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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 03:57 PM
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Default Another remove rear rotors thread

I think I picked the worst project to start on with my '76. So far it's not been as strait forwarded as I'd hoped. We just got this car and I noticed that emergency break doesn't work so I thought that would be a good first project. I get rear right tire off and there is no rivets or emergency brake. the wire was cut off and the whole brake was missing. No problem, I bought a kit to just redo both of the back emergency break.

So now my problem...I'm trying to take off the other side rotor and even though I've drilled the rivets out, it won't budge. It's on there as tight as it was before I took the rivets out. Any suggestions on how to get it out? I've pounded a little on the inside of the rotor (probably a bad idea) but nothing works. What am I missing and how aggressive can I get with it? Thanks!
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 04:06 PM
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This is what I'm beating on...
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:03 PM
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Did you try adjusting the star wheel to loosen the e-brake shoes (move them inboard)?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 05:51 PM
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Sometimes they can be quite tight. After drilling out the rivets completely, I gave mine a couple good hard whacks with a 5 lb. hammer......popped right off. Don't be afraid to get aggressive.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 06:46 PM
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Soak the center hub area with your favorite penetrating solvent. Let it set for an hour or so and then get busy with a good size hammer between the studs.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Sometimes they can be quite tight. After drilling out the rivets completely, I gave mine a couple good hard whacks with a 5 lb. hammer......popped right off. Don't be afraid to get aggressive.

I agree
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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Just got done with my brakes, they just aint fun. My left rear was froze from a caliper leak, I took a punch and jus broke the internals the rotor jus fell off. I had a guy I work with put them back together ( I don't have much patience at times). We used stainless where we could, I got got my parts from the local Vette guru. He did not recommend stainless spring he said there to stiff to work with.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 03:03 AM
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Thank you all for the advice. I've made sure that the star wheel is very compressed all the way and I've soaked it with WD-40. I spend about 10 minutes just pounding on it but no luck yet. I'm going to let it sit over night and hopefully that WD-40 will loosen it up. Wow what pain!
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 11:01 AM
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WD-40 is not the best stuff for the job. It kind of sets on the surface. Get something like PB Blaster or Kroil. My personal favorite is Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
WD-40 is not the best stuff for the job. It kind of sets on the surface. Get something like PB Blaster or Kroil. My personal favorite is Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent.
The WD stands for Water Displacement. It is not a penetrating oil. If WD-40 gets it off then it wasn't that rusty in the first place.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 12:41 PM
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Penetrating oil on the hub and around the lug nuts, heat. There is also a freezing spray you could try. You might be able to get a puller into the 2 holes for the parking brake adjustment. BFH.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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Hey, thank you all for the advice... I'm learning! I'll be sure to get the right kind of penetrating oil next time. It seems the WD-40 worked. The morning I gave it a few good whacks and it came off...FINALLY... Now the hard work begins!
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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I am about to start the same project on parking brakes... What are the riviets you speak of drilling out?
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HwyFever
I am about to start the same project on parking brakes... What are the riviets you speak of drilling out?
If you have to ask that question I suggest you take your car to a Corvette shop. Plus, it can be a very frustrating procedure even if you mechanically inclined.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by HwyFever
I am about to start the same project on parking brakes... What are the riviets you speak of drilling out?
The rotors are riveted to the stub axle from the factory to match parts to get the correct run-out on the rotor face. These have to be drilled out to remove them. Make sure to mark the position for reassembly, and do a search to learn all you can about Corvette brakes. They need to be done correctly to achieve max performance and a good solid pedal.

Last edited by Mick71; Feb 10, 2014 at 03:28 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HwyFever
I am about to start the same project on parking brakes... What are the riviets you speak of drilling out?
Hey, You gotta start somewhere... Look at the picture I posted above and you'll see 5 counter sunk holes. They might have rivets in which case you'll use a 1/4 bit to drill into them about 3/4 inch. After that use a chisel to pop the heads off and then you can push the rest of the rivets inward. Good luck, it's a pain in the butt. In my case anyway.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 05:25 PM
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Sorry Mijohnst, I am not trying to hyjack your thread here, but I am trying to learn. Thanks for the replies. Thegazman, I apprecate your concern. Mine is a project car and not a daily driver. I am not so proud to seek out a professional if not completely confident. Just trying to learn... Thanks guys...
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HwyFever
Sorry Mijohnst, I am not trying to hyjack your thread here, but I am trying to learn. Thanks for the replies. Thegazman, I apprecate your concern. Mine is a project car and not a daily driver. I am not so proud to seek out a professional if not completely confident. Just trying to learn... Thanks guys...
Oh, don't be sorry. I'm new here too. It's nice to come to a place where there are so many experts. I think they understand us noobies and I'm glad they take the time to share their advice.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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I got the same year. "Soak - Set - Hit - Repeat". It will come off.

Mine was all original and it took a pretty good whack to get it to "pop". Once done it was clear sailing after that.
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