Latex or Rubber Weatherstrip?
#1
Latex or Rubber Weatherstrip?
I have read many threads on weatherstripping and see problems with quality of weatherstrip and also fitment. I narrowed down to either purchase CRC rubber kit for $275 or a Latex kit for $375. Is the Latex better overall and should I go with it on my C3? Please help me so I can place my order.
#2
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
You can't go wrong with the CRC weatherstrips... It is the only weatherstrips we install in our shop... and they are USA made. The all laytex repro stuff is imported.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-16-2014 at 09:35 AM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Just curious if CRC has resolved the issue with their pillar post ws with attached hinge so the window can move up and down freely.
Bill
#4
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
What year Bill? I've not had any issue with the pillars. We just installed a set on a 79 (which would cover 72-82) a few weeks ago, and we did a 68 (68-71) late last year. Both worked fine without issue.
#5
Race Director
I have read many threads on weatherstripping and see problems with quality of weatherstrip and also fitment. I narrowed down to either purchase CRC rubber kit for $275 or a Latex kit for $375. Is the Latex better overall and should I go with it on my C3? Please help me so I can place my order.
For what it is worth...the factory latex were made in Canada due to the chemicals required are illegal for use in the United States....as I was told. And...YES...they are being made overseas...and I am glad. On a 1978-1982...the rear verticals are the softest I have found. Improvements are being made to the latex weatherstrips...and they have come a long way.
YES...I do use both (Corvette Rubber and latex)...and that is until some issues with the latex t-top weatherstrips are resolved. I know who is having them made and I often times test them for correct fit and other issues. Even the 1984-1996 latex weatherstrips also.
T-top weather strips...I use Corvette Rubber for the 1968-1977. They have issues also...due to the "spine" of the weatherstrip where the anchor pins are installed can easily tear during installation ...due to the "spine" is not dense enough to handle some pulling to get the pins to align...which is required. So care must be taken when installing.
The latex t-tops "spine" is a bit to thick and dense...and even though they fit great...the density of the "spine" and its thickness does effect the way the top will go in. They also are being re-worked and I am waiting on re-worked samples. Once this "spine" issue is correct. I will use only the latex due to they are softer.
Pillar posts..I use the latex. I am not concerned with the extension being attached...because if you know how to get them joined ...it is not a problem. Does it take more time...YES it does...but I prefer that the pillars be latex due to their softness and being soft like a marshmallow. And the reason for this is that the weatherstrip being soft...will allow the window to go up all the way (if power windows and the door closed) and not bind and stop about an inch from being all the way up. The window will seal well and with the weatherstrip being so soft...the window rollers will not be under any excessive stress and not fail so quickly. care in making sure the window parts are all good and adjustment in the door glass is required. When I shut the door...I do not want the door glass to flex out. Just enough to stop water. I can not comment (good or bad) on how well CRC pillars work...only because I use the latex and if the latex was not available..I then would have to consider them.
I use latex door mains also. They do require a little bit of modifying...but it is not a big deal (5 min). But when I get done installing them after my slight modification...you do not have to slam the door to close it...and the weatherstrips take seat very quickly. And when you go to open the door...the door does not fly open due to being under stress.
The rear verticals are what they are due to early designs are not latex.
YES...I know...Corvette Rubber does not have a latex coating on their weatherstrips...obviously. They can wear/shred away...which I have seen...the latex coating can also wear/peel and expose the foam inside. So it is a decision you need to make.
Regardless of which design to choose. They will take time to install. I go for the latex design because the time I have spent on installing aftermarket weatherstrips in the past just trying to get the windows to work correctly when the door is shut...cost more than the extra $$$ for the latex. I will not install any aftermarket kits that are not latex...if latex was original equipment. I have original latex in my shop so people can feel the difference where it makes the biggest difference in the ways components function and operate.
DUB
#6
Melting Slicks
As with my other cars, latex when available. Thanks for the update on T-top weathersripping Dub, I need to replace my driver's side M1131 this spring.
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 0
Received 62 Likes
on
52 Posts
Ever notice that, very often, when someone says "I don't want to kick the hornet's nest." it's because they are getting ready to kick a hornet's nest?
Scott
Scott
#8
Melting Slicks
ws
I do not want to "kick the hornets nest".
