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Alternative To DeWitts?

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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:19 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jim-81
dang! these radiator threads always get hot!

I got a Dewitt's and it works fine. Just went on the recommendations of others here.

Jim
Hey Jim, BeCool now...
Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #22  
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Send me your address and I will ship you a 1st grade dictionary.

Never heard a 1st grader use disparage. Heard them use a lot nastier words though.

Never heard a grease monkey use disparage either. But its ok, we can share our corvettes with preppies too.

Hey its friday, u have to do better than that to hurt my feelings today.

cardo0
Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 69ttop502
Well, show me where "I" have ever disparaged anybody's radiator choice. Since you quoted me, you must have knowledge that I have done this.
I quoted you because I thought your statement was hilarious. The rest was a generalization.
Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:43 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cardo0
Send me your address and I will ship you a 1st grade dictionary.

Never heard a 1st grader use disparage. Heard them use a lot nastier words though.

Never heard a grease monkey use disparage either. But its ok, we can share our corvettes with preppies too.

Hey its friday, u have to do better than that to hurt my feelings today.

cardo0
Didn't you see my smiley. Preppy huh. No reason you can't use big words and work on a Corvette too I don't think. I wil try to use smaller words from here on out.

In googling that radiator it seems as if it is well liked.
Old Feb 14, 2014 | 06:33 PM
  #25  
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
14 year member, impressive
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 04:36 PM
  #27  
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As an outside observer (I have never replaced a radiator in a Corvette) I think I see the problem here. When someone asks about a mid priced radiator often the answer is, "Why go cheap buy an expensive radiator." In fact that was the second response to the OP. I think some people are saying why not respond to the OP's question with some helpful information related to their question rather than giving a generic "pay more" response. Now, I have a question about what's the best oil to use..............
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 04:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Teem66
As an outside observer (I have never replaced a radiator in a Corvette) I think I see the problem here. When someone asks about a mid priced radiator often the answer is, "Why go cheap buy an expensive radiator." In fact that was the second response to the OP. I think some people are saying why not respond to the OP's question with some helpful information related to their question rather than giving a generic "pay more" response. Now, I have a question about what's the best oil to use..............
From what I've learned on this thread is if you didn't pay ten dollars per quart, you bought cheap oil.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Patro46
From what I've learned on this thread is if you didn't pay ten dollars per quart, you bought cheap oil.
You can buy Mobil 1 European formula 0W-40 for about $5 a quart in a 5 quart container. It is one of the few "true" synthetics available. Sell it at Walmart. 1000+ PPM ZDDP. That said there are cheaper alternatives to DeWitt. They are also lower quality. Use what you want. I got a DeWitt radiator and run Amsoil AMO 10W-40 at $8.50 a quart. The way I figure it if I overheat my engine and trash it or have an oil related failure when not using these I would kick myself for it. If I don't have a problem there is no way to prove it was because I used quality products. Some people buy AFR heads, some buy Procomp for 1/2 the money. I have seen Procomp heads drop a valve and trash an expensive BB tripower engine. I will buy an American made high quality product over the cheapest available. You can do what you want and for you to disparage the decisions made by those that choose to do things the way I do is your option. I raced for 30 years. Learned you get what you pay for. saving a few bucks going in might cost you 10 or 20 times the price difference as the end result. Been there, done that, it sucks! Ask the guy that destroyed his Tripower Big Block What he put on it after the $10,000 lesson. My oil change cost $50 a year. Using cheap oil cost $20. At $30 a year difference over 20 years that is $600. How much is a rebuild?

Edit: Had to use "disparage" in a post!

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 15, 2014 at 07:10 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Patro46
From what I've learned on this thread is if you didn't pay ten dollars per quart, you bought cheap oil.
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #31  
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Curious....out of the 30+ posts, how many were helpful?

Originally Posted by Patro46
From what I've learned on this thread is if you didn't pay ten dollars per quart, you bought cheap oil.
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 07:43 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Garys 68
Curious....out of the 30+ posts, how many were helpful?
Ok I will bite. The reason your aren't getting any replies about this radiator is because 95 percent of us are using Dewitts when replacing radiators, not too hard to figure out. Look, the reason I said what I said is because of the swipes at Dewitts and people that recommend them. I recommend them because I would prefer you all to have the same experience as I do with a quality product and service. I have two of their radiators and couldn't be happier. A simple google search on Superior radiator will give you an impression of them, but, obviously here not many have used them. I will say there are places you can skimp a little, but a radiator wouldn't be where I would.

