engine won't start
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Yes. With ignition in run engine will start. Checked + side of coil with test light and switch in run, no current. I assume testing it is to touch + terminal with one end and grounding the other tip to engine, right?
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Are you saying that when you run a jumper from the top terminal of the solenoid to the small "S" terminal the starter spins the engine over. If yes that's good and tells you the solenoid and starter are good.
Does the starter turn the engine over when you turn the key to start?
Does the starter turn the engine over when you turn the key to start?
Pro
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From: Catoosa Okla
If you follow these instructions and don't find the problem your not following the instructions. If this happens, flip your underwear inside out and re-read this post...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 124
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Are you saying that when you run a jumper from the top terminal of the solenoid to the small "S" terminal the starter spins the engine over. If yes that's good and tells you the solenoid and starter are good.
Does the starter turn the engine over when you turn the key to start?
Does the starter turn the engine over when you turn the key to start?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,417
Likes: 1,554
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
See post 24
OK, you're getting very close to figuring this out.
The ignition switch is a little hard to get to.
See if you have 12 volts "TO" the neutral safety switch (with the key in start).
If not then follow Petro46 advise and see if you have power to and from the ignition switch.
If you have power into the nss push clutch pedal down and see if you have 12 volts on the other terminal of the nss. You can jumper both wires together but put the shifter in neutral first. If the car starts the nss is bad.
Still no start then find the break in the purple wire.
The ignition switch is a little hard to get to.
See if you have 12 volts "TO" the neutral safety switch (with the key in start).
If not then follow Petro46 advise and see if you have power to and from the ignition switch.
If you have power into the nss push clutch pedal down and see if you have 12 volts on the other terminal of the nss. You can jumper both wires together but put the shifter in neutral first. If the car starts the nss is bad.
Still no start then find the break in the purple wire.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 124
Likes: 3
OK, you're getting very close to figuring this out.
The ignition switch is a little hard to get to.
See if you have 12 volts "TO" the neutral safety switch (with the key in start).
If not then follow Petro46 advise and see if you have power to and from the ignition switch.
If you have power into the nss push clutch pedal down and see if you have 12 volts on the other terminal of the nss. You can jumper both wires together but put the shifter in neutral first. If the car starts the nss is bad.
Still no start then find the break in the purple wire.
The ignition switch is a little hard to get to.
See if you have 12 volts "TO" the neutral safety switch (with the key in start).
If not then follow Petro46 advise and see if you have power to and from the ignition switch.
If you have power into the nss push clutch pedal down and see if you have 12 volts on the other terminal of the nss. You can jumper both wires together but put the shifter in neutral first. If the car starts the nss is bad.
Still no start then find the break in the purple wire.
Sorry to sound stupid with all the questions but in my first post I said electrical is not something I understand very well. Thanks
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Thanks for the up date. Electrical problems are difficult to track down but when you find the problem it seems so easy to fix.
Power from the battery goes to the ignition switch then to the NNS (clutch switch in your case) and then to the "S" terminal on the starter. So if you have no power "TO" the nss then the problem can be in the ignition switch since that's the direction the power flows.
No point in checking the purple wire since it's downstream.
At this point you might contact a Corvette club in your area and get help.
Power from the battery goes to the ignition switch then to the NNS (clutch switch in your case) and then to the "S" terminal on the starter. So if you have no power "TO" the nss then the problem can be in the ignition switch since that's the direction the power flows.
No point in checking the purple wire since it's downstream.
At this point you might contact a Corvette club in your area and get help.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 124
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Thanks for the up date. Electrical problems are difficult to track down but when you find the problem it seems so easy to fix.
Power from the battery goes to the ignition switch then to the NNS (clutch switch in your case) and then to the "S" terminal on the starter. So if you have no power "TO" the nss then the problem can be in the ignition switch since that's the direction the power flows.
No point in checking the purple wire since it's downstream.
At this point you might contact a Corvette club in your area and get help.
Power from the battery goes to the ignition switch then to the NNS (clutch switch in your case) and then to the "S" terminal on the starter. So if you have no power "TO" the nss then the problem can be in the ignition switch since that's the direction the power flows.
No point in checking the purple wire since it's downstream.
At this point you might contact a Corvette club in your area and get help.
Sounds like the ign. switch. May have it replaced. If that doesn't solve it will take your advice. Thanks
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Pro
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From: Catoosa Okla
Just food for thought. It's very seldom (though possible) the ignition switch simply goes "out". It's MORE likely the key cylinder isn't pushing the physical ignition switch far enough to make a good contact or another issue altogether. And yes, it's mighty tight under there, like everything else on these pretty little ladies. This said, IF I had ruled out everything else we've all talked about and HADN'T yet got the ignition switch accessible yet, here is what to do. Get a phillips head screwdriver and a 9/16" socket and extension. Remove the cover directly under the steering column. This will expose the two 9/16" nuts holding the column up. Remove these two nuts and you can carefully lower the column enough to expose the two 5/16" headed screws that secure the ignition switch to the column on the LEFT SIDE of the column. If you loosen them them up just a little, you can push the ignition switch toward the firewall a tad, then tighten. (It is designed to slide for proper adjustment). This will rule out the key cylinder rod not pushing the ignition switch far enough to make a good contact. ( This is a LOT easier and a lot less time consuming than you might think) Good luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Hinckley OH
Just food for thought. It's very seldom (though possible) the ignition switch simply goes "out". It's MORE likely the key cylinder isn't pushing the physical ignition switch far enough to make a good contact or another issue altogether. And yes, it's mighty tight under there, like everything else on these pretty little ladies. This said, IF I had ruled out everything else we've all talked about and HADN'T yet got the ignition switch accessible yet, here is what to do. Get a phillips head screwdriver and a 9/16" socket and extension. Remove the cover directly under the steering column. This will expose the two 9/16" nuts holding the column up. Remove these two nuts and you can carefully lower the column enough to expose the two 5/16" headed screws that secure the ignition switch to the column on the LEFT SIDE of the column. If you loosen them them up just a little, you can push the ignition switch toward the firewall a tad, then tighten. (It is designed to slide for proper adjustment). This will rule out the key cylinder rod not pushing the ignition switch far enough to make a good contact. ( This is a LOT easier and a lot less time consuming than you might think) Good luck!
And if that doesn't fix it you have most of the work to replace it done.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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So far it's not. Work has kept me from doing much since last post,but what I have done is, checked clutch nss, it has power in but not at other terminal and motor won't crank when the wires are jumpered in the ignitions start position. I have checked power at the wiper override and have power at both terminals and has power all the time. it has red and red with white wires going to ignition switch. I have also adjusted the switch rod as suggested on left side of column with no results. When I do turn the switch to start the tcs terminal on the fire wall clicks not the starter. Still in a tizzy. But thanks for askin'. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
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From: Hinckley OH
If you have power at one of the two wires at the clutch switch when you turn the key to "start" and connecting the two wires at the clutch switch does not make it start when you turn the key, then it's likely a short in that wire that goes from the clutch switch to the small terminal on the engine side of the solenoid.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2012
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If you have power at one of the two wires at the clutch switch when you turn the key to "start" and connecting the two wires at the clutch switch does not make it start when you turn the key, then it's likely a short in that wire that goes from the clutch switch to the small terminal on the engine side of the solenoid.
Thread Starter
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