Another remove rear rotors thread
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 3
From: Madison AL
Another remove rear rotors thread
I think I picked the worst project to start on with my '76. So far it's not been as strait forwarded as I'd hoped. We just got this car and I noticed that emergency break doesn't work so I thought that would be a good first project. I get rear right tire off and there is no rivets or emergency brake. the wire was cut off and the whole brake was missing. No problem, I bought a kit to just redo both of the back emergency break.
So now my problem...I'm trying to take off the other side rotor and even though I've drilled the rivets out, it won't budge. It's on there as tight as it was before I took the rivets out. Any suggestions on how to get it out? I've pounded a little on the inside of the rotor (probably a bad idea) but nothing works. What am I missing and how aggressive can I get with it? Thanks!
So now my problem...I'm trying to take off the other side rotor and even though I've drilled the rivets out, it won't budge. It's on there as tight as it was before I took the rivets out. Any suggestions on how to get it out? I've pounded a little on the inside of the rotor (probably a bad idea) but nothing works. What am I missing and how aggressive can I get with it? Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Sometimes they can be quite tight. After drilling out the rivets completely, I gave mine a couple good hard whacks with a 5 lb. hammer......popped right off. Don't be afraid to get aggressive.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Soak the center hub area with your favorite penetrating solvent. Let it set for an hour or so and then get busy with a good size hammer between the studs.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
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From: Mundelein Illinois
Racer
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 362
Likes: 11
From: MARSHALLVILLE OHIO
Just got done with my brakes, they just aint fun. My left rear was froze from a caliper leak, I took a punch and jus broke the internals the rotor jus fell off. I had a guy I work with put them back together ( I don't have much patience at times). We used stainless where we could, I got got my parts from the local Vette guru. He did not recommend stainless spring he said there to stiff to work with.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 105
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From: Madison AL
Thank you all for the advice. I've made sure that the star wheel is very compressed all the way and I've soaked it with WD-40. I spend about 10 minutes just pounding on it but no luck yet. I'm going to let it sit over night and hopefully that WD-40 will loosen it up. Wow what pain!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
WD-40 is not the best stuff for the job. It kind of sets on the surface. Get something like PB Blaster or Kroil. My personal favorite is Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
The WD stands for Water Displacement. It is not a penetrating oil. If WD-40 gets it off then it wasn't that rusty in the first place.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Penetrating oil on the hub and around the lug nuts, heat. There is also a freezing spray you could try. You might be able to get a puller into the 2 holes for the parking brake adjustment. BFH.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 3
From: Madison AL
Hey, thank you all for the advice... I'm learning! I'll be sure to get the right kind of penetrating oil next time. It seems the WD-40 worked. The morning I gave it a few good whacks and it came off...FINALLY... Now the hard work begins!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,363
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From: Bowtie, Pennsyltucky
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15,'21
The rotors are riveted to the stub axle from the factory to match parts to get the correct run-out on the rotor face. These have to be drilled out to remove them. Make sure to mark the position for reassembly, and do a search to learn all you can about Corvette brakes. They need to be done correctly to achieve max performance and a good solid pedal.
Last edited by Mick71; Feb 10, 2014 at 03:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 3
From: Madison AL
Hey, You gotta start somewhere... Look at the picture I posted above and you'll see 5 counter sunk holes. They might have rivets in which case you'll use a 1/4 bit to drill into them about 3/4 inch. After that use a chisel to pop the heads off and then you can push the rest of the rivets inward. Good luck, it's a pain in the butt. In my case anyway.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: So Cal California
Sorry Mijohnst, I am not trying to hyjack your thread here, but I am trying to learn. Thanks for the replies. Thegazman, I apprecate your concern. Mine is a project car and not a daily driver. I am not so proud to seek out a professional if not completely confident. Just trying to learn... Thanks guys...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 3
From: Madison AL
Sorry Mijohnst, I am not trying to hyjack your thread here, but I am trying to learn. Thanks for the replies. Thegazman, I apprecate your concern. Mine is a project car and not a daily driver. I am not so proud to seek out a professional if not completely confident. Just trying to learn... Thanks guys...
