to find out it depends on year, engine, and if it has fed or cal emissions. Like some one pointed out the best way toy tell is on the Emission lable
Whether you want it or not seems to me to be your choice. The factory chose to include it, which is why I did.
Thanks everybody for the details and info. Factory included it, so I'll probably try to get it hooked up again. If nothing else to see if it's better/worse/whatever. I found some write-up about it in the '73 Service Manual, which will help with the tuning of it.
AIM is the Assembly Manual, no? I never can find my way around that thing too well. If someone has the section/page reference that would be cool.
So about that tan wire...where does it come out of the wiring harness? I looked, but couldn't see anything obvious dangling there (would have been too easy, I know).
Thanks everybody for the details and info. Factory included it, so I'll probably try to get it hooked up again. If nothing else to see if it's better/worse/whatever. I found some write-up about it in the '73 Service Manual, which will help with the tuning of it.
AIM is the Assembly Manual, no? I never can find my way around that thing too well. If someone has the section/page reference that would be cool.
So about that tan wire...where does it come out of the wiring harness? I looked, but couldn't see anything obvious dangling there (would have been too easy, I know).
On my 72, it comes out of that big harness right under the wiper motor, with a few other wires.
Try pages 399 and 433 in the 73 AIM.
Not too detailed but the best that I could find.
Look at the wiring harness that comes out behind the wiper motor as described above.
There should be a brown/tan wire that comes out of it. That is the one on my 73.
Donnie
Last edited by DonnieP73; Dec 23, 2013 at 11:30 PM.
Try pages 399 and 433 in the 73 AIM.
Not too detailed but the best that I could find.
Look at the wiring harness that comes out behind the wiper motor as described above.
There should be a brown/tan wire that comes out of it. That is the one on my 73.
Donnie
Excellent - thanks Donnie & Gary! Because of your descriptions and p 399 I found this wire...nice-n-neatly tucked up and over the brake booster, tied down like it was supposed to be there. It even still has the ISS connector on it. I guess the previous owner made a conscious decision not to use it.
Excellent - thanks Donnie & Gary! Because of your descriptions and p 399 I found this wire...nice-n-neatly tucked up and over the brake booster, tied down like it was supposed to be there. It even still has the ISS connector on it. I guess the previous owner made a conscious decision not to use it.
...and thankfully, he decided not to CUT it. Too many PO's do cut them. Glad it's all working out for you.
I think you are going to find out it depends on year, engine, and if it has fed or cal emissions. Like some one pointed out the best way toy tell is on the Emission lable
I doubt the emissions label would mention this. The solenoid is not part of the anti-pollution set up, it's a drivability issue.
Was doing some reading last night on the Q-jet and it sounds to me like the 73 and some others does not have Idle air bypass passages.
So in order for it to idle the butterfly valve (throttle) has to be opened just a little to allow the idle passages to be exposed to vacuum to get idle fuel to flow to the engine. In hind sight I did remember reading about q-jets that didn't have idle bypass air passages in Cliff Ruggles' book, just didn't pay much attention since it didn't apply to mine at the time.
The q-jet can be modded to have idle bypass air added if a guy wanted to eliminate the solenoid.
Maybe this has been done to yours Johnnybrewmeister. How well does it idle without the solenoid?
Was doing some reading last night on the Q-jet and it sounds to me like the 73 and some others does not have Idle air bypass passages.
So in order for it to idle the butterfly valve (throttle) has to be opened just a little to allow the idle passages to be exposed to vacuum to get idle fuel to flow to the engine. In hind sight I did remember reading about q-jets that didn't have idle bypass air passages in Cliff Ruggles' book, just didn't pay much attention since it didn't apply to mine at the time.
The q-jet can be modded to have idle bypass air added if a guy wanted to eliminate the solenoid.
Maybe this has been done to yours Johnnybrewmeister. How well does it idle without the solenoid?
Way over my head with the carb details, and the PO was less of a car-guy than me, so I doubt anything modded, but you never know. I've been driving it this way for 13+ years, never really had any idle issues, never dieseled not even once. If anything it idles a bit fast I'd say, lo-n-slow when first started (nice blop-blop-blop sound).
The 73 and 74 cars (among others) were designed to run with NO vacuum advance at idle, for emissions. Vacuum advance was enabled only on third and forth gear(for manual trans cars), or high gear only (for automatics). GM called it TCS, for Transmission Controlled Spark.
To get a decent idle speed with very little ignition advance, the throttle plates had to be cracked open quite a bit. This can allow the engine to run on, especially on hot days. If you have modified your engine to run full time distributor vacuum advance, the solonoid is no longer needed , because the throttle butterflies will be very nearly closed.
Last edited by gcusmano74; Dec 26, 2013 at 09:44 PM.
I think that part of the confusion is caused by the function being year specific. In my 81 the solenoid was activated when the A/C was turned on. On my 73, the solenoid is activated when you turn the ignition on. It's referred to on the 73 as an anti-dieseling solenoid. Essentially the same part with a different function, though functioning in the same manner.
The 73 and 74 cars (among others) were designed to run with NO vacuum advance at idle, for emissions. Vacuum advance was enabled only on third and forth gear(for manual trans cars), or high gear only (for automatics). GM called it TCS, for Transmission Controlled Spark.
To get a decent idle speed with very little ignition advance, the throttle plates had to be cracked open quite a bit. This can allow the engine to run on, especially on hot days. If you have modified your engine to run full time distributor vacuum advance, the solonoid is no longer needed , because the throttle butterflies will be very nearly closed.
Ahh, so GM created the problem with early emission efforts. That combined with the design of the carb gave poor idle performance and the solenoid was the fix. Cool info.
I think you are going to find out it depends on year, engine, and if it has fed or cal emissions. Like some one pointed out the best way toy tell is on the Emission lable
BTW, now that I've re-read the emissions label...I didn't know I was supposed to run 91 octane! Anybody else run super in these old cars?!?!
Out here in SoCal I run the cheapest 87 I can find.
Does it matter?
It wouldn't hurt to pour a bottle of Lucas fuel treatment(injector cleaner) in your fuel tank on your carbed engine at every oil change to keep crud from building up in the combustion chambers.
BTW, now that I've re-read the emissions label...I didn't know I was supposed to run 91 octane! Anybody else run super in these old cars?!?!
Out here in SoCal I run the cheapest 87 I can find.
Does it matter?
Only if it pings on regular. If it doesn't ping, you're fine.
...I never can find my way around that thing too well...
You haven't looked through it often enough. The more you use it, the easier it becomes to find things. Pick a quiet time; get the FCB of your choice, sit down, and page through the AIM looking at the diagrams, reading the Notes, etc. In an hour, you can go from front to back.
BTW, now that I've re-read the emissions label...I didn't know I was supposed to run 91 octane! Anybody else run super in these old cars?!?!
Out here in SoCal I run the cheapest 87 I can find.
Does it matter?
Here's another common point of confusion. The octane rating scale in North America changed in the mid-70s. The old system rated fuel by Research Octane Number (RON), the new system by Anti Knock Index (AKI).
91 RON (as mentioned in your manual) is the same as 87 AKI.
All Corvettes from '71 onwards were federally mandated to run on regular gas. That's why the compression ratios dropped substantially and ignition curves became so conservative.