Hi everyone, I keep blowing wiper fuses. I thought it was because of my wiper switch but the problem persists despite a brand new switch. I am pretty sure it is the intermittent wiper module that is behind the passengers seat in the storage compartment. I want to bypass it to confirm this is the issue.

Ecklers sell this override jumper



and i wanted to replicate it. Has anyone got it? I would love to see a picture of the back to understand how it works. It seems that there are 5 spades left but only 2 wires jumping.... Has anyone done this? I live in europe and don't want to wait 15 days for delivery for something i could easily recreate...

Many thanks!!

George

 

Failing that - if anyone knows of a way of testing the original module that would also be great!!! I've looked online but can't find a way of troubleshooting it..

 

If you have a volt/ohm meter...and a wiring diagram...you can figure it out fairly easily.

Have you "bench tested your wiper motor???? ....to make sure it will work and the problem is not internally in it.

It is easy to do with some wiring and connectors..

If it checks out OK...then knowing how it works can allow you to figure out the circuits needed to add and remove the ground needed to make the wiper motor work.

Out on yoru wiper motor you have a terminal connector with 3 wires in it. Then you also have a black wire by itself...which is the ground.

So if you check to make sure your motor is grounded...and it is.

Then the 3 wire terminal connector is where you go next. The CENTER terminal in it is the power from your fuse....and should be yellow. The OUTER terminals are used to apply and remove GROUND to make the motor go into PARK, LOW and HIGH speeds.

SO if you get a wire and connect it to 12 volt power and put a fuse in-line in the wire and connect it to the CENTER terminal spade connector ON THE MOTOR...you can then take 2 wires that are GROUNDED to the engine somewhere.

I am not at work so I do not know the EXACT sequence...but I know it works this way.

Three are 3 sequences to make the motor EITHER go into PARK, LOW and HIGH speeds

If one terminal on the motor is grounded...it will do something ( depending on if the motor is already in PARK...while that ground is still attached...and you add the other ground wire and attach it to the other terminal connector...the motor will do "something"...and when you REMOVE the first ground wire you attached...the motor will do something. SO you basically ONLY have 3 options. The ONE terminal grounded...then BOTH OUTER terminals grounded...then REMOVE the FIRST wire you attached and leave the last one you attached connected.

Once you know how it works...you can then move the wiper switch with the intermittent connector removed and find the terminals that change in ground. Then using a ohm meter...you can find the wires that go from the controller to the wiper motor and know how to jump them.

Hopefully this helps...if not hopefully someone can show you exactly how to get it like the photo you posted.

DUB

 

Hi Dub - many thanks for your help!!!

I have managed to track down a photo of the back of that jumper and recreated it. If anyone is interested this is what the back looks like.



So essentially you are shorting the pink with the pink and black wire and the live (brown/white with the brown(ish) wire).

and this is the wiring diagram for the 81 wipers.



I've tested the motor with 12V from an external battery and it performs as it should. Also the ground on the terminal connecting to the motor is good (checked with a multimeter) showing 0.002.

The ground going into the switch (black wire) is also good yet the fuses still keep popping!

My next guess is that one of the cables must be nicked between the wiper module and the switch... Any other thoughts? Could my new repro switch be faulty?

 

FWIW, I also had problems with my 82 wiper module, as it went bad and was extremely hot to the touch whether in use or not. At the time the replacement modules were all defective and had to be returned to the manufacture to correct the issue. That has since been done and they have been available for awhile now. I had sent out my original to be upgraded to modern specs at the time, and it works great now.
I know you are trying to figure out the problem with either your module and or switch, just wanted to let you know that when the system is right, it works very well, especially if its your "dd" all year long.......Tom

 

You have the answer in what you posted. The page out of the book. I...many, many, many times have to check each and every circuit when the components are disconnected so I can see if a wire is grounded or not. I would suggest that. Because if you do not...and buy another switch...it could be all for nothing.

YES...the switch could be bad. Also I can look to see if I have the wiring for a non-delay motor.

DUB