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Vortec heads coming soon!

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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Default Vortec heads coming soon!

Here we go...Had my 79 for 1 1/2 years, going to try and make it go a little faster. Got everything ordered to do a Vortec head upgrade. Performer intake, new springs for the 268 comp cam. New comp cam rocker arms, headers etc.
I never take before and after pics, so I started this to make me document the transition.
Starting with a 350 crate motor. Pics to follow, really.
(Please don't write telling me how I should have bought $1600 AFR head...I still have kids at home and this is affordable)
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Florida 79
(Please don't write telling me how I should have bought $1600 AFR head...I still have kids at home and this is affordable)
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Florida 79
...(Please don't write telling me how I should have bought $1600 AFR head...I still have kids at home and this is affordable)
I love the way posters want to spend other people's money.

Pete
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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That's why I mentioned it. I've read these threads and that's most of threads, "you should buy AFR and ceramic stuff" and other things that cost more than my car did.
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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i couldn't agree more, good luck with your project.
is it my imagination that it seems there are more haters on this forum than there used to be?
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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do you already have a crate motor that you are going to put the new heads on ?
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:53 AM
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Comp cams XE268H Valve lift .477/.480. Vortec heads retainer to seal clearance .475-.480. Recommended safety margin retainer to seal clearance with valve full lift .060. Just for your information. This is why stock vortec L31 has .414/.428 lift cam and at that they are pushing the generally recommended safety margin. You can machine the tops of the guides, get offset retainers or locks or go with +.100 valves to avoid issues. You can check the distance from the bottom of the retainer to the seal on 1 intake and 1 exhaust test assembled. I would want to see a bare minimum of .525 between the two, .540 would be prudent. Also these have pressed rocker studs. I have seen these pull after hot tanking and with heavier springs and high lift cams
Edit: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ds_valve_lift/

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 7, 2014 at 02:22 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 09:43 AM
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I am with you on this one!!!

I put on brand new Cast Iron Dart Vortecs. $400 for the pair with the valves and springs. Aluminum seems to START at $1000 these days.

All prices have gone up though since I bought mine a couple years ago.

I would caution you to watch the lift. More than .5 and you have to change springs and such. I opted for .48 lift on in/ex and have no problem.

Vortecs immediately add 40 or so hp. Your 82 will not be the same car! Especially with intake, exhaust and a Holley!!!

You may have to think about suspension after all that
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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Edited for content:

Originally Posted by Florida 79
Here we go...Had my 79 for 1 1/2 years, going to try and make it go a little faster.
It already goes fast enough......I think that you really meant "Get to the next traffic light faster"!



Originally Posted by Florida 79
That's why I mentioned it. I've read these threads and that's most of threads, "you should buy AFR and ceramic stuff" and other things that cost more than my car did.

Whatever you do.....buy a high quality...................

$70 Kodak digital camera!


(We need the pics!)

Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 7, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 10:27 AM
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As I've noted many times, I'm not a fan of machining stock Vortec heads - run 'em out of the box or buy a better head. That said, I would not run anything over about .460 lift. I've seen clearance all over the map with these heads, but the flow tops out around .450...so lifting it a ton higher doesn't really give a significant power improvement. Once you start monkeying around with these heads, the cost goes up such that they're a lot less of a value.

NEW press-in studs aren't a problem - any head that's been hot tanked should have the studs pulled and replaced with screw-in studs, but that's not the case here.

The specifics here are important - the rockers need to be 1.5 ratio and self-aligning, and the spring installed height is key. Unless you're planning to turn over about 5500 RPM, I wouldn't get too wound up about changing the springs out.

More detail would be good to see exactly what you're doing and make sure that the parts all work together. The SDPC Vortec kits are often one of the best deals simply because they have all the parts that work together well.

As an aside, the CHP article is junk as most of them are in that rag. If I subscribed, I'd keep it in the can - and not to read.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
As I've noted many times, I'm not a fan of machining stock Vortec heads - run 'em out of the box or buy a better head. That said, I would not run anything over about .460 lift. I've seen clearance all over the map with these heads, but the flow tops out around .450...so lifting it a ton higher doesn't really give a significant power improvement. Once you start monkeying around with these heads, the cost goes up such that they're a lot less of a value.

NEW press-in studs aren't a problem - any head that's been hot tanked should have the studs pulled and replaced with screw-in studs, but that's not the case here.

The specifics here are important - the rockers need to be 1.5 ratio and self-aligning, and the spring installed height is key. Unless you're planning to turn over about 5500 RPM, I wouldn't get too wound up about changing the springs out.

More detail would be good to see exactly what you're doing and make sure that the parts all work together. The SDPC Vortec kits are often one of the best deals simply because they have all the parts that work together well.

