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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 12:49 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Camivette
Time to stop and take a deep breath. Understand we'll try and help but you have to be very specific since its over the net. Is there good voltage from the battery to the starter. Check the starter ground Next operate the solenoid Just like the fbi follow the money we need to follow the voltage. I'm still leaning on starter and solenoid
sorry. Some times I get wordy. A point I want to make though is how suddenly it happened if you refer back to my first post if that helps. With that said at this point I have put in a rebuilt starter. Before I replaced it I did try to jump the hot ( big top wire) and the coil purple wire next to engine, nothing , not a sound. I then put a volt meter on the top hot terminal and got a very slight voltage around 3/4 volt, the needle on the meter just barely moved. At this point I put in the rebuilt starter so I have eliminated that being the problem even though I don't think that was. I cleaned the ground wire, both ends so it has good contact. Tried cranking it again and still nothing. Still only a trickle of juice to the starter. The wiring at the starter was all cut and spliced from a previous owner and I didn't find any fuseable links. The battery is charged. What do I try next?
Thanks all you guys for your suggestions and help I really do appreciate it.
Fred

fully charged. It appears no juice
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 01:08 PM
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Somehow, I feel obligated if not committed to see this through. We went from working to not working as fast as clicking a light switch. That tells me it's electrical. What I want to know requires two people. One to spin the starter at the ignition switch and one to hold a 12 volt test light from a good engine ground to the small wire on the solenoid closest to the block ONLY. I want to know if a light bulb lights up when the key is in the START position.

...Yea....that's what I want to know before anything else..

Last edited by Patro46; Mar 1, 2014 at 01:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Patro46
Somehow, I feel obligated if not committed to see this through. We went from working to not working as fast as clicking a light switch. That tells me it's electrical. What I want to know requires two people. One to spin the starter at the ignition switch and one to hold a 12 volt test light from a good engine ground to the small wire on the solenoid closest to the block ONLY. I want to know if a light bulb lights up when the key is in the START position.

...Yea....that's what I want to know before anything else..
I appreciate your commitment to professionalism. Did as you asked. No light.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 06:47 PM
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You in good hands with Patro46 so follow his advice.
If you do not have 12 volts to the end of the purple wire with the key in start then check the clutch switch. With the key in start see if you get 12 volts into and out of the clutch switch.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 07:31 PM
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OK. We've established a starting point. This said, if you jump the 3/8" terminal on the starter solenoid to the small 9/32" terminal the starter CLOSEST to the block SHOULD spin over. (The other small terminal provides a 7 to 8 volt signal to the coil when in cranking mode). It may spark a little making connection and thats OK. It's drawing a LOT of amps. Do this next. It will tell us where to go next

Last edited by Patro46; Mar 1, 2014 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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I may have missed something. You have no voltage at the BATT cable at the starter to ground? If you've got battery voltage there then start following Patro's lead.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #27  
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I say turn on headlights and honk horn. If they work you have good voltage to starter. If they don't work you have any of the following. Bad battery, bad cables or bad connections.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ftf396
I then put a volt meter on the top hot terminal and got a very slight voltage around 3/4 volt, the needle on the meter just barely moved.
Then your battery lead is most likely bad.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 09:05 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Then your battery lead is most likely bad.
No spark jumping those terminals. No voltage with the meter. The horn won't blow and lights don't come on.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 09:15 AM
  #30  
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Its a ground issue , the tell was his click when he first tried to restart .
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 09:22 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ftf396
The horn won't blow and lights don't come on.
Oh, I missed that part. Then it's almost certainly a main ground issue. Trace from the batt.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #32  
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If you question the ground, simply take a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to a known good ground. I'm also in agreement your issue is either a bad ground or a bad positive connection, probably at or near the battery. Also note, the negative cable is rather short and grounds to the frame. If the engine isn't grounded well, it could present a issue. Something REAL SIMPLE is being overlooked. I'd bet lunch.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Patro46
If you question the ground, simply take a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to a known good ground. I'm also in agreement your issue is either a bad ground or a bad positive connection, probably at or near the battery. Also note, the negative cable is rather short and grounds to the frame. If the engine isn't grounded well, it could present a issue. Something REAL SIMPLE is being overlooked. I'd bet lunch.
I think you were right at least partially at this point. I had not checked the ground at the battery. Didn't look bad but I took it loose and cleaned the connections and retightened it. Now the dash lights are back on and voltage at the starter but still will not crank. The clicking is also back. It is coming from a box on the firewall with a wire that goes to the alternator. If you look at the diagram of the 74 with the arrow pointing to the junction box that was assuiejohns problem my clicking is coming from the box above the dizzy.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:26 PM
  #34  
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The first reply you got was me telling you to check the cables neg and positive. Post 33 ya got it clicking again ... Make sure the ground is good at the frame.. If it is and the positive is good at the starter get a jump start
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 04:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by diehrd
The first reply you got was me telling you to check the cables neg and positive. Post 33 ya got it clicking again ... Make sure the ground is good at the frame.. If it is and the positive is good at the starter get a jump start
It wasn't the starter clicking it was some kind of junction box on the firewall.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #36  
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Did you try to jump start it or ya gonna go 33 more posts
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by diehrd
Did you try to jump start it or ya gonna go 33 more posts
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 10:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Patro46
sorry guys. will do that tomorrow. thanks
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 10:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ftf396
sorry guys. will do that tomorrow. thanks
Had to clean every end on the cables and tighten twice before I Finally got fire to the starter and jumped it. But still nothing thru the switch. What's next?
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 09:56 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ftf396
Had to clean every end on the cables and tighten twice before I Finally got fire to the starter and jumped it. But still nothing thru the switch. What's next?
So if I understand you, you now are able to jump the starter. So... with the key in the run position and you jumping the starter, will it run? If not, with the key in the run position, is there 12 volts + at the + side of the coil?
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