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Ok I have a 1977 late model and am adding a few new components that need power. So I need some recommendations on where to splice in these components. Ive only found a few post on here about these upgrades with conflicting advise on where to run them.
So here we go
1. duel electric radiator fans
2. electric choke
3. electric drivers side seat
4. electric fuel pump
Ok I have a 1977 late model and am adding a few new components that need power. So I need some recommendations on where to splice in these components. Ive only found a few post on here about these upgrades with conflicting advise on where to run them.
So here we go
1. duel electric radiator fans....get 12V from fuse block terminal that is hot when key is in "RUN" position
2. electric choke...get 12V from different fuse block terminal that is hot with key in "RUN" position.
3. electric drivers side seat...get 12V power ffrom fuse block at accessory fuse location.
4. electric fuel pump...get 12V from fuse block terminal that is hot with key in "RUN" position.
Each component should be connected to an individual relay to ensure full voltage is reaching the component (except the electric choke). Main power source can come from 10 gauge wire from battery lug on starter solenoid which has a 60 amp in-line fuse and the other end of 10 gauge wire is connected to a multi-terminal block mounted on the firewall. All relays should receive "power out to component " from this multi-terminal.
Thanks in advance for your recommendations
...
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 8, 2014 at 01:13 AM.
I agree with the above.... with maybe the exception of the choke the other 3 items are heavy motors that were never expected to be powered by the original harness in the car.
You need something like the above item to feed these items directly from the battery. I would not feed any of these except for the choke off of your current fuse panel. Just my $.02.
I ran a separate terminal block off of the main battery lead from the starter up to the firewall to feed my fans and any other items using fuses and relays so as not to overrun the factory harness. Especially with all the fuse able links in the factory harness.
Most options added to the vette had a separate harness and were thought out prior so the fuse panel could accommodate them. My 69 was bare bones and the main interface being the horn relay buss was good for small things but I wanted plenty of power for my fans and I did not want to rely on the fuseable links or the 10awg single wire off the alternator feeding two massive fans.
Last edited by mysixtynine; Jan 8, 2014 at 01:55 PM.
x2
I also opted for a seperate fuse box from painless to power all add-ons. Powered directly from the battery!
More wiring to do but you don't have to worry about extra strain on the original harness
Nick
You guys said it better than I did.....I didn't make it clear that the OEM fuse block could be used ONLY to power the relay switch-itself.......
The relay-power TO the component should always come from a heavy-gage fused wire using the battery or battery-at-the-solenoid as the source of power through the output terminal on the relay.
Whose block is this (the olive-colored one) -- mfr & P/N?
It's actually a charcoal-ish grey I've used in the engine compartment for various items (powder coat and matching paint)
The fuse block was actually red with a clear cover. I took everything apart and painted/powder coats the pieces, then painted the clear cover from the inside.
No real name or mfr, you see them on ebay, auto flea markets, mostly car stereo shops have stuff similar. (I found this on at a surplus electronics place)
Painless wiring offers a 4 slot bare fuse block under P/N 30002. for less than $10. If you need a cover for it, contact Painless. They offer a slip on rubber cover on other products using this base fuse block and will sell them individually if requested.
My 69 needed some help in this department. I shortened my main battery lead and ran it through a bulkhead connector to just inside the heater core
The inside looked like this before everything else was added
All the connections to the original harness were through a relay and everything was fused, as you were previously advised. A simple matter to finish the connection to the starter