I ahve the AIM.

Now, for real world advice.

I have the rag bolts unbolt.

I have the upper mast bolts removed.

It looks like I need to remove two nuts, from the inside, at the firewall, correct? The nuts are shielded by a flexible plastic panel that makes them hard to reach, but I think i can deform the plastic enough to get a socket in there.

Are these strictly studs? The AIM seems to make one out as a thru bolt. I have no idea how to work on both sides of the firewall at once, if it is a bolt. Any input on this?

Once those two nuts are removed at the firewall, the column should just pull in enough to clear the rag, and then drop down?


Do I have to do anything with that trans cable lever (the cable is missing) on the engine side?

Am I missing anything?

Any advice?

Having a stiff neck,a nd working under the dash doesn't help.

Thanks,
Doug

 

Hi Doug,
You're on the right track.
And yes, they're actually studs set into the plate you see on the engine compartment side of the firewall where the column exits.
I'd loosen the cable from the lever and the plate on on compartment side. Remove the plate, and position the lever so it can slide into the interior. You'll see just where the lever needs to be once the plate is removed.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

I remove my column (69) whenever I remove the instrument panel. More time, but opens things up significantly. And, less chance of breaking something. First, I'd loosely reinstall the "mast" bolts. The entire column is being supported by the firewall support that you're trying to free up. Two bolts hold the support to the firewall and, yes, the nuts are on the inside. The "flexible plastic panel" is held to the firewall with one or two rubber push plugs. They install from the inside. If you're lucky, you'll be able to remove them intact. Mine broke. Replacements are available. The bolt on the passenger's side of the column is a carriage bolt that engages the interlock cable bracket; the bolt on the other side is a stud. Also, you'll have to remove the clutch pedal return spring which attaches to the interlock cable bracket. Do this before removing the two nuts. The column should now be loose. Before removing it, be sure to disconnect the connectors to the ignition switch and turn signal harmonica. One other thing. Before attempting to remove the column, insure that the trans I/lock cable lever is in the up position. It must align with a slot in the firewall for "troublefree" column removal. Otherwise, you're going to find yourself using a bunch of bad words as you do battle with the column. Good luck.

 

Hi, Alan,

The cable is already removed, actually it was in a bag of parts that came with the car.

I have no clutch, so no worries about that.

Now, when you say remove the plate, I have a huge power brake booster in the way,and can't see down there.

This plate that holds the cable,

It looks like it is the same plate that the stud and carriage bolt goes thru that the two inside nuts I need to remove, are attached to?

I will reinstall the mast bolts as suggested.

Seems there must be a big slot in the firewall for that interlock lever behind that palte?

I would think if I can get the firewall piece undone, then the column can be slid inside the pass compartment just enough to clear the rag bolts, then column drop down on the inside, while raising on the outside, without removing the column completely and dorking with the associated wiring? I just need enough room to get the speedo/tach out for refurb.


I see the plastic plugs holding the plastic panel in place, we will see how removal of those goes.

Getting old, and working upside down under the dash.....

Thanks,
Doug

 

I got the car up on a lift, and was able to break the plastic plugs off from the backside and push them through and get the plastic panel off.

It looks like it is getting more doable.

Thanks,
Doug

 

Hi Doug,
If you loosen the 2 nuts on the inside, the steering column can drop down 3 or 4 inches which is enough to get the dash pad out and back in.
removing the column makes it easier but still not easy!
Many people find it's worth taking the seat out to do any serious amount of work on that side of the dash. You can lay on your back with your head under the dash and your lower legs/feet in the rear compartment.
Here's that plastic shield. It's held in with 2 carpet plugs (2 holes) and can be a bear to re-install.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

I already had the seats out, as I was getting theseat belts rewebbed and retractors refurbed, so the dash pull was part of the plan before the seats go back in. Along with routing the new antennae cable up under the console

I got the column into the car (mostly), now to get everything unhooked from behind the dash.

i probably should have unscrewed the tach and speedo cables first, I think I can still get to them from underneath.


The new belts look wonderful. I wish the previous owner, who installed new seat covers had done it right, I get to partially redo those also.

And you wouldn't believe what he used for hinge bolts on the seat back hinges, no wonder they were so sloppy. I have new shoulder screws and bushings for those.

Thanks,
Doug