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Tomorrow will replace rotors calipers and master cylinder. After reading a lot here, I feel am making a mistake replacing rotors. Just bought car and rust is very bad as brake fluid has been leaking for some time with previous owner. Want to start fresh. Rotors never been turned. 50K original miles. Calipers are SS lined with lip seals.
Can't say much about the rotors without seeing them, some flaking in the vents isn't necessarily all that bad, heavy rust / pitting in the surfaces would be a concern, etc. Pics would help.
One thing to remember is that if you change rotors you'll need to check the run-out and possibly (likely) re-shim.
M
At the very least they need a real good cleaning and then a proper turning.
Honestly, I'd probably go ahead and install a new set. Relatively cheap and will likely never need to be done again as long as you own the car.
Don't forget to index and mark them and check the run-out
My .02
M
Oh, and I've seen way worse being driven, doesn't mean they should have been but they were, also, those you have could probably be brought back up to snuff but it's not likely worth the effort, most replacements are fairly cheap until you get into some performance sets.
At the very least they need a real good cleaning and then a proper turning.
Honestly, I'd probably go ahead and install a new set. Relatively cheap and will likely never need to be done again as long as you own the car.
Don't forget to index and mark them and check the run-out
My .02
M
Oh, and I've seen way worse being driven, doesn't mean they should have been but they were, also, those you have could probably be brought back up to snuff but it's not likely worth the effort, most replacements are fairly cheap until you get into some performance sets.
Wobbly rotors account for most of our problems. If you don't get them right, you will always have problems.
The fronts are easy. Pull the hubs/rotors and get them turned together. Don't remove the rivets unless you have to replace the rotor.
Rears are harder. Either have them machined on the car (I think about $50ea), or you will probably have to use shims if you remove the rotors. The rotor run out correction plates/shims from Rockauto or Napa work well ($15-$18 ea).
Stock rotors seldom need to be replaced. Looks like yours have been off the car in the past. Mic yours. If they are to spec and run out is good, leave them. There are two common misconceptions about these cars: rotors have to be replaced and you have to have an aluminum radiator. Neither is true.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Feb 23, 2014 at 11:00 AM.
Stock rotors seldom need to be replaced. Looks like yours have been off the car in the past. Mic yours. If they are to spec and run out is good, leave them. There are two common misconceptions about these cars: rotors have to be replaced and you have to have an aluminum radiator. Neither is true.
Lay a straight-edge on the rotor face to see how much wear/grooves are present....maybe having them "turned/re-surfaced" will work....then you won't have poor braking or end up ruing a new set of pads.
My rotors and pads looked like yours....cleaning/sandblasting/rebuilding helps....
I was expecting far far worse. Do NOT turn or replace them.
Oh no. Too late. Only left rear had been off before. I pulled them all. Parking brake assembly was locking up, found spring broken. Plan to rebuild parking brake as well. Only caliper not leaking was on the rotor that had been off.