For what it is worth...the factory latex were made in Canada due to the chemicals required are illegal for use in the United States....as I was told. And...YES...they are being made overseas...and I am glad. On a 1978-1982...the rear verticals are the softest I have found. Improvements are being made to the latex weatherstrips...and they have come a long way.
YES...I do use both (Corvette Rubber and latex)...and that is until some issues with the latex t-top weatherstrips are resolved. I know who is having them made and I often times test them for correct fit and other issues. Even the 1984-1996 latex weatherstrips also.
T-top weather strips...I use Corvette Rubber for the 1968-1977. They have issues also...due to the "spine" of the weatherstrip where the anchor pins are installed can easily tear during installation ...due to the "spine" is not dense enough to handle some pulling to get the pins to align...which is required. So care must be taken when installing.
The latex t-tops "spine" is a bit to thick and dense...and even though they fit great...the density of the "spine" and its thickness does effect the way the top will go in. They also are being re-worked and I am waiting on re-worked samples. Once this "spine" issue is correct. I will use only the latex due to they are softer.
Pillar posts..I use the latex. I am not concerned with the extension being attached...because if you know how to get them joined ...it is not a problem. Does it take more time...YES it does...but I prefer that the pillars be latex due to their softness and being soft like a marshmallow. And the reason for this is that the weatherstrip being soft...will allow the window to go up all the way (if power windows and the door closed) and not bind and stop about an inch from being all the way up. The window will seal well and with the weatherstrip being so soft...the window rollers will not be under any excessive stress and not fail so quickly. care in making sure the window parts are all good and adjustment in the door glass is required. When I shut the door...I do not want the door glass to flex out. Just enough to stop water. I can not comment (good or bad) on how well CRC pillars work...only because I use the latex and if the latex was not available..I then would have to consider them.
I use latex door mains also. They do require a little bit of modifying...but it is not a big deal (5 min). But when I get done installing them after my slight modification...you do not have to slam the door to close it...and the weatherstrips take seat very quickly. And when you go to open the door...the door does not fly open due to being under stress.
The rear verticals are what they are due to early designs are not latex.
YES...I know...Corvette Rubber does not have a latex coating on their weatherstrips...obviously. They can wear/shred away...which I have seen...the latex coating can also wear/peel and expose the foam inside. So it is a decision you need to make.
Regardless of which design to choose. They will take time to install. I go for the latex design because the time I have spent on installing aftermarket weatherstrips in the past just trying to get the windows to work correctly when the door is shut...cost more than the extra $$$ for the latex. I will not install any aftermarket kits that are not latex...if latex was original equipment. I have original latex in my shop so people can feel the difference where it makes the biggest difference in the ways components function and operate.
DUB
For what it is worth...the factory latex were made in Canada due to the chemicals required are illegal for use in the United States....as I was told. And...YES...they are being made overseas...and I am glad. On a 1978-1982...the rear verticals are the softest I have found. Improvements are being made to the latex weatherstrips...and they have come a long way.
YES...I do use both (Corvette Rubber and latex)...and that is until some issues with the latex t-top weatherstrips are resolved. I know who is having them made and I often times test them for correct fit and other issues. Even the 1984-1996 latex weatherstrips also.
T-top weather strips...I use Corvette Rubber for the 1968-1977. They have issues also...due to the "spine" of the weatherstrip where the anchor pins are installed can easily tear during installation ...due to the "spine" is not dense enough to handle some pulling to get the pins to align...which is required. So care must be taken when installing.
The latex t-tops "spine" is a bit to thick and dense...and even though they fit great...the density of the "spine" and its thickness does effect the way the top will go in. They also are being re-worked and I am waiting on re-worked samples. Once this "spine" issue is correct. I will use only the latex due to they are softer.
Pillar posts..I use the latex. I am not concerned with the extension being attached...because if you know how to get them joined ...it is not a problem. Does it take more time...YES it does...but I prefer that the pillars be latex due to their softness and being soft like a marshmallow. And the reason for this is that the weatherstrip being soft...will allow the window to go up all the way (if power windows and the door closed) and not bind and stop about an inch from being all the way up. The window will seal well and with the weatherstrip being so soft...the window rollers will not be under any excessive stress and not fail so quickly. care in making sure the window parts are all good and adjustment in the door glass is required. When I shut the door...I do not want the door glass to flex out. Just enough to stop water. I can not comment (good or bad) on how well CRC pillars work...only because I use the latex and if the latex was not available..I then would have to consider them.
