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Each one get easier because I know how my 427's and later 434 ran or should say still run.
Dart little M block, Callies rotating kit, 11.7 compression, AFR 245 cc heads, 17/8th merge collector headers into full length 3 inch with x pipe. 7500 rpm red line. I had a cam made very much like my 4/7 swap sollid roller, but easier on the valve springs
Each one get easier because I know how my 427's and later 434 ran or should say still run.
Dart little M block, Callies rotating kit, 11.7 compression, AFR 245 cc heads, 17/8th merge collector headers into full length 3 inch with x pipe. 7500 rpm red line. I had a cam made very much like my 4/7 swap sollid roller, but easier on the valve springs
This should be interesting. Are you going to dyno this combo? 11.7 compression, what fuel? What are the specs on the camshaft?
All of my motors from 383 - 434 have been in the 11.2 - 11.7 range and they all run fine on the local 91 super unleaded. I also tend to stay around 110 lobe centers and later valve event numbers for flatter extended torque curve, higher MPG, higher vacuum, and all around better manners for street machines.
So from the Comp Cams Lobe profile catolog: I choose # 4009 intake lobes and #4008 exhaust. I have some extra sets of 1.6 and 1.7 CC steel roller rockers
SOLID ROLLER
HI-TECH™ .420" ROLLERS
The Hi-Tech™ .420" Rollers are primarily used in oval track racing with good cylinder heads. The ramp designs are easy on
valve springs yet produce good power. They are great for long rod motors. They are also popular in bracket and marine applications
where power with durability are a must. Also available in Small Block Ford and Big Block Chevy or 50mm sizes to
prevent "cam growth" in the grinding process, allowing the engine builder to have more control over the tuning process.
Camshaft Type Lobe # Rated
That is a .450" minimum offset rocker so you will be making a call for shaft rockers. It also needs a .180" offset lifter. To put a 3/8" pushrods in the engine requires extensive grinding. I would not run an .842" lifter with an offset. You will need to go to .903's.
That is a .450" minimum offset rocker so you will be making a call for shaft rockers. It also needs a .180" offset lifter. To put a 3/8" pushrods in the engine requires extensive grinding. I would not run an .842" lifter with an offset. You will need to go to .903's.
This is the part number on the box is below. The heads are coming with shaft rockers. I should have worded it better, T&D is a local company and at the race shop we have spares of offset rockers from 1.6 to 1.7. The owner bought most of the stuff from local Summit racing with head advice from AFR. I'm the assembler in a clean white room.
I know what you are saying about bigger diameter lifter bores. I received the machined and ready block with the balanced rotating assembly. All I have to do is file fit the rings, assemble, dial in the cam, deliver pan to intake buttoned up. My only input because the owner knows my vette was head choice, type of cam, quality of rotating assembly. He had the Dart little M already done. I would have steered him towards a raised cam Dart tall block and bigger lifter bores. Also i would have got away from a 23 degree style head and gone to spread exhaust ports and just went with custom 2 inch headers. For the money of these AFRs he could have got used 14 -18 degree heads off some old sprint car and custom headers.
I'm guessing 625ish. Gonna depend on if its fuel injected and how much timing it will take on the 91 pump gas I'd guess.
With a carb and some 100 octane-I'd bet 660-670 easy........
Am I close gkull??
The heads are capable of making 700HP on a large CID SB. A .180" offset on an .842" lifter is asking to much. It's not a question of if it will fail but when. The .903 give much more wheel diameter and width and distributes the load better. The pushrod even with an offset lifter will be at an angle. This will amplify wear.
The heads are capable of making 700HP on a large CID SB. A .180" offset on an .842" lifter is asking to much. It's not a question of if it will fail but when. The .903 give much more wheel diameter and width and distributes the load better. The pushrod even with an offset lifter will be at an angle. This will amplify wear.
Thanks, I will talk to the owner about taking his block back to the machine shop
Tektrans, I'm running 11.8 to 1 in my 406. My cam is 6 degrees shorter than the one George has specked out here and the intakes closes 3 degrees earlier. I run my quench very tight, .034", which helps tame detonation. With careful tuning on both the carb and ignition I had zero detonation on 93 octane fuel. I ran mostly BP 93 when this engine was in my 80. 93 is getting harder to find around here though so when I get the 75 done, I may have to make a change in fuel or cam.
Last edited by v2racing; Feb 21, 2014 at 12:14 PM.
Tektrans, I'm running 11.8 to 1 in my 406. My cam is 6 degrees shorter than the one George has specked out here and the intakes closes 3 degrees earlier. I run my quench very tight, .034", which helps tame detonation. Will careful tuning on both the carb and ignition I had zero detonation on 93 octane fuel I ran mostly BP 93 when this engine was in my 80. 93 is getting harder to find around here though so when I get the 75 done, I may have to make a change in fuel or cam.
The RS/SS 67 Camaro street machine now with a five speed that I sold last summer. It is a long sad story of not having it insured while it was being restored. It finally got done over a 2 year period and right out of the paint shop just in time for Hot Augusts Nights cars shows. It got stolen out of my friends driveway and it was found completely stripped a month later. Just the gutted body with roller wheels on it in the hispanic ghetto part of town. They steal so many cars around here that they started that Bait car program.
I just didn't have another $15K to redo do it. So I offed the car and he is going for the pro street/race car. So with the economy so slow I'm just going to do cash side jobs and give the boss a cut for using the shop
The RS/SS 67 Camaro street machine now with a five speed that I sold last summer. It is a long sad story of not having it insured while it was being restored. It finally got done over a 2 year period and right out of the paint shop just in time for Hot Augusts Nights cars shows. It got stolen out of my friends driveway and it was found completely stripped a month later. Just the gutted body with roller wheels on it in the hispanic ghetto part of town. They steal so many cars around here that they started that Bait car program.
I just didn't have another $15K to redo do it. So I offed the car and he is going for the pro street/race car. So with the economy so slow I'm just going to do cash side jobs and give the boss a cut for using the shop
Owww, that hurts! I know when we were doing the show in downtown Reno we had to have guards on duty. Even then the thieves were still getting stuff. Three guys tried to steal my laptop I use to show graphs and such right in front of me and a security guard. You got some real fine people out there!
It is going to be a killer car. Some local road shop is doing a tube frame 4 wheel coil overs and slightly narrowed rear end.
My 434 cam has nearly identical @.200 durations numbers, but 6 degrees less at .050. So I just go through spring with 1.65 intake and 1.7 exhaust. When i rebuilt it I went with 1.6 ratio to make it last longer and I wasn't worried about having slightly less power
It is going to be a killer car. Some local road shop is doing a tube frame 4 wheel coil overs and slightly narrowed rear end.
My 434 cam has nearly identical @.200 durations numbers, but 6 degrees less at .050. So I just go through spring with 1.65 intake and 1.7 exhaust. When i rebuilt it I went with 1.6 ratio to make it last longer and I wasn't worried about having slightly less power