As an aside, the CHP article is junk as most of them are in that rag. If I subscribed, I'd keep it in the can - and not to read.
a better choice would have been a set of 1970 LT=1 heads instead of the Truck heads
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:25 PM
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The point I was trying to make is to check the retainer to seal clearance after test installing new springs on 1 intake and 1 exhaust at correct install height and compare it to the max lift on the cam plus .060. If clearance is at or over these parameters your good to go. If not it is time to decide if your willing to run less safety margin or what option is best to achieve safe minimum clearances. As you said they run all over the board. On set of heads might be fine @ .475 lift one set might need work @ .450 lift to achieve a .060 safety margin. Best bet is measure your particular head and spring setup and use your particular cam specs to determine if your specific heads are safe to use as is. It is false economy to assume your good to go without verifying and end up with problems that require extensive work and head removal or worse to resolve.

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 7, 2014 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
a better choice would have been a set of 1970 LT=1 heads instead of the Truck heads
No, not the case - the Vortecs outflow any "old skool" heads significantly, especially in the critical mid-range, and have a far better chamber. Also, those heads would cost more than a Vortec to overhaul...so more money for less flow is not a good deal in any way.

There isn't a better stock GEN I head than the Vortec.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
It is false economy to assume your good to go without verifying and end up with problems that require extensive work and head removal or worse to resolve.
Of course checking the clearances - all clearances - is critical, but your post suggested a good deal of machine work without context.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
Of course checking the clearances - all clearances - is critical, but your post suggested a good deal of machine work without context.
Not the case. My post suggested checking for adequate clearances, how to determine those clearances, what the recommended safety margin is and the options available to obtain them if there are issues found. Some of those options require no machine work, just different retainers or locks. My point was to inform the OP and make sure he didn't assume he could just bolt these on out of the box without checking, these would be common mistakes to those unfamiliar with the procedure and unaware of some of the potential problems. As stated some might be fine, some might require modification or different parts selection. Some might require machining the guides and/or spring seats to fit upgrade springs. Depends on the combination and parts used.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 02:32 PM
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Machining the tops of the guides for clearance and a different seal is not very complicated or hard to do. The cutting tool is readily available and not very expensive. The ones I've done I did on my head machine, but you can do it with a hand drill.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Not the case.
We'll agree to disagree...

"You can machine the tops of the guides..."
"Also these have pressed rocker studs. I have seen these pull..."
".414/.428 lift cam and at that they are pushing the generally recommended safety margin." (utter nonsense)

With a cam in the right lift range, the risk is low - I have yet to install a set that didn't have more than sufficient clearance with a .460 lift cam. How many OOTB Vortecs have you installed?

But once you start mucking about with machining and changing springs, you'll wish you bought different heads

Last edited by billla; Feb 8, 2014 at 11:41 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
We'll agree to disagree...

"You can machine the tops of the guides..."
"Also these have pressed rocker studs. I have seen these pull..."
".414/.428 lift cam and at that they are pushing the generally recommended safety margin." (utter nonsense)

With a cam in the right lift range, the risk is low - I have yet to install a set that didn't have more than sufficient clearance with a .460 lift cam. How many OOTB Vortecs have you installed?

But once you start mucking about with machining and changing springs, you'll wish you bought different heads
Read the original post. His plan is using a .477/.480 lift cam and changing the springs. I recommend he check clearance and gave him viable options if there is a problem which is very likely at those lift numbers according to you.
He should have bought different heads if this was the plan from the start. What are we arguing about? Seems we are in total agreement.
I have yet to install a set of Vortec heads. With the lift limits, different intake, centerbolt valve covers and self aligning rockers needed along with the pressed in studs, being iron heads and #80 seat pressure springs I have found it a better option and more cost effective to go aftermarket aluminum with correct springs, screw in studs and guide plates with the ability to use standard rockers, intakes, valve covers and get better flow on both sides on a performance build. Guess Im old school and not to smart. I had vortec heads on my boat. Added a TPI. It was a PITA but performed well. If I was looking for economical heads I would likely go with these: http://www.straubtechnologies.com/st...lunimum-heads/

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 7, 2014 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
He should have bought different heads
No, he should just leave the heads alone, buy the right cam and be done with it.

Changing out a $110 cam is certainly quicker, easier and cheaper than machining and spring/retainer/etc. replacement...and he can just leave the heads alone.

Vortecs are perfect for an inexpensive top - if they're targeted at anything else, they're a miss. That's the key point.

But this is pretty consistent with always noting that things "only cost a few dollars more" when in the end it's more like $1,000 more...

Last edited by billla; Feb 7, 2014 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 03:29 PM
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Way to go!!!

I also went with vortec heads and had them machined good too 600 lift. They are amazing & affordable keep us posted.
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