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It's absolutely coolant, disgustingly sweet smelling and lots of it... but the oil isn't milky, and it only smokes when it's cold out (freezing) when it's warm there's no evidence of the problem, so I'm curious as to your guy's ideas as to what it could be... outside of things like the usual head gasket etc. None of the weird post smog systems have anything to do with coolant do they?
It's a 1978 l82 anniversary edition... it smokes constantly even after its warmed up, I'm new to the forum, so how would I go about uploading a video? And I'll check the coolant level tomorrow morning to see where I'm at.. I appreciate your response
It's a 1978 l82 anniversary edition... it smokes constantly even after its warmed up, I'm new to the forum, so how would I go about uploading a video? And I'll check the coolant level tomorrow morning to see where I'm at.. I appreciate your response
Usually the first item to cause smoke on a older sbc is the valve stem seals. Is the smoke blue tinged at all ?
It might be the faintest blue, but there's discharge from the exhaust onto the pavement that smells sweet like coolant, I'll try to figure out how to upload and get a video here tomorrow when there's light out
On the assumption that you are actually losing coolant, you may have a very slight crack in a head gasket or head that is allowing coolant into one of the cylinders. Your oil will not look milky.
If you are loosing coolant, pull the spark plugs and have a look at them. It should be obvious which one is different from the others/has coolant on it.
If it is continuous...even 'smoking' after it has fully warmed up...you've likely blown a head gasket. It could be a minor tear between a cylinder and a coolant passage; but that will make a LOT of white steam (not really smoke, as no oil will be in it). Change the bad head gasket and all will be OK. (Check plugs to find out which side it's on.)
Your burning anti freeze with white smoke because the cylinder is getting coolant .......try this simple test and remove the radiator cap to the first notch taking pressure off......I suspect you have a blown head gasket and with no pressure the cylinders affected should clean up to a degree and should actually cool down and be drivable in an emergency
On the assumption that you are actually loosing coolant, you may have a very slight crack in a head gasket or head that is allowing coolant into one of the cylinders. Your oil will not look milky.
If you are loosing coolant, pull the spark plugs and have a look at them. It should be obvious which one is different from the others/has coolant on it.
No 2 leaks are alike. Just because the head gasket isn't compromised such that coolant is contaminating the oil doesn't mean it isn't getting into a cylinder.
Thank you all so much for your input, the coolant level is fine.. maybe just a little low but that red convertible is exactly what I'm having, it doesn't stop after its warmed up to operating temperature... it's going to be 60 tomorrow so I'll test it out and see how it looks... I'm active duty air force and about to pcs, it's going on a trailer either way, but I'd be at peace knowing I won't have to tear apart the top end
So I held a white paper towel to it and it was clear, just the amount of vapor is disconcerting, it's also missing in one of the cylinders, but I have plugs ready to go... I feel like an idiot, but thanks for all the help and its a pleasure to be a new member to the forum
So I held a white paper towel to it and it was clear, just the amount of vapor is disconcerting, it's also missing in one of the cylinders, but I have plugs ready to go... I feel like an idiot, but thanks for all the help and its a pleasure to be a new member to the forum
The only way you're going to see any colored water in your exhaust is if the coolant leak is so bad that some of it is making it out your tailpipe without being vaporized first.
:/ dang, I was hoping that I was just wrong about it, its gonna warm up soon, and this has been sudden, mind you its never overheated and I haven't driven like a jack*ss since I got the car... if I have to do the gaskets it would be a good time to replace valve seals too... any opinions on those testers for the coolant system that turns blue to yellow if it gets co exposure?
The only way you're going to see any colored water in your exhaust is if the coolant leak is so bad that some of it is making it out your tailpipe without being vaporized first.
The boiling point of ethylene glycol is 387*F. It will make it through the exhaust system easily at cold startup if it is present. And it should not be.
So I held a white paper towel to it and it was clear, just the amount of vapor is disconcerting, it's also missing in one of the cylinders, but I have plugs ready to go... I feel like an idiot, but thanks for all the help and its a pleasure to be a new member to the forum
If you do have a head gasket leak, it is possible you will see signs on your spark plugs. I just went thru this last month. the offending cylinders will have plugs that are way cleaner than they should be as a result of "steam cleaning".
The boiling point of ethylene glycol is 387*F. It will make it through the exhaust system easily at cold startup if it is present. And it should not be.
Ethylene glycol is clear. The green comes from a dye which will either precipitate out upon vaporization of the solute and/or simply combust. Furthermore the easiest way to motivate the coolant out an exhaust port is to vaporize it. You'd have to have a lot of it slinging around the cylinder in order to toss it up and out an exhaust port in liquid form. Additionally you have to get it past the catalytic converters (which btw get very hot very quickly), all the exhaust piping and the mufflers themselves which btw often have weep holes in them anyway.
I'm not trying to call you out. But I have seen a LOT of engines ingesting coolant, and I've NEVER seen one spitting anything out the tailpipe other team pure white water vapor. I'm not saying it isn't possible, but I would think that if you actually have so much coolant moving through the engine that you're still seeing green dye out of the tailpipe then that vehicle is not driveable, and is probably 2 steps away from hydrolocking itself.