the bottom of the page cam choice is almost always a bad choice.

my L-82 has the cam set 2 advanced 1.6 roller rockers ported aluminum heads with 64 cc chambers, close to 10.0-1 compression intake headers etc. i won't guess on horsepower or torque but , this thing pulls hard everywhere not a flat spot anywhere. the drivability is great and the mileage is better, when my foot isn't in it. combination.

 

wow 63mako that was a lot to read. the problem of the intake gasket not sealing and sucking oil is something i have with my set of s/r torquers that have been machined too far. the stock heads needed a valve job too. i do think it was revved too high. didn't try squirting oil in #8, jumped the gun there. one thing i do know about the #8 cylinder is that the valves seal perfectly, and i'm pretty sure the valve stem seals (umbrella type) are in good shape. the driver side was blowing smoke and when i pulled the headers off, 1, 3, and 7 were coated in soot but the number 5 port was clean enough to eat off of. it was also the cylinder with the bad spark plug but that was replaced and the motor was run with the new plug.
i've become worried about the cam. 2 of the lifters were mushroomed and required pliers to pull them out (cylinders 1 and 2, one was an intake the other was an exhaust but don't remember which was which) i'll head to a machine shop tomorrow and have them inspect everything for me, resurface and so on. one of the cam lobes (7 or 8, it's the next to last one) has some scratches on the tip. somewhere near the back on the passenger side i had a ticking that sounded like a rocker arm needed adjusted but none did. i don't know which lobe goes with which cylinder but could this be related to the scratched lobe? tried examining the rocker arms while it was running but didn't have any luck visually pinpointing the tick.

 

If bottom of the the lifters are mushroomed and the high point of a cam lobe is scratched up the cam and lifters are junk.

 

Once a scratch or any kind of surface irregularity develops, wear increases very rapidly. It looks like you caught it just in time to avoid having a bunch of ground-up cam and lifter metal flowing around in your oil system. Lucky! Hang that cam up on the wall of your garage, as a sacrifice offered up to the god of speed.

Scott

 

soooo I'm looking at buying another SK12-238-2 or CL12-242-2 (grind number XE268H) would like input about the XE268H before I jump for it. couldn't find the 12-319-4 as suggested by 63Mako in a cam and lifter kit at summit racing
also found out the motor is bored .40 over. it wasn't rebuilt either, it was re-ringed.

 

Then say the hell with common sense and buy the one at the bottom of the page anyway

 

If you want to pay shipping ive got a cam ill send you, comp cams xe262h. No lifters or springs. I pulled the cam from my l48 and if i ever rebuild it ill go roller. The cam appears to be in great shape, the catch is i dont get home for two weeks.

 

This one made 440HP in a 327....

.390/.410
272/276 .050"
108 Sep

 

At what rpm?

 

7200

 

If you remeber, what was the torque? I guess what asking is were did it start making good power, 4000 rpm?

 

bluedawg-thanks but I can't wait that long
any advice on the 12-238 vs 12-242 would be greatly appreciated.

 

Haven't got the dyno sheets. It's an NHRA stocker. Engine is up from 427HP with the old cam.

 

update: went with the 12-238 again.
got it rebuilt with a couple problems along the way. (motor from hell, and even the mechanic I finally took it to agreed) got it barely running and had an issue that I had spent 2 days fighting during the rebuild so I took it to a mechanic and they fought with it for several days. only problem left is the carburetor won't idle. it runs but I can't drive it the way it is. runs rich constantly. mechanic said it had no idle circuit (whatever that means) so I emailed holley directly and now I've ordered a new metering block. and we'll see what happens this week.
the mechanic (after 5 or more attempts) was able to get it in gear before it died and go for a short test drive up and down the block. nice to finally see it driving again after a year and a half.
and scotty, I recycled the old cam instead of hanging it in the garage. lol

 

What does the cam have for duration @ .50" and what is the initial timing set at?

 

A flat tappet cam requires a 20 minute break in, in park, 2000 + rpm to mate the lifters to the lobes. It sound like this was not the case. A fresh rebuild also needs correct break in to seat the rings. Gas washing the cylinder walls excessively to the point it will not stay running sounds like bad news and result would be glazed cylinder walls and oil full of gas.
The fresh rebuild is quite likely junk at this point. Why on earth would you not just stop and put a known good carb on the car before continuing? Didn't you have a carb that came off the car originally when it was running?

 

I didn't spend much time trying to make it run before I took it to the mechanic, and they put a known good carb on and it ran great (another holley 750 . don't know how long they ran it.
my known good carb (holley 3310 750 cfm) was stolen by my sister for her car and she moved to Mesa. replaced the metering block, made several attempts today at the mechanic shop and still same problem so the carb is going to the junkyard. hoping my motor is still good, 63Mako has me worried now.
I had the timing @ 4 degrees advanced when I took it to the mechanic and they've upped it to 6 degrees. don't remember the cam specs. I have a break-in lube in the oil.
i'll go check the oil when I'm done here at the library and see if there's gas.