CenterForce Clutch Problem
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,913
Likes: 283
CenterForce Clutch Problem
I am posting this over here as well because I need all the input as possible on this stumping problem.
The original thread can be seen here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...436430#3436430
Here it is:
I installed a new centerforce clutch system and here is the problem:
(here are the centerforce numbers, centerforce say's these are the correct).
Pressure Plate # CF361675 (10.5")
Disk # 383271
Throw-Out-Bearing (self aligning) # N1716
The clutch pedal has about 3/4 of it travel that is free, (it does not just fall to the floor, there is pressure from linkage and springs, just no clutch pressure) and the last 1/4 starts to disengage the clutch, and the fork is moving full travel through out the entire clutch pedal event.
The fork cannot go back any further or it would hit the tunnel wall.
The adjustment rod is is at it's end.
I replaced the clutch fork pivot stud in the bell housing and it is the same size as the one that came out.
Plus when the clutch is pushed to the floor and starts to disengage (what little it does) there is a raspy noise comming from the bell housing? Of course because of the limited amount of disengagement I am not sure if it is normal break-in or not. It sounds like those funky weights and wire loop things on the CenterForce pressure plate fingers.
I would like to check these numbers to verify that they are correct to eliminate the BuBBA varible. (for a 1965 327/365shp with close ratio muncie).
M-21 close ratio: 10 spline
Muncie # 3851325
Tag Number #(857579)
Tail shaft number # 385758GM
Bell Housing (Aluminum) # 3858403
stock shifter and linkage. Linkage all intackt and in good working order.
My only thoughts are that the throw-out bearing is to short. It is 1/16" of an inch shorter then the one that came out. Centerforce says this is because the fingers on the pressure plate are 1/16" longer then stock.
Mark
The original thread can be seen here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...436430#3436430
Here it is:
I installed a new centerforce clutch system and here is the problem:
(here are the centerforce numbers, centerforce say's these are the correct).
Pressure Plate # CF361675 (10.5")
Disk # 383271
Throw-Out-Bearing (self aligning) # N1716
The clutch pedal has about 3/4 of it travel that is free, (it does not just fall to the floor, there is pressure from linkage and springs, just no clutch pressure) and the last 1/4 starts to disengage the clutch, and the fork is moving full travel through out the entire clutch pedal event.
The fork cannot go back any further or it would hit the tunnel wall.
The adjustment rod is is at it's end.
I replaced the clutch fork pivot stud in the bell housing and it is the same size as the one that came out.
Plus when the clutch is pushed to the floor and starts to disengage (what little it does) there is a raspy noise comming from the bell housing? Of course because of the limited amount of disengagement I am not sure if it is normal break-in or not. It sounds like those funky weights and wire loop things on the CenterForce pressure plate fingers.
I would like to check these numbers to verify that they are correct to eliminate the BuBBA varible. (for a 1965 327/365shp with close ratio muncie).
M-21 close ratio: 10 spline
Muncie # 3851325
Tag Number #(857579)
Tail shaft number # 385758GM
Bell Housing (Aluminum) # 3858403
stock shifter and linkage. Linkage all intackt and in good working order.
My only thoughts are that the throw-out bearing is to short. It is 1/16" of an inch shorter then the one that came out. Centerforce says this is because the fingers on the pressure plate are 1/16" longer then stock.
Mark
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: lakeland,fl
Re: CenterForce Clutch Problem (ghostrider20)
I put this setup in my wife's car a couple of months ago and had the pedal travel also. Mine is not quite as severe as what you describe but similar. I just waited and got used to the new clutch feel. It works great , but I did stall it a few times getting used to the new travel.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: South San Francisco CA
Re: CenterForce Clutch Problem (ghostrider20)
Try removing all of your free play and see what happens. I put a CenterForce clutch in my car about two years ago and had a very similar problem. Even though it feels like there is no "free play" on my clutch pedal, my mechanic says there is and since he adjusted it....everything has been OK.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,654
Likes: 190
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Re: CenterForce Clutch Problem (fontking1a)
I know the noise raspy noise you are talking about, had it in a hot rod a few years ago after I replaced the clutch, chalked it up to a bad install on my part.
It ran OK but never got to see how long it would last because a tree jumped in front of the car and sent it to the boneyard.
If you got it installed professionally then take it back and let them hear the noise, they most likely have heard it before. I personnaly do not think this is a "good" noise to have coming from a clutch assembly.
It ran OK but never got to see how long it would last because a tree jumped in front of the car and sent it to the boneyard.
If you got it installed professionally then take it back and let them hear the noise, they most likely have heard it before. I personnaly do not think this is a "good" noise to have coming from a clutch assembly.
