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Have you finalized your build yet? You may have mentioned it but what carb are you going to be running ? Are you going to get it dyno'd once you have put it all together? I am sure that there are quite a few here looking fwd to seeing/hearing the results on your build.
Have you finalized your build yet? You may have mentioned it but what carb are you going to be running ? Are you going to get it dyno'd once you have put it all together? I am sure that there are quite a few here looking fwd to seeing/hearing the results on your build.
No, not yet. I just got my AFR 180 heads today, so will be installing them this weekend. Its going to be awhile before I run, as the body off restoration still in work. Unfortunately, I doubt if I ever dyno it, unless I come across a chassis dyno with the finished car. I am content in believing what Billa says, that I should be around 400-420 HP.
Thanks for the pictures, your doing a fine job on that!
I do notice that the exhaust closest to the steering box turns down quicker coming out of the head, allowing more clearance. I don't believe the Hedman headers do this, so it make me wonder if it runs closer to the steering box. Maybe that is why Hooker did what they did. If anyone runs the Hedmans, I would like to hear from you on this.
Thanks for the pictures, your doing a fine job on that!
I do notice that the exhaust closest to the steering box turns down quicker coming out of the head, allowing more clearance. I don't believe the Hedman headers do this, so it make me wonder if it runs closer to the steering box. Maybe that is why Hooker did what they did. If anyone runs the Hedmans, I would like to hear from you on this.
No steering clearance issues with Hedmann 68301 or 68300 (small block chevy). I did not have to dimple or dent to install in my '80 L48.
Within your list of heads, I'd go with the 65cc AFR heads with 1.43" dual spring pkg for your roller cam. If it were me, I would go with DART Iron Eagle 180cc heads, 65cc chamber, straight plugs. They flow exceptionally well and will compliment your XE270HR roller cam. No need to go DART PRO. Painted, they don't look a lot different from GM castings. Perimeter bolts for valve covers too. I run 1.52 ratio Comp Ultra Pro Magnum rockers with the Comp 1.43" dual spring kit from my K-Kit. I have Hedmann #68301 headers with Jet-Hot coating in/out. 12 years and counting on this set of headers with coating.
I agree with your need to keep the appearance period-correct. I'm not interested in center-bolt valve covers/heads. I like what I grew up with in 1970-85.
I would bet that the iron eagles don't flow as well as the afr's the op has already bought. But with out a flow bench and both heads I could be wrong.
This is what drives me crazy as an amateur in knowing what is correct. Everything I read is that 0.040 is the best quench, and nowhere do I see anything about this being too tight for street and carbon buildup, etc.
Billa, Mako, and all engine experts, please weigh in on this. I could replace the Felprop 1094 0.015 gasket with a Felpro 0.026 gasket, to increase quench up to 0.051.
I usually don't comment on engine builds because it is a waste of my time (the builder goes on his merry way)
I have rebuilt a bunch of performance motors. One thing I consistently see in higher compression, smaller quench, and modern combustions chambers engines is:
When you pull the heads off the piston tops are nearly carbon free except for the outer edges where the piston is cooler and out of the jet blasts from the quench area.
So the lack of quench and compression causes carbon build up in non-performance motors.
I had headman 1 5/8th on my original 355 ci Once you start exceeding 425 hp it is time to move up to 1 3/4.
Aluminum heads need exhaust ARP studs 3/8th universal kit
Although, for the price of my DARTs, very respectable performance compared to the pricier aluminum AFR's and very impressed to see how DART stacks up to the other 180-195cc (excluding the larger runner) heads in the test... most that cost more too.
I paid $1,100 delivered for my DARTs back around Y2K.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I dont know what cam, heads, headers will work the best here but thats a awesome bottom end to start with and worth some expensive parts. It will be fun to drive and as fast as any new corvette.
All i know now is Colts are making a comeback and within 3 after 28 points behind.
I had headman 1 5/8th on my original 355 ci Once you start exceeding 425 hp it is time to move up to 1 3/4.
Aluminum heads need exhaust ARP studs 3/8th universal kit
Thanks for commenting. I had not thought about studs for the exhaust, so I will look into that. If you use studs, are there any problems, for example, I assume there is still enough clearance that you can removed the headers with the engine installed??
I installed the AFR heads today, and I must say they are a work of art. I am always a believer in you get what you pay for, and they already have made me feel good, without even turning the starter!
Thanks for commenting. I had not thought about studs for the exhaust, so I will look into that. If you use studs, are there any problems, for example, I assume there is still enough clearance that you can removed the headers with the engine installed??
Before this thread fades away, I am thinking a Holley Street Avenger carb for this build, trying to decide between 670 versus 770 cfm AND whether its worth stepping up to the Ultra model???
Use this. Figure 5500 RPM redline, Street only, remember your intended use, Read and answer the questions carefully. Get the right selection for your use. Smaller carbs that meet your needs also offer better throttle response. A bigger that required carb will get you better high RPM power. http://holley.com/applications/Carbu...bSelection.asp
You'll be making around 1.2 HP/CID with relatively high VE. Given that, I would tend towards the 670 for strictly a street build. The regular SA is fine for your application.
Now...one other item I'd like to take a swing at is your observation that you hadn't planned to go to the dyno. Getting a good dyno tune is one of the best investments you can make and ensures that the engine is delivering what it's capable of. You can certainly do some money runs at the end of the session for bragging rights, but the investment in a good tune is about getting the timing and A/F ratio dialed in across the operating range.
You'll be making around 1.2 HP/CID with relatively high VE. Given that, I would tend towards the 670 for strictly a street build. The regular SA is fine for your application.
Now...one other item I'd like to take a swing at is your observation that you hadn't planned to go to the dyno. Getting a good dyno tune is one of the best investments you can make and ensures that the engine is delivering what it's capable of. You can certainly do some money runs at the end of the session for bragging rights, but the investment in a good tune is about getting the timing and A/F ratio dialed in across the operating range.
I can see myself taking the car to a dyno, but I will have to find one in the Pittsburgh area I can trust.