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I just put a new outer rubber seal on my drivers door, and now my window wont roll up. It's never worked very well, had to help it the last couple of inches. Now with the new rubber pushing against it, it only goes up about half way.
It seems like the motor is not strong enough to do the job, is there anyway to test it?
thanks.
- Jay
I've had this problem also, it seems the outer window felt should only be replaced with the "fuzzy" one, the smooth rubber ones cause the window to bind.
I've had this problem also, it seems the outer window felt should only be replaced with the "fuzzy" one, the smooth rubber ones cause the window to bind.
ugh
I'll loosen the adjustment bolts and see if that will help, I don't think its so far out of adjustment that its binding.
Oh, that, I'll take a look see.
I loosened everything and removed the rattle pads, now the window goes most of the way up with the door open, about halfway with the door closed.
I'm afraid there is a combination of things going on, Chinese weatherstripping, worn parts etc. I also just noticed the door wriggles up and down when I lift it, looks like bad hinge pin bushings. Need to fix that now before final alignment.
Stay tuned.
Okay, found 2 more screws to loosen, window goes all the way up now with door open.
Battery just died so no more testing today.
Thanks for all the responses so far!
Last edited by psycho dad; Dec 31, 2013 at 02:12 PM.
Thanks for the article Frank. I actually changed the regulator gear when I first bought the car 4 years ago. I'm a little fuzzy on the details now, but it was frustrating because you can't see or reach anything.
Right now the door is off the car waiting for a new set of hinge pins.
The ones I bought from NAPA were too long so I cut them to length, but I could not hammer them into place. The splines right under the heads would not pass into the holes in the hinge. Hopefully a set of GM hinge pins will work better.
I decided to take a couple of days off from this job because thing went so poorly. The PO welded a small bump onto the pin just below the top bushing for some reason. It looked like part of the bushing so I kept beating on the pin trying to get it to pass through the hole. I finally cut the pin out with an angle grinder, and when I couldn't get the new pin seated I just walked away. When I in went to order new pins and found out there is a $16 shipping charge in a $12 set of pins I said screw it and didn't order them. Its been a few days and now I think I'm ready to jump back in. All I wanted to do is replace my window rubbers, but as usual it's snowballing into something much bigger.
Thanks for the article Frank. I actually changed the regulator gear when I first bought the car 4 years ago. I'm a little fuzzy on the details now, but it was frustrating because you can't see or reach anything.
Right now the door is off the car waiting for a new set of hinge pins.
The ones I bought from NAPA were too long so I cut them to length, but I could not hammer them into place. The splines right under the heads would not pass into the holes in the hinge. Hopefully a set of GM hinge pins will work better.
I decided to take a couple of days off from this job because thing went so poorly. The PO welded a small bump onto the pin just below the top bushing for some reason. It looked like part of the bushing so I kept beating on the pin trying to get it to pass through the hole. I finally cut the pin out with an angle grinder, and when I couldn't get the new pin seated I just walked away. When I in went to order new pins and found out there is a $16 shipping charge in a $12 set of pins I said screw it and didn't order them. Its been a few days and now I think I'm ready to jump back in. All I wanted to do is replace my window rubbers, but as usual it's snowballing into something much bigger.
The welded bump was probably a stop so the door does not open too far. Common fix for a bent hinge.
While you are in the doors pull the motors out & apart & clean out the old grease, then wind the starter motor motor over while you re grease the drive gear. Then put it together & spin it some more before you refit it. (I use a battery charger to wind it over on the bench). -I started with one stuck window & one super slow, now they could both power ejection seats.
while you are cleaning and greasing make sure you lube the hinged areas.
What is the best way to clean out the window tracks before applying new lube? Whats the best lube to use?
I remove them (the tracks) and use a solvent (lacquer thinner...because I have it on hand all the time) or a good greaser...to get the old grease out...and then lube them again.