Brake Parts
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
From: Hickory NC
Brake Parts
Going to rebuild brakes on 1981. New calipers, master cylinder, booster....etc. Where should I buy. O'Reilly's or one of the forum vendors? O'Reilly's cheap but gut says no.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 1
From: Pennsylvania
In the process of doing so right now, also on an 81. Depends on what resources you have/the condition of your brake system. A couple general rules of thumb I've picked up combing through here:
Master Cylinder: If the bore/reservoir is rusted (especially if it's pitted) you probably need a new one. They're pretty cheap on ebay.
Brake Boosters rarely fail, unless you know of a preexisting issue
Brake pads definitely need to be replaced. Probably your e-brake pads, too.
Upgrade to stainless steel brakelines, get some new trailing arms
If your calipers are not rusted beyond repair (pitted), you can refinish them with a sandblaster and a rebuild kit. If not, you can send your old ones in for a core charge to most places and get new ones. I used vette brakes and products.
Replacing your brake pipes and distributors depend on their condition.
Hope that helps!
Master Cylinder: If the bore/reservoir is rusted (especially if it's pitted) you probably need a new one. They're pretty cheap on ebay.
Brake Boosters rarely fail, unless you know of a preexisting issue
Brake pads definitely need to be replaced. Probably your e-brake pads, too.
Upgrade to stainless steel brakelines, get some new trailing arms
If your calipers are not rusted beyond repair (pitted), you can refinish them with a sandblaster and a rebuild kit. If not, you can send your old ones in for a core charge to most places and get new ones. I used vette brakes and products.
Replacing your brake pipes and distributors depend on their condition.
Hope that helps!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
From: Hickory NC
Brakes
In the process of doing so right now, also on an 81. Depends on what resources you have/the condition of your brake system. A couple general rules of thumb I've picked up combing through here:
Master Cylinder: If the bore/reservoir is rusted (especially if it's pitted) you probably need a new one. They're pretty cheap on ebay.
Brake Boosters rarely fail, unless you know of a preexisting issue
Brake pads definitely need to be replaced. Probably your e-brake pads, too.
Upgrade to stainless steel brakelines, get some new trailing arms
If your calipers are not rusted beyond repair (pitted), you can refinish them with a sandblaster and a rebuild kit. If not, you can send your old ones in for a core charge to most places and get new ones. I used vette brakes and products.
Replacing your brake pipes and distributors depend on their condition.
Hope that helps!
Master Cylinder: If the bore/reservoir is rusted (especially if it's pitted) you probably need a new one. They're pretty cheap on ebay.
Brake Boosters rarely fail, unless you know of a preexisting issue
Brake pads definitely need to be replaced. Probably your e-brake pads, too.
Upgrade to stainless steel brakelines, get some new trailing arms
If your calipers are not rusted beyond repair (pitted), you can refinish them with a sandblaster and a rebuild kit. If not, you can send your old ones in for a core charge to most places and get new ones. I used vette brakes and products.
Replacing your brake pipes and distributors depend on their condition.
Hope that helps!
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 4
From: Springfield VA
My 73 sat for several years. When I opened the calipers it was a lot of gunk in there.
I rebuilt my 4 calipers (O-rings not lip seal), replaced all the rotors, brake hoses, carbon metallic pads, and 2 small rear brake lines. The master cylinder and booster both still seem fine for now.
I rebuilt my 4 calipers (O-rings not lip seal), replaced all the rotors, brake hoses, carbon metallic pads, and 2 small rear brake lines. The master cylinder and booster both still seem fine for now.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
From: Hickory NC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
From: Hickory NC
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 1
From: Pennsylvania
Thats a great deal, the only thing I would suggest, as stated before, is requesting that they upgrade your brake lines to stainless steel over rubber. Its a little more expensive, but offers great peace of mind.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 911
Likes: 5
From: TN
old rotors
I must be taking good care of my original owner 1968 convertible with about 98,000 miles. Same brake rotors since the 68 left the factory. Same emergency brake shoes and is used every time I drive it. Same with my 1970 original owner with over 160,000 miles.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
I had a leaking rear caliper on my 75, without power brakes. The brake started to stick, so I took off the capiper yesterday. Expecting to find lip seals. I found o-ring seals with ss sleeves, that were in great shape. Only one piston was leaking and that one was full of gunk. Cleaned the entire caliper out and put it back on. Bleed the brake caliper, but the pedal is low and soft. Are you supposed to bleed both sides of caliper? I only used the bleeder nut the furthest from the incoming brake line. Thanks