Vortec heads coming soon!
I never take before and after pics, so I started this to make me document the transition.
Starting with a 350 crate motor. Pics to follow, really.
(Please don't write telling me how I should have bought $1600 AFR head...I still have kids at home and this is affordable
)





is it my imagination that it seems there are more haters on this forum than there used to be?





Edit: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ds_valve_lift/
Last edited by 63mako; Feb 7, 2014 at 02:22 AM.
I put on brand new Cast Iron Dart Vortecs. $400 for the pair with the valves and springs. Aluminum seems to START at $1000 these days.
All prices have gone up though since I bought mine a couple years ago.
I would caution you to watch the lift. More than .5 and you have to change springs and such. I opted for .48 lift on in/ex and have no problem.
Vortecs immediately add 40 or so hp. Your 82 will not be the same car! Especially with intake, exhaust and a Holley!!!
You may have to think about suspension after all that
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

Whatever you do.....buy a high quality...................
$70 Kodak digital camera!
(We need the pics!)
Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 7, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
NEW press-in studs aren't a problem - any head that's been hot tanked should have the studs pulled and replaced with screw-in studs, but that's not the case here.
The specifics here are important - the rockers need to be 1.5 ratio and self-aligning, and the spring installed height is key. Unless you're planning to turn over about 5500 RPM, I wouldn't get too wound up about changing the springs out.
More detail would be good to see exactly what you're doing and make sure that the parts all work together.
As an aside, the CHP article is junk as most of them are in that rag. If I subscribed, I'd keep it in the can - and not to read.
NEW press-in studs aren't a problem - any head that's been hot tanked should have the studs pulled and replaced with screw-in studs, but that's not the case here.
The specifics here are important - the rockers need to be 1.5 ratio and self-aligning, and the spring installed height is key. Unless you're planning to turn over about 5500 RPM, I wouldn't get too wound up about changing the springs out.
More detail would be good to see exactly what you're doing and make sure that the parts all work together.
As an aside, the CHP article is junk as most of them are in that rag. If I subscribed, I'd keep it in the can - and not to read.





Last edited by 63mako; Feb 7, 2014 at 01:28 PM.
There isn't a better stock GEN I head than the Vortec.





"You can machine the tops of the guides..."
"Also these have pressed rocker studs. I have seen these pull..."
".414/.428 lift cam and at that they are pushing the generally recommended safety margin." (utter nonsense)
With a cam in the right lift range, the risk is low - I have yet to install a set that didn't have more than sufficient clearance with a .460 lift cam. How many OOTB Vortecs have you installed?
But once you start mucking about with machining and changing springs, you'll wish you bought different heads
Last edited by billla; Feb 8, 2014 at 11:41 AM.





"You can machine the tops of the guides..."
"Also these have pressed rocker studs. I have seen these pull..."
".414/.428 lift cam and at that they are pushing the generally recommended safety margin." (utter nonsense)
With a cam in the right lift range, the risk is low - I have yet to install a set that didn't have more than sufficient clearance with a .460 lift cam. How many OOTB Vortecs have you installed?
But once you start mucking about with machining and changing springs, you'll wish you bought different heads

He should have bought different heads if this was the plan from the start. What are we arguing about? Seems we are in total agreement.
I have yet to install a set of Vortec heads. With the lift limits, different intake, centerbolt valve covers and self aligning rockers needed along with the pressed in studs, being iron heads and #80 seat pressure springs I have found it a better option and more cost effective to go aftermarket aluminum with correct springs, screw in studs and guide plates with the ability to use standard rockers, intakes, valve covers and get better flow on both sides on a performance build. Guess Im old school and not to smart. I had vortec heads on my boat. Added a TPI. It was a PITA but performed well. If I was looking for economical heads I would likely go with these: http://www.straubtechnologies.com/st...lunimum-heads/
Last edited by 63mako; Feb 7, 2014 at 03:42 PM.
Changing out a $110 cam is certainly quicker, easier and cheaper than machining and spring/retainer/etc. replacement...and he can just leave the heads alone.
Vortecs are perfect for an inexpensive top - if they're targeted at anything else, they're a miss. That's the key point.
But this is pretty consistent with always noting that things "only cost a few dollars more" when in the end it's more like $1,000 more...
Last edited by billla; Feb 7, 2014 at 03:44 PM.














