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Choosing a cam for my engine?

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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 11:16 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Dy...62H-10_001.asp
The above lists vacuum. Operating range is 1300-5600. Should pull hard from just off idle to redline. My guess is you have a vacuum leak as your readings are quite a bit lower than the chart shows they should be.

I have ex 262 on 112 lsa and I have 14" vacuum so I think your in the money. I don't know how comp came up with those 17" vacuum numbers. It doesn't mark sense to me. My ex 268 makes 13" on 110 lsa. All in a 355cid
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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I have ex 262 on a 112 lsa and I have 14" reading. I believe your in the money. My ex 268 pulls 12" on a 110 lsa. I not sure how comp came up with a 17" reading. All in a 355 CID .
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Corvette400hp
I have ex 262 on 112 lsa and I have 14" vacuum so I think your in the money. I don't know how comp came up with those 17" vacuum numbers. It doesn't mark sense to me. My ex 268 makes 13" on 110 lsa. All in a 355cid
Maybe you need to do some tuning?

I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist!

Scott
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #64  
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OP found a vacuum leak and bumped vac from 13 to 16HG.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 11:12 PM
  #65  
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Just as another update, I installed a new holley 670 street avenger carb and switched the vacuum advance e from ported vacuum over to manifold vacuum (as recommended by a local engine builder) and my vacuum came up even more to a steady 17-18 now I'm just going to wait a couple weeks until the snow melts to test everything and tune the carb just right. OH!! I also installed a Transgo 1&2 reprogramming kit and I did get to test it and may I say, so far I'm loving it! Although I haven't really felt wot yet since the roads are so cold and it just breaks loose in every gear. This is going to be a loonngg wait
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 12:14 AM
  #66  
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Sounds like your close to all sorted out. Make sure you report back on how it works.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 06:52 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Conrad Celinski
Just as another update, I installed a new holley 670 street avenger carb and switched the vacuum advance e from ported vacuum over to manifold vacuum (as recommended by a local engine builder) and my vacuum came up even more to a steady 17-18 now I'm just going to wait a couple weeks until the snow melts to test everything and tune the carb just right. OH!! I also installed a Transgo 1&2 reprogramming kit and I did get to test it and may I say, so far I'm loving it! Although I haven't really felt wot yet since the roads are so cold and it just breaks loose in every gear. This is going to be a loonngg wait
glad its working out
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 12:01 AM
  #68  
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Yup yup I have mostly everything done to make it a good driver. Now to just install the fiberglass spring to help with the rear ride height and comfort.

I have an ongoing question about heads though. I will be wanting to upgrade my heads within a month or two and I just need to figure out what will be better for me. I'm trying to decide between aluminum heads with 64cc chambers and aluminums with 58cc chambers. Will the 58cc heads have any cons? The 58cc heads I can get with 210cc intake runners. The 64s come in either 190s or 210. I just need some clarification over the previous responses about heads.
I have no problem running a higher octane up to 93 if necessary. anything more is a no no.. I really want to get my car at least into the 13s for now. I'm deciding between aluminums because I really like the reduced weight over iron heads. And I'm not too worried about possible accidental overheating and warping them because I have went through and upgraded my cooling system and I'm always watching the temperature.

I'm really learning through all of this, especially with the advice and help you guys are giving me
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 01:35 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Conrad Celinski
Yup yup I have mostly everything done to make it a good driver. Now to just install the fiberglass spring to help with the rear ride height and comfort.

I have an ongoing question about heads though. I will be wanting to upgrade my heads within a month or two and I just need to figure out what will be better for me. I'm trying to decide between aluminum heads with 64cc chambers and aluminums with 58cc chambers. Will the 58cc heads have any cons? The 58cc heads I can get with 210cc intake runners. The 64s come in either 190s or 210. I just need some clarification over the previous responses about heads.
I have no problem running a higher octane up to 93 if necessary. anything more is a no no.. I really want to get my car at least into the 13s for now. I'm deciding between aluminums because I really like the reduced weight over iron heads. And I'm not too worried about possible accidental overheating and warping them because I have went through and upgraded my cooling system and I'm always watching the temperature.

I'm really learning through all of this, especially with the advice and help you guys are giving me
The 58 cc 210 heads are a poor choice. To big of ports will kill your bottom end torque. With your build specs, cam and redline a set of 180 64 CC would be best. I would avoid the procomp heads. To many horror stories or having to do extensive work on them to get them to work. These are from a forum members business with a good reputation here and great flow numbers for the money. http://www.straubtechnologies.com/st...lunimum-heads/
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
The 58 cc 210 heads are a poor choice. To big of ports will kill your bottom end torque. With your build specs, cam and redline a set of 180 64 CC would be best. I would avoid the procomp heads. To many horror stories or having to do extensive work on them to get them to work. These are from a forum members business with a good reputation here and great flow numbers for the money. http://www.straubtechnologies.com/st...lunimum-heads/
Alright thank you for clarifying that, I was wondering if the larger ports would kill power even though they're smaller chambers. And I have read a lot about procomp heads and am staying away from them. And thats an amazing price! Is that for a pair of heads? The description doesn't give too much info. Is there a thread on here reviewing them?
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 01:53 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Conrad Celinski
Alright thank you for clarifying that, I was wondering if the larger ports would kill power even though they're smaller chambers. And I have read a lot about procomp heads and am staying away from them. And thats an amazing price! Is that for a pair of heads? The description doesn't give too much info. Is there a thread on here reviewing them?
Email Chris, price is for a pair. The Dart SHP is a good head too but the price has gone up a lot on them. Seems all the $8-900 heads are $1000-1100 now and the heads that were $1100-1200 are $1500. AFR heads are still $1500 and a bargain at that price if they are in your budget.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:18 AM
  #72  
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I second Chris for the heads. Make sure you call him over email (trust me on this). He will take care of you and get you set up.

...By the way, with the snow we have been getting, you wonder if spring is ever gonna get here!!!
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 10:58 AM
  #73  
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Ask about angle plugs or straight plugs. Your needs will depend on your exhaust.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 05:59 PM
  #74  
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If you really want the car to ET as good as possible, you need to maximize the launch. You've got 3.73 gears, that's good. Put in a 2,800 or 3,000 stall converter, a line lock and a set of drag radials and, with the XE262 cam, you should get well into the 13s assuming everything is set up properly (carb, ignition etc).
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