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OK, let's not get carried away. Spending other people's money is fun, but it could very easily just be a worn out rag joint, which would cost about 10 bucks and a Saturday afternoon of the OP's time. The main thing here is that you need to find out why the steering is so loose before you can fix it. Fire it up, chock the wheels real good, and have somebody move the steering wheel while you look for where the slop is. Look at the rag joint, steering box, tie rods, ball joints, etc. Front end rebuild kits are not very expensive.
Valve covers are easy to do. If you ask around, there is probably a place nearby that rebuilds starters and alternators, front wheel bearings are pretty easy, but the back ones are a b!tch, you need special tools, and the trailing arm really needs to come off, (which I still have bad dreams about.) It's a big job. The A/C could be something as simple as a pressure switch that is inop, but if it needs a recharge, take it to an A/C guy.
Just pick away at it, and get used to doing that, too. By the time you fix all these things, other problems will surface. It's just the cost of doing business when you are dealing with an old car, but I think it's worth it. You have to decide for yourself if it's worth it to you. Good luck!
Scott
Scott
Borgeson or Steeroids ?? to solve loose steering before diagnosing that the steering components are all good-Not a chance. Fix the basics first before even considering upgrading anything.
the good thing about the borgeson is you can replace all the tie rods and idler arm first to tighten up the steering, and if you decide to change the box to a borgeson, all your new parts will still work with it
Some very good advice you have received here. All in all, it doesn't sound all that bad compared to what some of us started with. Safety first, make it stop and turn, then deal with maintenance issues and finally esthetics.
So today I went out with another Airman, put it up on jacks, and had him wiggle the wheel, the column rotates about 20' each way before the box even moves the arm that attaches it to the rack, with the arm having some play too, all the tie rods etc. Were solid, it's the box... how much does the borgeson cost? Also I have the original maintenance manual that came with the car
So today I went out with another Airman, put it up on jacks, and had him wiggle the wheel, the column rotates about 20' each way before the box even moves the arm that attaches it to the rack, with the arm having some play too, all the tie rods etc. Were solid, it's the box... how much does the borgeson cost? Also I have the original maintenance manual that came with the car
Are you sure it's the steering box, and not the rag joint? The rag joint is a more likely suspect, and a lot easier fix, so it's worth making sure.
So today I went out with another Airman, put it up on jacks, and had him wiggle the wheel, the column rotates about 20' each way before the box even moves the arm that attaches it to the rack, with the arm having some play too, all the tie rods etc. Were solid, it's the box... how much does the borgeson cost? Also I have the original maintenance manual that came with the car
If it is the box, consider a custom blue print/rebuild of your oem box, by Gary Ramadei, GTR1999, over on digital corvettes.com for about $300. I had him do mine and it's better than when new! I believe Borgeson system is about $800.
What makes steeroids better than the borgeson system? I have ps, but wouldn't mind deleting it as I've owned cars w/o it before and even liked it more as I could actually FEEL the road through the wheel
What makes steeroids better than the borgeson system? I have ps, but wouldn't mind deleting it as I've owned cars w/o it before and even liked it more as I could actually FEEL the road through the wheel
@Scottyp99
The column to the box, there is rotational play, I dunno if it would be the rag joint or the box, but I'd like to just fix it instead of tear it apart, replace something, put it back together, and find out I was wrong
@Scottyp99
The column to the box, there is rotational play, I dunno if it would be the rag joint or the box, but I'd like to just fix it instead of tear it apart, replace something, put it back together, and find out I was wrong
Do you know what a rag joint is? It's in between the steering wheel and the steering box. It's a little flexible joint, sorta like a u-joint...kinda. It gives the steering column the ability to flex just a little bit, because the steering box is ridgidly mounted to the frame, and the body isn't, and can move a bit. the frame can flex a little bit, too. Anyway, if the rag joint is worn, the steering wheel will move before the steering box moves. I don't really understand what you mean in this post, because if the rag joint is bad, and the steering box is fine, and you replace the steering box, you'll still have the play in the steering wheel. In order to "just fix it instead of tear it apart, replace something, put it back together, and find out I was wrong" the first thing you have to do is figure out what is wrong.
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; Feb 24, 2014 at 09:37 AM.
Do you know what a rag joint is? It's in between the steering wheel and the steering box. It's a little flexible joint, sorta like a u-joint...kinda. It gives the steering column the ability to flex just a little bit, because the steering box is ridgidly mounted to the frame, and the body isn't, and can move a bit. the frame can flex a little bit, too. Anyway, if the rag joint is worn, the steering wheel will move before the steering box moves. I don't really understand what you mean in this post, because if the rag joint is bad, and the steering box is fine, and you replace the steering box, you'll still have the play in the steering wheel. In order to "just fix it instead of tear it apart, replace something, put it back together, and find out I was wrong" the first thing you have to do is figure out what is wrong.
Scott
The most likely cause is a worn rag joint, and replacing it is an easy/cheap fix.
The worm gear and bearings in a steering box will wear, and cause some slop, but you can adjust that. First make sure that the problem is not the rag joint, or anything else. If the slop is coming from the steering box, you can tighten the lash to remove the slop. Inside the box is a worm gear and bearings, over time they will wear and get loose, tightening the lash screw will tighten them up and remove the slop. On top of the box is slotted screw, and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut, and tighten the slotted screw - you should only need to go about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the screw. If you overtighten it, it's just going to cause the worm gear to wear very fast, and then you will need a new box.
, thanks guys, I'm not much of a steering/suspension guy, I'm better with engines but I bought this car expecting the opportunity to learn a little bit about everything, I'm just looking for direction with my plan of attack, and a bit of inspiration about my decision
Know the feeling but any used car even 10 yrs old will have its appetite for repairs. If you really like the car go for it little at a time, if you arent sure dump it.