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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Default Oil pan gasket question

OK, I am replacing the oil pan gasket and rear main seal on my 81 because of oil leak in that area. My problem is that I don't know what gasket to get. The engine is not original, it was replaced by PO and is a GM 350/300 or something like that crate. I went to Auto Zone and got what the guy thought was the right on and it's not. Here are pics of how it fit. As you can see, it doesn't fit on the front end and it doesn't have a bulge for the dipstick on the one side.

What I took off was a cork gasket. I like the one piece blue silicone (or whatever it is), it seems nice but not the right size.

Any help on what I should get? Oh, and it's 4 bolt main, and automatic if that makes any difference.

Thanks,
Jim

Also I need rear main seal! thanks
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:04 PM
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forgot pics...



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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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I have the one piece gasket and it works great.

what is the part number of the one they gave you? The one I used on my stock '81 has the dipstick bump on both sides.

Is your rear main seal correct? it's possible your engine might be a newer 1 piece rear main seal and need a different oil pan gasket.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
I have the one piece gasket and it works great.

what is the part number of the one they gave you? The one I used on my stock '81 has the dipstick bump on both sides.

Is your rear main seal correct? it's possible your engine might be a newer 1 piece rear main seal and need a different oil pan gasket.

They gave me a OS 34500R

The rear main seal is a two piece. I have the bearing cap off.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:18 PM
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ok, maybe I have found it:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...olet/year/1981
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81
They gave me a OS 34500R

The rear main seal is a two piece. I have the bearing cap off.
he gave you a gasket for a 1 piece rear main seal engine
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81
that one looks better. autozone should have it
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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awesome. thanks... I don't know why he couldn't find it. I said 81 Corvette but it was newer engine. He went with 86 Chevy K10 truck... oh well.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81
awesome. thanks... I don't know why he couldn't find it. I said 81 Corvette but it was newer engine. He went with 86 Chevy K10 truck... oh well.
oh that's why. looks like the '81 gasket should work for you
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 01:05 PM
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Default all done.

Just as a folow up -

I got it all back together last night. Man, that was scary setting that bearing cap back up in there. Never done that before. It doesn't get much more serious than that! But with all the stuff I've read here and other places, I think I got it on correctly. Put some oil on the bearing surface and some grease and oil on the sealing surface of the main seal. I did the 3/8" offset of the main seal like the (FelPro) installation instructions said. And I put the RTV black on the two mating lands on the cap and block. Torqued her all down. HOPE IT DOESN'T LEAK!

The oil pan went on too. Those little 'snap ups' are awesome. It would be VERY HARD without those. It was just a pain working upside down for that long putting all those bolts in. It was nice that the bolts were all included. I did put a dab of RTV at the corners like it said. The only thing I winged it on was the torque of the oil pan bolts. I don't have a torque wrench for 80 in-lb, so I just did em hand tight with the ratchet. 'sort of' , not really tight...

Now I get to wait till whenever it's nice again to drive it and test it.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81
Just as a folow up -

The oil pan went on too. Those little 'snap ups' are awesome. It would be VERY HARD without those. It was just a pain working upside down for that long putting all those bolts in. It was nice that the bolts were all included. I did put a dab of RTV at the corners like it said. The only thing I winged it on was the torque of the oil pan bolts. I don't have a torque wrench for 80 in-lb, so I just did em hand tight with the ratchet. 'sort of' , not really tight...

Now I get to wait till whenever it's nice again to drive it and test it.

You should be OK....the torque wrench in a good tool to use, but the gasket has the steel inserts in the bolt holes, which keep the gasket set at a constant "crush", so you'd have to really work pretty hard, to over tighten the bolts.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:03 PM
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good job. the snap ups are a great invention, I couldn't imagine putting a cork 4 piece gasket back in upside down.

you're braver than me. My rear main is slightly leaking, just barely, but I was too scared it would be worse if I changed it so I left the old one in there and just did the pan.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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Quick question for you. Did you drop the steering by unbolting the idler from the frame? Do you have to unload the suspension to drop the steering?
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil B
Quick question for you. Did you drop the steering by unbolting the idler from the frame? Do you have to unload the suspension to drop the steering?
Yes, and no. Just unbolted the idler arm (I think) from the frame. That was enough room.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
good job. the snap ups are a great invention, I couldn't imagine putting a cork 4 piece gasket back in upside down.

you're braver than me. My rear main is slightly leaking, just barely, but I was too scared it would be worse if I changed it so I left the old one in there and just did the pan.
Well mine was leaking pretty bad. Whole under side of car is coated in oil! So this was a MUST DO. Really it wasn't a big job. There is a lot of info on doing this on the web. And the FelPro stuff came with good instructions too.

Hopefully it will work!!
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81
Yes, and no. Just unbolted the idler arm (I think) from the frame. That was enough room.
When you unbolted the idler arm, the front wheels were in the air or had the car's weight on them?

Thanks.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:45 PM
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I did mine in the air, unbolted the idler arm and just let the steering linkage hang. the pan literally fell right out
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil B
When you unbolted the idler arm, the front wheels were in the air or had the car's weight on them?

Thanks.
ah, yes, wheels were off the ground.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jim-81
ah, yes, wheels were off the ground.
Thanks I'm trying to determine if I should do this on a 4-post lift or jackstands.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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A couple more questions... Was the block side part of the seal difficult to get out? Did you do anything special to re-align the cap/thrust bearing?

Thanks!
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