What performance cam would you recommend to match those stock #80 seat pressure springs?

 

I've read the Goodwrench Quest so I'm all for vortec heads. Scoggin Dickey sells modified vortec head to allow for higher spring rates, but the TS doesn't mention where he got the heads... Heck, he doesn't even state if he's purchased the appropriate intake or a regular intake.

Nonetheless, I hope Florida posts back his results. Would be interesting to compare to the Goodwrench Quest.

 

What trans and gears? How do you use the car?

 

NO! Vortecs smoke the old Camel Hump heads in quality and flow!

 

i agree with ironcross if you could do a little bowl work to the LT-1 heads.
i can't get excited over a head with small valves that requires guide work to function with a comparatively mild cam. the vortec heads may flow decently out of the box but it doesn't take much work to get the old double hump heads to blow them away.

 

The point is no work. Iirc even the 262h is to big

 

machining the valve guides and possibly longer valves is no work?
even still i have to say there are better options than the vortec for not much more money. and maybe cheaper in a used head.

 

CarCraft did a shootout with 8 sets of under-1000-dollar heads, and the Flo-tek heads came out about even with the Vortec heads. If nothing else, this article has flow-bench data for all the heads, taken on the same flow-bench, for an unbiased comparison:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...head_shootout/

These are the Flo-tek heads:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html

I don't have any actual experience with these heads, but from everything I can find out about them, they seem to be an even better deal than the Vortec heads. Just something to think about, that's all.

Scott

 

Scottyp99 refers to a good article. Also check out the Patriot heads. They produced 19 more hp than the Flo-tek heads and you can usually find them for $700.00. I have used these for three years through the recommendation of an engine builder and have been totally happy with the performance.

 

Great articles, and very informative. Those aluminum flo tek heads do appear to be a decent price.

I was very **** when I bought the cam for my motor. It is a Howards flat tappet Cam, and I called them twice to talk about using it with stock L31 vortec heads.

They clearly stated that the cam should (operative word being should?) be ok, but to measure of course to be sure.

My measurements have me within the outer level of recommended tolerances.

To be safe, .46 or .47, to be a little on the risky side, .48, no more than .5 at all without spring work.

 

As a friend of mine once said, "there in squats the toad". "Not much more money" is like "while I'm in there" - it sounds awesome until you get the VISA bill.

Vortecs aren't the best heads on the planet. They're just about the bottom of the stack in a new head. Yet...they fill a very important niche, and this is where the discussion always goes sideways.

Sideways one is that they have to be upgraded - :BS: Look at the flow numbers and peaks - just effing run them! They'll deliver a little better than 1 HP/CID right out of the box with the stamped-steel factory rockers, cheap take-off valve covers, the right flat-tappet cam and a Performer intake. If you're spending money on machining, springs, retainers...then you're wasting it; BUY BETTER HEADS.

Sideways two is that there are better heads. Yep, there sure are. But two things - not everyone is trying to make 500 HP, or has the money for all the upgrades required to do so. I get so tired of making this point to guys that just don't get it - Silver Spark Plug Syndrome. As I say regularly, the vast majority of folks would be pretty darn happy with around 1 HP/CID at the flywheel. Some aren't, and I get that completely - but recognize that everyone is not you

Sideways three is rebuilding "old skool" heads. Right off the bat, you're into around the price of a set of NEW Vortecs just to get the old skool heads into shape - guides (and they ALL need guides) valve job, surfacing, springs, etc...and this is if they pass 'fluxing and you didn't buy junk. You've then got a seat of heads that flow about 25 CFM *LESS* than a set of Vortecs, and with a much worse chamber shape. A smart guy with a grinder can maybe pick that up by cleaning up under the seats and the short radius...but that's not everybody for sure. The numbers some folks use to "prove" that the old skool heads make a lot of flow come from some postings by David Vizard...and if you read some of the source articles you'll see that he spent 40+ hours porting and testing those heads because at the time...there wasn't much better out there without spending a lot of money. There is today...and there's zero reason to spend money on an old skool head from a performance perspective.

 

I'll stay away from the debate, as I'm not qualified to make any comments. What I can add is that I installed rebuilt vortec heads on my pos, tired 350 back in 2000. Added performer vortec intake, out of the box carter 625 carb and an unknown cam that was already installed in the engine. Reused self aligning rocker arms and used vortec valve covers. Total budget top end redo.

Did 16 pulls on dyno after installing heads, never getting above 4800 rpm (due to unknown state of bottom half of engine) and pulled about 258 hp at the rear wheels. We did some basic tuning of carb while on the dyno.

I figure a really good tune and the appropriate cam and carb adjustment would have easily taken me over 300 hp at rear wheels and good, solid bottom end even higher.

In my case I kept it simple... just installed em and smile while I drive.

 

Well said Billa

Pete

 

Not trying to argue. Just trying to inform the OP that plans on a specific combination that he needs to double check if his plans may need adjustment and some things he needs to check and confirm.

 

I have to agree with Mako on this. If there is any doubt at all, check it! I have seen a lot of broken and bent parts in my life from people assuming it will be OK. I never assume anything! I always check. Checking and finding you need to do some minor machine work or clearance work is a lot cheaper than assuming it's OK and trashing the engine!

 

Apparently, the old Patriot heads are now being sold under the Pro Maxx name. Talked to a representative at Summit Racing, and he confirmed it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2169/overview/

843 bucks, not a bad deal!

Scott

 

I believe these are the heads Chris Straub is selling for $675. A great deal especially set up with the springs you need and quality components by a guy I would trust.

 

Crikey! That's an even better deal! I'll take a dozen pairs at that price!

Edit: Just noticed that they are angle plug heads. Ya think he would build a set of straight plug heads for the same price? I just sent him an e-mail asking him, I'll let y'all know if he replies. Is there some reason that the angle plug heads would be desirable over the straight plug heads? I thought the angle plug heads could interfere with headers, and should be avoided.

Scott

 

Let use know on the straight plug availability.

 

Boy, the agenda-driven spin doctors are really at it with misrepresentation and stealth edits.

At no time did I suggest not checking valvetrain clearances. Quite the opposite, and a search of the forum will show how often I note it.

I did dispel FUD and misinformation about Vortec heads.

Sheesh.

:deadhorse: