C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 04:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by superdan
I apologies if this isn't the correct spot for this.
I just got a 79 l82 vette and it doesn't have much takeoff power . I've never had a corvette so maybe I expect more out of it than I should but it seems to run fine it has edelbrock carb and intake long tube headers and a 700r4 trans witch I think might be my problem it does have a slip in 3rd but I'm not sure if that would effect the takeoff. Do y'all have any input on this ?

Thanks Dan.
IMO First priority is to get the trans slip sorted, if the cable set-up from the trans to the carb is not spot on you can ruin your clutch packs in a very short time. Then look at timing and carb, car should not fall on its face when you hoof it. The 700R4 trans has a lower first gear than the TH350 so should haul well off the line when everything is set up properly plus the added bonus of overdrive 4th gear for cruising.You could still have a diff ratio 3:08 or under which will slow your launch, seems a 3:55 or 3:76 are the favoured ratios for all round performance with a 700R4.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
I tried a few back in the day when I didn't know anything and thought anything that said Edelbrock on it was awesome. they are junk, and they corrode really fast also. if the OPs car has been sitting for a while I would look into the carb for sure.
Well, you still don't know anything about them. Mines been on for 15 years with no corrosion issues. If you can't get something as simple as a Edelbrock carb to run right, you should have someone do it for you.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by superdan
Thanks for all the imput its really appreciated. The timing is at 12° I'm thinking the engine isn't original to the car it's definitely been out and all the smog/ac has been removed .another thing if you just punch it from a dead stop it'll die not sure what's up with that either.this is the first chevy I've owned and probably 2nd carburetor vehicle I've had so it's all pretty new to me
Look for operating accelerator pump. With the motor off look into the primaries and rotate the throttle, you should see 2 streams of gas go down the primaries.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
Well, you still don't know anything about them. Mines been on for 15 years with no corrosion issues. If you can't get something as simple as a Edelbrock carb to run right, you should have someone do it for you.

My little 600cfm 1406 runs like a clock.
NO issues
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 06:49 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Blazekillerace
Totally agree, if you put in good pieces it could take a lot of abuse even for being a 10-bolt. The t-arm assemblies I heard can be a pain to replace, but completely worth it imo as well as half shafts which I plan on buying some after market ones. Idk whether to go with the Iron 3.0" Half shaft or the Aluminum 3.5" Haft Shaft. Even though the aluminum is thicker still worries me that it's aluminum. Any suggestions? I apologize for leaving the current subject of this thread.

Blake
Check with Van Steel. They will be honest and guide you according to your intended application. And, they rebuild/sell the needed parts. VERY good experience with Van Steel on my C3's.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TedH
Check with Van Steel. They will be honest and guide you according to your intended application. And, they rebuild/sell the needed parts. VERY good experience with Van Steel on my C3's.
Ironically that's where I found the half shaft options. But I'll be sure to give them a call. Thanks TedH.

Blake
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:48 PM
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The tac filter is still there but it's all electrical taped when it goes into the dist.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #28  
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And I'm not keeping this 700r4 it's starting to slip worse and this TV cable was stuffed down between the motor and firewall plus it's way stretched
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 07:15 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by superdan
The tac filter is still there but it's all electrical taped when it goes into the dist.
I have not had a tach filter in my 78 for over 10 years and the tach works fine. Disconnect the filter and run the tach wire directly to the dist. If it solves the problem then you decide if you want to buy one or not. If not then : http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...ed_12_2010.pdf
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 07:47 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by sstopczy
You stated it has a 700r4 transmissoin. That is not stock and operates with a TV cable that mounts to your carb. Take it somewhere for them to test pressure and properly adjust your TV cable as necessary. An improperly adjusted TV cable can lead to transmission problems. Torqure converter stall speed could be causing your issues too. Perhaps a 3000 stall converter was installed during the transmission swap and your engine is stock. If you are looking for instant response from the throttle you need a lower stall converter. Just a few other things to check out.
The 700R4 WAS stock for 82. It was the first year (along with cross fire injection) and it still needed a great deal of development by GM to become a reliable tranny.

The OP stated that it had an Edelbrock manifold, so obviously the cross fire has been replaced (and PROBABLY the distributor that supported the injection). You cannot assume anything about tis engine's internals, fuel system or ignition system. Before attempting changes, even tuning, the OP needs to determine 1) what fuel pump he has (is it the original in-tank FI pump and is the pressure properly regulated before it gets to the pump, 2) what carb he has on it, 3) what distributor he has on it (has it been changed to a standard 4 pin HEI? Does it have a vacuum advance that is properly connected and functioning?) 4) What is the timing? 5) Does the connection between the tranny's TV cable and the new carb actually work - does it give the proper signals to the tranny and do adjustments work as GM intended?
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 08:57 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rotonda
The 700R4 WAS stock for 82. It was the first year (along with cross fire injection) and it still needed a great deal of development by GM to become a reliable tranny.

The OP stated that it had an Edelbrock manifold, so obviously the cross fire has been replaced (and PROBABLY the distributor that supported the injection). You cannot assume anything about tis engine's internals, fuel system or ignition system. Before attempting changes, even tuning, the OP needs to determine 1) what fuel pump he has (is it the original in-tank FI pump and is the pressure properly regulated before it gets to the pump, 2) what carb he has on it, 3) what distributor he has on it (has it been changed to a standard 4 pin HEI? Does it have a vacuum advance that is properly connected and functioning?) 4) What is the timing? 5) Does the connection between the tranny's TV cable and the new carb actually work - does it give the proper signals to the tranny and do adjustments work as GM intended?
LOL! OP has a '79, the MOTOR is an L82.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 09:35 AM
  #32  
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Yea car is a 79 and I'd like to make it fairly close to factory with a couple exceptions here's a pic of it
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 10:03 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hugie82
Try bumping the timing up. Turn the distributor counter clockwise about 1/8 of an inch.
I agree. I used to speed the timing up (advance it) until she pinged under acceleration, then back her off until she quit. The most advance you can get away with without pre-ignition is where the most power will be made.

Originally Posted by qwank
Get rid of the Edelbrock carb. those things are junk
People said the same thing about the Quadrajet, over and over again. I've rebuilt 100's of them. Once PROPERLY set up, they offer decent fuel mileage due to the small primaries and great power when the secondaries are set to come on properly. The Edelbrock design is similar, and offers a much more efficient idle circuit and main metering circuit. It's a much more efficient design than a Holley, when properly set up of course. Many toss a Holley on because they work. Every time. They just don't work EFFICIENTLY, and never will.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 12:31 PM
  #34  
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Set up your TV cable properly and THEN check how the transmission runs. Without the TV cable hooked up, depending how much you drove it the damage could very well already be done. 700r4s NEED the TV cable hooked up right with the correct geometry or bad things will happen.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 01:38 PM
  #35  
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It's probably been driven over 100 miles that I know of the guy i got it from drove it to me and he didn't say anything about the TV cable
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