I use latex door mains also. They do require a little bit of modifying...but it is not a big deal (5 min). But when I get done installing them after my slight modification...you do not have to slam the door to close it...and the weatherstrips take seat very quickly. And when you go to open the door...the door does not fly open due to being under stress.
The rear verticals are what they are due to early designs are not latex.
YES...I know...Corvette Rubber does not have a latex coating on their weatherstrips...obviously. They can wear/shred away...which I have seen...the latex coating can also wear/peel and expose the foam inside. So it is a decision you need to make.
Regardless of which design to choose. They will take time to install. I go for the latex design because the time I have spent on installing aftermarket weatherstrips in the past just trying to get the windows to work correctly when the door is shut...cost more than the extra $$$ for the latex. I will not install any aftermarket kits that are not latex...if latex was original equipment. I have original latex in my shop so people can feel the difference where it makes the biggest difference in the ways components function and operate.
DUB
Your comment on the door weather strips are correct too. This is my experience. I thought I was stuck with slamming my doors. How closely do the latex door ws match up to originals? I even purchased some NOS ws for the doors but of course they were too old and hard.
Thanks, Bill
#9
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
When it comes to a customers car in my shop, I'm looking for something that works and is time tested! I'm looking for something I don't have to modify to install and will satisfy my customer without regard.
I have never.. not been able to install a CRC weatherstrip kit! I can get and sell the imported Laytex stuff but choose other wise! It's hard to thwart success with the CRC weatherstrips.
Bill.. if you have 3966565 and 566 pillar weatherstrips they are for 1972-1982 cars and not for a 1970. They will have to be modified slightly to be installed. Originally on the 68-71 cars, the lower was bonded to the upper pillar, you can use the 3m black glue once you have both installed to bond them together.
IMHO,
Willcox
I have never.. not been able to install a CRC weatherstrip kit! I can get and sell the imported Laytex stuff but choose other wise! It's hard to thwart success with the CRC weatherstrips.
Bill.. if you have 3966565 and 566 pillar weatherstrips they are for 1972-1982 cars and not for a 1970. They will have to be modified slightly to be installed. Originally on the 68-71 cars, the lower was bonded to the upper pillar, you can use the 3m black glue once you have both installed to bond them together.
IMHO,
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-17-2014 at 08:22 AM.
#10
Race Director
#11
Race Director
I have original pillar post weather strip w/o the hinge. I have the hinge separately. How exactly can I attach them DUB?
When I am attaching latex pillar...and then the lower extension. I take great care in making sure that the pillar is down far enough to correctly seal to the door main...which is why I also like the
latex. Then with the extension...I screw it into place and make sure that the extension has steel in it so it has structural integrity like the originals if you change them. The "tricky" spot is when you buy an extension...you may have to get another from someone else...unless they are kind enough to tell you where they bought it from. This is because there is a screw that actually goes where the two are originally vulcanized together. I prefer that the extension is slightly longer so when I go to install this screws at this joint...it will hold the extension and getting the latex to stay where I want it is easy with adhesive. Now...if you are overly concerned with what to use to fill in this seam...which if you do it correctly..will be so slight...might not need anything at all. BIT...if you are...PM me and I will let you know what I use....and YES...it takes time to set up.
Your comment on the door weather strips are correct too. This is my experience. I thought I was stuck with slamming my doors. How closely do the latex door ws match up to originals? I even purchased some NOS ws for the doors but of course they were too old and hard.
The latex door mains fit really well...but there is a modification that take about 5 minutes....and is not seen when completed if you are good with tools and paying attention. The latex door main are going to be all latex in the future ...but for now they have latex ends and then EPDM is vulcanized to make the weatherstrip that goes around the door.