I look at it this way, that radiator may be fine, but if it isn't, can you afford to do it again. Or will you get the customer service to make it right. I don't know, and I certainly don't give a damn what radiator anyone uses. Hell use it and tell us how it works.

But I know with Dewitts the quality is guaranteed and the service is second to none. I am done with this thread.

Bill
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 07:49 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
You can buy Mobil 1 European formula 0W-40 for about $5 a quart in a 5 quart container. It is one of the few "true" synthetics available. Sell it at Walmart. 1000+ PPM ZDDP. That said there are cheaper alternatives to DeWitt. They are also lower quality. Use what you want. I got a DeWitt radiator and run Amsoil AMO 10W-40 at $8.50 a quart. The way I figure it if I overheat my engine and trash it or have an oil related failure when not using these I would kick myself for it. If I don't have a problem there is no way to prove it was because I used quality products. Some people buy AFR heads, some buy Procomp for 1/2 the money. I have seen Procomp heads drop a valve and trash an expensive BB tripower engine. I will buy an American made high quality product over the cheapest available. You can do what you want and for you to disparage the decisions made by those that choose to do things the way I do is your option. I raced for 30 years. Learned you get what you pay for. saving a few bucks going in might cost you 10 or 20 times the price difference as the end result. Been there, done that, it sucks! Ask the guy that destroyed his Tripower Big Block What he put on it after the $10,000 lesson. My oil change cost $50 a year. Using cheap oil cost $20. At $30 a year difference over 20 years that is $600. How much is a rebuild?

Edit: Had to use "disparage" in a post!
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 07:58 PM
  #34  
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The alternative to DeWitts is over heating



No there are other good radiators out there, but I'm happy with my DeWitts

Old Feb 15, 2014 | 08:00 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cardo0
Dont worry "disparage" is catching on. Even the special education types are using it.

cardo0
I see that! Good job! We are proud of your progress!
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
You can buy Mobil 1 European formula 0W-40 for about $5 a quart in a 5 quart container. It is one of the few "true" synthetics available. Sell it at Walmart. 1000+ PPM ZDDP. That said there are cheaper alternatives to DeWitt. They are also lower quality. Use what you want. I got a DeWitt radiator and run Amsoil AMO 10W-40 at $8.50 a quart. The way I figure it if I overheat my engine and trash it or have an oil related failure when not using these I would kick myself for it. If I don't have a problem there is no way to prove it was because I used quality products. Some people buy AFR heads, some buy Procomp for 1/2 the money. I have seen Procomp heads drop a valve and trash an expensive BB tripower engine. I will buy an American made high quality product over the cheapest available. You can do what you want and for you to disparage the decisions made by those that choose to do things the way I do is your option. I raced for 30 years. Learned you get what you pay for. saving a few bucks going in might cost you 10 or 20 times the price difference as the end result. Been there, done that, it sucks! Ask the guy that destroyed his Tripower Big Block What he put on it after the $10,000 lesson. My oil change cost $50 a year. Using cheap oil cost $20. At $30 a year difference over 20 years that is $600. How much is a rebuild?

Edit: Had to use "disparage" in a post!
I didn't see that disparage. Nice Mako.
Old Feb 15, 2014 | 08:40 PM
  #37  
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To the OP, choose whatever radiator your budget allows. There are vendors willing to help. DeWitts is just one.

Some of us select parts and pieces for their form, fit, function, price, and ability to fit well in a certain combination. This forum can help to decide but ultimately, you know the choice is yours.

I was fortunate to learn about and afford a DeWitts product. It has served my particular needs perfectly, for many trouble-free miles. I haven't got any comparison data on another vendor so sorry, no help.

If you don't mind, let us know what you install and Good Luck, whatever you choose.
Old Feb 16, 2014 | 12:01 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by waljr
I wonder how the matching radiator out of that saab would work?
That's a good question. We had to use a come along to get the radiator support pulled out enough to even get the fan out. The radiator and condenser as well as the electric fan shroud was bent beyond belief. Once out, the fan shroud assembly straightened out with no breaks, cracks, ect. The radiator wasn't so lucky. Plastic radiators don't seem to fare well when bent. Frankly, I dunno how the fan shroud survived.

On another note, I wonder why the C3, LSx conversion radiators have both supply and return on the same tank side. Looking at an F body radiator, one on one tank the other on the other tank. Must be a valid reason. Maybe someone has a valid answer?.
Old Feb 16, 2014 | 12:10 AM
  #39  
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