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Over heating problem

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:01 PM
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Default Over heating problem

Ok, here's the deal. I have a 79 C3 with a 350 with TPI and a 700R4. A few weeks ago it started overheating on the freeway, as soon as I got onto surface streets it would cool off immediately. Now it has progressed to overheating whenever I am moving no mater what speed I am going. It just starts running hotter and hotter. If I just sit still either in or out of drive it stays cool, I can start the car put my foot on the brake put it in gear and it never overheats. I have replaced the weather stripping around the radiator and between the hood and rad support. I have installed support springs in both radiator hoses, no leaks no air pocket in intake and my cooling fan is working fine! I spent days reading the post on overheating none helped. Any ideas?

Zorro
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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You state the cooling fan is working fine, do you have an electric fan? If you do, when the car is overheating have you pulled over and verified that the fan was running?
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:25 PM
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Tough one. You've put spring inserts in the hoses (but were they still good?) because if they felt like you were squeezing grandma's soft and flabby arm, I'd replace them.

You didn't mention if you looked for obstructions, like plastic bags and whatnot, but I imagine you have. Check the radiator cap too, because that will cause problems and finally, I'd do a pressure test on the radiator. You might have an unknown bigger problem, like cylinder heads, that might just be starting to rear it's ugly head, it just isn't obvious yet.

Another odd one, I found, are clogged exhausts. If the cat has collapsed, it may be hindering the flow of exhaust gases out and this will bump up the exhaust temperature, possibly causing the engine to overheat.

Tell us what you find, so we can add it to the 'tribal knowledge'!

Timing can cause this too! If the timing is too retarded, then the spark happens as the piston is starting to travel down and instead of the explosion happening at the top and the pressure is pushing it down, you have the mix being ignited as it moves down, transferring the excess heat to the cylinder walls and into the cooling system. I've had this happen myself.

Last edited by F22; Mar 6, 2014 at 05:29 PM. Reason: Added timing info
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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You didn't accidently knock the air dam off the front did ya?
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
You state the cooling fan is working fine, do you have an electric fan? If you do, when the car is overheating have you pulled over and verified that the fan was running?
I can hear it run and my amp gauge shows it. Now when I drive the car home and pop the hood it is still running till the car cools down and it goes off. Yes electric fan.

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Zorro
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 76Vett
You didn't accidently knock the air dam off the front did ya?
No, I looked.

thanks
Zorro
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by F22
Tough one. You've put spring inserts in the hoses (but were they still good?) because if they felt like you were squeezing grandma's soft and flabby arm, I'd replace them.

Hoses are new I put the springs in just to be sure that they were not the problem.

You didn't mention if you looked for obstructions, like plastic bags and whatnot, but I imagine you have. Check the radiator cap too, because that will cause problems and finally, I'd do a pressure test on the radiator. You might have an unknown bigger problem, like cylinder heads, that might just be starting to rear it's ugly head, it just isn't obvious yet.

No obstruction, new rad cap with pressure release, it has pressure. I think (hope) a head gasket would cause the motor to overheat at idle.

Another odd one, I found, are clogged exhausts. If the cat has collapsed, it may be hindering the flow of exhaust gases out and this will bump up the exhaust temperature, possibly causing the engine to overheat.

Headers with dual exhaust no cats no obstruction.

Tell us what you find, so we can add it to the 'tribal knowledge'!

Timing can cause this too! If the timing is too retarded, then the spark happens as the piston is starting to travel down and instead of the explosion happening at the top and the pressure is pushing it down, you have the mix being ignited as it moves down, transferring the excess heat to the cylinder walls and into the cooling system. I've had this happen myself.
I have tried both advancing and retarding the timing with no effect on overheating.

Thanks
Zorro
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:45 PM
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How old is the water pump?
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by c69vete
How old is the water pump?
It's about a year old. It was really cheap, but it is not making any of those noises bad pumps make or leaking. It does pump water into the engine when I am refilling the system. One thing that I don't remember seeing before, is the water in the rad moves up and down as I fill things up but it is calm, no current or churning.

Thanks
Zorro
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Zorro O
It's about a year old. It was really cheap, but it is not making any of those noises bad pumps make or leaking. It does pump water into the engine when I am refilling the system. One thing that I don't remember seeing before, is the water in the rad moves up and down as I fill things up but it is calm, no current or churning.

Thanks
Zorro
You may have a head gasket leaking putting exhaust gas into the cooling system. When you rev the engine with the cap off are there a lot of bubbles or does the fluid rise.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Zorro O
It's about a year old. It was really cheap, but it is not making any of those noises bad pumps make or leaking. It does pump water into the engine when I am refilling the system. One thing that I don't remember seeing before, is the water in the rad moves up and down as I fill things up but it is calm, no current or churning.

Thanks
Zorro
I was thinking more along the lines of the internals being OK. It may move enough water at idle but not enough at higher RPMs. Rusted pump vanes could do that. Just something else to look at. Not likely though being only a year old.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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I had a similar problem years ago in my '66. Drove me nuts for a long time. Turned out to be a leaking head gasket.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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Are you sure it's actually overheating and not just a bad sending unit or even a bad gauge? Start diagnosing with easy and basic things and work up from there.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:46 PM
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A faulty thermostat will cause it to overheat in no time. Ask me how I know... Replace, they are cheap and easy.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Rebelrob
A faulty thermostat will cause it to overheat in no time. Ask me how I know... Replace, they are cheap and easy.



Someone said head gasket ,, well holy cow lets at least cover the obvious and simple causes first lmao
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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My guess is your fans are not working properly. Throw a flex fan on and see if this works!
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by widowmaker221
...Throw a flex fan on and see if this works!...
Actually, don't throw on a flex fan. They are not recommended for C3s.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 01:02 PM
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head gasket X3..... or cracked head...

get a gas tester from the radiator. any good radiator shop or pep-boys should have it.

when driving there is a lot more pressure in the cylinder..
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 01:26 PM
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Please check the thermostat and radiator cap before you do anything expensive... You've been given good advice. Check the obvious basic stuff first.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Actually, don't throw on a flex fan. They are not recommended for C3s.
A flex fan will still work better than electric fans that are not working and should maintain better temps than you have now!
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