Thanks, Bill
When I am attaching latex pillar...and then the lower extension. I take great care in making sure that the pillar is down far enough to correctly seal to the door main...which is why I also like the
latex. Then with the extension...I screw it into place and make sure that the extension has steel in it so it has structural integrity like the originals if you change them. The "tricky" spot is when you buy an extension...you may have to get another from someone else...unless they are kind enough to tell you where they bought it from. This is because there is a screw that actually goes where the two are originally vulcanized together. I prefer that the extension is slightly longer so when I go to install this screws at this joint...it will hold the extension and getting the latex to stay where I want it is easy with adhesive. Now...if you are overly concerned with what to use to fill in this seam...which if you do it correctly..will be so slight...might not need anything at all. BIT...if you are...PM me and I will let you know what I use....and YES...it takes time to set up.
Your comment on the door weather strips are correct too. This is my experience. I thought I was stuck with slamming my doors. How closely do the latex door ws match up to originals? I even purchased some NOS ws for the doors but of course they were too old and hard.
The latex door mains fit really well...but there is a modification that take about 5 minutes....and is not seen when completed if you are good with tools and paying attention. The latex door main are going to be all latex in the future ...but for now they have latex ends and then EPDM is vulcanized to make the weatherstrip that goes around the door.
Thanks, Bill
DUB
#12
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Certainly not one with me Dub... I value your opinion as much if not more than most. If you were talking about the OEM original stuff it was hard to beat.
But... All things considered, our last experience with the imported indo laytex weatherstripping, included sticking to the glass, sticking to the header (on the c4 cars) and tearing. The quality just isn't there. I've not seen anything recently about these issues being corrected so I'll stay with what I know works.
Willcox
But... All things considered, our last experience with the imported indo laytex weatherstripping, included sticking to the glass, sticking to the header (on the c4 cars) and tearing. The quality just isn't there. I've not seen anything recently about these issues being corrected so I'll stay with what I know works.
Willcox
#13
Race Director
Certainly not one with me Dub... I value your opinion as much if not more than most. If you were talking about the OEM original stuff it was hard to beat.
But... All things considered, our last experience with the imported indo laytex weatherstripping, included sticking to the glass, sticking to the header (on the c4 cars) and tearing. The quality just isn't there. I've not seen anything recently about these issues being corrected so I'll stay with what I know works.
Willcox
But... All things considered, our last experience with the imported indo laytex weatherstripping, included sticking to the glass, sticking to the header (on the c4 cars) and tearing. The quality just isn't there. I've not seen anything recently about these issues being corrected so I'll stay with what I know works.
Willcox
I know that the sticking issue has been corrected...because I have replaced many that have not failed. I understand that they are not quite 100% perfect like GM's were...but are SUPER CLOSE to it...and when I have customers bring me kits in from many suppliers...and I feel them...and show them compared to a latex style...there is no mistake that I will take my chances with the latex...because there is an evident issue with the aftermarket w/strips in specific areas. And I know you know where I am talking about....you have to.
YEAH..it really stunk to have to deal with the sticky w/strips....but it is also like if we did not live through the years of 8-track tape players...we would not have cassettes and then CD's and so on. SO...I am confident that he will get these RIGHT..because I know that he wants them right....and he is correcting the fine issues to get them to perfection.
DUB
#15
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Posts: 6,397
Received 640 Likes
on
463 Posts
I bought all GM factory weatherstripping for my 79 and had the dealer install it. It was somewhere around $2,000 just for the weatherstripping. Much to my dismay a couple of years later I noticed the weatherstripping on the outside of the passenger t-top where the door glass rests had split along the length of the t-top. I'm not sure if a different adjustment of the door glass would have prevented it but I regret buying the expensive weatherstripping and having the GM dealer install it. And the A pillar trim piece on the driver's side had a sharp edge where the door meets the a pillar and that cut the weatherstripping on the door. I took the A pillar trim off and ground away the sharp edge at the bottom but it was too late. I had the dealer install it precisely to prevent this sort of thing from happening.
Last edited by Priya; 12-24-2015 at 12:26 PM.
#17
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2008
Posts: 8,968
Received 2,686 Likes
on
1,414 Posts
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I just installed CRC weatherstrips at all locations, and everything worked perfectly, and its the first time I ever did it. I followed the instructions in the Assembly Manual. Pretty simple, with patience it requires to make the window adjustments.
#18
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Time tested and time proven..