New Engine question
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Pinehurst NC
New Engine question
So long story short, bought a new 383 did the break in, drove the car for 32 miles and blew the transmission front seal (didn't shim the TQ converter right, that is a different story will do writes up for it all later).
Any who my question now is. Due to having a baby and other things coming up the car has sat for about 7 months now. What is the thought on just cranking it up or should I pull the distributor and with the drill and adapter re-oil the engine? It has sat for like I said about 7 months not being cranked up and only drove 32 miles after the engine initial break in run.
What are your thoughts or experiences??
Thanks.
Full write up with engine swap and pics will be coming once I get the tranny fixed again this month!! I will say she drove pretty nice those 32 miles before the seal went.
Any who my question now is. Due to having a baby and other things coming up the car has sat for about 7 months now. What is the thought on just cranking it up or should I pull the distributor and with the drill and adapter re-oil the engine? It has sat for like I said about 7 months not being cranked up and only drove 32 miles after the engine initial break in run.
What are your thoughts or experiences??
Thanks.
Full write up with engine swap and pics will be coming once I get the tranny fixed again this month!! I will say she drove pretty nice those 32 miles before the seal went.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I can't see it hurting anything to just start it up, but it won't hurt a thing to pull the distributor and see some oil pressure first either.
I'm also curious about the "shim the TQ" comment too. I'll be looking for that thread. That is a new one to me.
I'm also curious about the "shim the TQ" comment too. I'll be looking for that thread. That is a new one to me.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Chino CA
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Pinehurst NC
Yeah I got a new TQ converter when I had the transmission rebuilt, but was an idiot and didn't check the gap or shim it to the flex plate right, just used the old shims that was there for the old one, apparently they were not the right size because I am 99% sure I had the TQ converter pulled too far forward and that is why the front seal blew. Car ran great for 32 miles driving it slow and easy, first time I got on it decent and built up pressure in the transmission the front seal gave way and it just dumps fluid like it is cool. Lesson learned the hard way.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
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From: Chino CA
Yeah I got a new TQ converter when I had the transmission rebuilt, but was an idiot and didn't check the gap or shim it to the flex plate right, just used the old shims that was there for the old one, apparently they were not the right size because I am 99% sure I had the TQ converter pulled too far forward and that is why the front seal blew. Car ran great for 32 miles driving it slow and easy, first time I got on it decent and built up pressure in the transmission the front seal gave way and it just dumps fluid like it is cool. Lesson learned the hard way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
i'm nearly due to re-install my new engine in the '72, trans still in car.
there where no shims anywhere when i removed my tq convertor.
i just undid the bolts thru the flex plate, and slid the tq convertor backwards untill the front location was clear.
the thrust faces on my old crank were stuffed, had to get a new crank.
possibly caused by too much forward pressure ??
so can someone please explain these "shims" that you are talking about?
photo's?
Last edited by riverracer au; Feb 10, 2014 at 08:51 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I'd like to see some instruction or at the least pictures of the shims. I rebuilt transmissions when I was working in the dealers and still build a few once in a while. Never have had any information on any kind of shim for the convertors.
A front seal can pop because the return "drainback" is plugged, or the front pump bushing is worn or not installed correctly. Should be very little pressure behind that seal unless one of the two items above are causing it.
A front seal can pop because the return "drainback" is plugged, or the front pump bushing is worn or not installed correctly. Should be very little pressure behind that seal unless one of the two items above are causing it.
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Racer
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Just a thought... how about pulling the coil wire, let it crank until oil pressure shows, re-attatch the the coil wire and then fire it up.
It sure would eliminate the need to pull the distibutor to 'prime' the engine again.
Good luck on you new mill.
It sure would eliminate the need to pull the distibutor to 'prime' the engine again.
Good luck on you new mill.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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On the engine priming idea- the reality is that by the time the distributor is re-installed and wires hooked up, the vast majority of oil has drained back to the pan.
The difference between that condition and an engine that has sat for a year or years is negligible.
People have been storing cars, bikes, boats etc. during the off season for many decades without issue.
Turn the key and go.
The difference between that condition and an engine that has sat for a year or years is negligible.
People have been storing cars, bikes, boats etc. during the off season for many decades without issue.
Turn the key and go.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
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From: Chino CA
On the engine priming idea- the reality is that by the time the distributor is re-installed and wires hooked up, the vast majority of oil has drained back to the pan.
The difference between that condition and an engine that has sat for a year or years is negligible.
People have been storing cars, bikes, boats etc. during the off season for many decades without issue.
Turn the key and go.
The difference between that condition and an engine that has sat for a year or years is negligible.
People have been storing cars, bikes, boats etc. during the off season for many decades without issue.
Turn the key and go.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
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From: New York
This is very rare what the o/p describes.. So you put a t/c in deep enough to drive the pump yet not deep enough for the front seal. Then you drive 32 miles and spring a leak ?
Yes you can need to space a t/c .... Thats to ensure the converter neck is set correctly into the pump drive , the shimming is not to make sure it does not leak out of the front seal.
You need to pull trans , get the pump out and have a new bushing and seal installed and at the very least clean the t/q neck surface or replace the t/c
Yes you can need to space a t/c .... Thats to ensure the converter neck is set correctly into the pump drive , the shimming is not to make sure it does not leak out of the front seal.
You need to pull trans , get the pump out and have a new bushing and seal installed and at the very least clean the t/q neck surface or replace the t/c
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
[QUOTE=Korevette;1586142446]Just a thought... how about pulling the coil wire, let it crank until oil pressure shows, re-attatch the the coil wire and then fire it up.
It sure would eliminate the need to pull the distibutor to 'prime' the engine again.
Good luck on you new mill.[/QUOTe
That's exactly what I would do! Just crank it until you get oil pressure and then let it fire up. I do that every Spring on mine after sitting 4 months. I also prime my 10 Z06 after it sits for a while!
It sure would eliminate the need to pull the distibutor to 'prime' the engine again.
Good luck on you new mill.[/QUOTe
That's exactly what I would do! Just crank it until you get oil pressure and then let it fire up. I do that every Spring on mine after sitting 4 months. I also prime my 10 Z06 after it sits for a while!