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Balancer installation question

Old Feb 9, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Default Balancer installation question

My balancer started to slip, I started to smell some burnt rubber, and I noticed the timing mark was off.

I used a puller, and managed to remove the old balancer without any problem - the outer portion was about 3/4 an inch off the inner.

My question is - how do I stop the engine was turning so I can install the balancer?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 06:52 PM
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Put a piston stop or rope/bungee cord in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. Make sure its on the compression stroke so you don't press onto the valves.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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Put it in first gear! it wont spin then......
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mashman

My question is - how do I stop the engine was turning so I can install the balancer?
Can you rephrase that question so it makes sense?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
Can you rephrase that question so it makes sense?
was --> from
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 08:04 PM
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Manual trans- put it in gear and set the brakes.
Auto trans, remove the cover from the flexplate/convertor and wedge it with a prybar or big screwdriver.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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as mentioned above ,put it in gear and use a good tool to install the new balancer .you can remove the starter and put some thing into the flexplate .
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RBrid
was --> from
Thanks. Does anybody proofread what they write?
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:16 PM
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It sounds like you are trying to use the retaining bolt to install the damper. Use this tool and avoid the extra work in trying to hold the engine. The retaining bolt is not meant to pull the damper on. And whatever you do, don't hammer on the damper unless you want to destroy the crankshaft thrust bearing.
Attached Images  
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jcuprisi
It sounds like you are trying to use the retaining bolt to install the damper. Use this tool and avoid the extra work in trying to hold the engine. The retaining bolt is not meant to pull the damper on. And whatever you do, don't hammer on the damper unless you want to destroy the crankshaft thrust bearing.
You really should be using an installation tool, not the bolt that holds it.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:51 PM
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Here is a tool to hold the flywheel while you torque the balancer bolt.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Turner-Turning-Tool-Wrench-Flex-Plate-Holder-For-Most-Vehicles-/261127332579?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3ccc66e2e3&vxp=mtr
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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I use the correct tool as shown above and an impact wrench. The engine doesn't turn. I also throw the damper in the oven at about 170 degrees for about a half hour (when my wife isn't home) before I install it.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 04:02 AM
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Sorry, I should have mentioned that it is an automatic, and I have the installation tool. And yes, "was" should have been "from" in the original post - I'm on my phone, and not sure how autocorrect came up with that.

I was considering using a TDC stop, but was afraid of damaging the piston. I wasnt sure if that was the correct way to stop the engine from turning. I imagine there is a LOT of force being exerted on the crank when turning the installation nut.

I'm feeling a bit more comfortable with the idea of the prybar in the flexplate method, but wanted to hear what people who have actually done the job have done. Does anyone know of a con of this method versus a piston stop? I'm guessing the screwdriver should go between the flexplate and starter gears?

Last edited by Mashman; Feb 10, 2014 at 04:11 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Flyinace3
Here is a tool to hold the flywheel while you torque the balancer bolt.


Flywheel Turner Turning Tool Wrench Flex Plate Holder for Most Vehicles | eBay
Thanks, I think this is what I feel most confident about. I will see about borrowing or buying this tool. Do any of the parts shops loan out these tools?
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mashman
Sorry, I should have mentioned that it is an automatic, and I have the installation tool. And yes, "was" should have been "from" in the original post - I'm on my phone, and not sure how autocorrect came up with that.

I was considering using a TDC stop, but was afraid of damaging the piston. I wasnt sure if that was the correct way to stop the engine from turning. I imagine there is a LOT of force being exerted on the crank when turning the installation nut.

I'm feeling a bit more comfortable with the idea of the prybar in the flexplate method, but wanted to hear what people who have actually done the job have done. Does anyone know of a con of this method versus a piston stop? I'm guessing the screwdriver should go between the flexplate and starter gears?
Like mentioned above. The crank doesn't move if you use the balancer installer. Air gun or rachet doesn't matter
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 10:11 AM
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The torque spec for a gen 1 balancer is only 85 ft-lbs. If the spark plugs are in, I don't think you're going to turn the engine over (much). I've never done anything special or used any particular tool for installing gen 1 balancers ... manual nor auto.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Like mentioned above. The crank doesn't move if you use the balancer installer. Air gun or rachet doesn't matter
I'm a bit confused. Since the install tool screws into the crankshaft nose, and then you use the large nut to draw the balancer on, what is supposed to keep the crankshaft from turning?
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Mashman
I'm a bit confused. Since the install tool screws into the crankshaft nose, and then you use the large nut to draw the balancer on, what is supposed to keep the crankshaft from turning?

Like the picture of the tool in the above post. the tool has rotating spacers between the nut and the damper. The nut spins down not the damper and crank. This forum has posters that have probably never done these jobs.

this is picture of assembling my 427. I have a black impact socket on the front of the tool and I just ran down this ATI super Damper. No piston stops or something Holding the back of the crank.

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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Like the picture of the tool in the above post. the tool has rotating spacers between the nut and the damper. The nut spins down not the damper and crank. This forum has posters that have probably never done these jobs.

this is picture of assembling my 427. I have a black impact socket on the front of the tool and I just ran down this ATI super Damper. No piston stops or something Holding the back of the crank.

Thanks for the reply.

I think I see the confusion.

If I understand correctly, you have a socket on the end of the tool, and while holding the socket, you tighten the nut, which runs down the rod, pushing the damper as it goes - is that correct?

If that's correct, what would you do if the engine is in the car, and you can't get a socket, or wrench, on the end of the tool?
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 12:06 PM
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LOL I broke two of those tools in a row! 1st I had used once before and the part that goes into he crank necked down too almost nothing(cheap tool, metal was junk). It seemed to be never ending and when I pulled the tool too check, I saw the almost bad time. Went out got a rent a tool too finish the job and that one snapped right off in the crank just as it got tight, but the end was loose after the break and I was able too get it out with ,my fingers. 3rd tool(a brand new one) I finished it and made sure it was nice and snug.
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