You sure. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Just don't hog out a bunch of metal. Skinny up the bosses a bit, round out the bowls where the valve guide boss is, blend in the seats, take off sharp edges and casting flaws.
None of that is risky and it may net you a little gain.

 

I for sure was going to come up with something that took off little metal something not to course. like I said have not done it before just read a lot about what to do and not over the yrs. messing with the short side floor as I said earlier a no, no far as I know.

I guess I have not gave up on the idea. I have three blocks have to get them looked at see where I stand on a block.

Meanwhile the guy I sold my 454, 4 block, 2 steel 427 cranks to. wasted my block putting it in a 4 wheel drive show truck. with lunati voodoo hydraulic cam I suggested, uses hyper pistons. Then he says nothing to me lived next door. Buys a set of pro comp heads puts on it. Now I'm wanting to strangle him lol. He now buys a brand new zz/4 to put in the 4 wheel drive, never used the BBC. What a waste of a BBC. I can't buy the block back and cranks with this total junk in the picture.

I had that block on an engine stand he's over here drooling on my block. The two new steel cranks were blems I got from competition products $200.00 shipped to my door, nobody wants a 3.76 crank anymore. Anyway I say $1100.00 for all of its your. Now at this time I was finances worlds better. Im drooling over my own aftermarket block with at least the 4.50 bore but never bought one. Wasted a 4 bolt block with a hydraulic flat tappit and pro comp oval heads the valve covers won't fit right on. If I strangle him they will put me down in Huntsville with the wrong kind of juice and I don't even like juice in lifters, he can't really be worth it. All kidding aside we are good friends but when he told me he bought pro comp heads put on it my eyes had to go fuzzy.. I bought that block in 1975 kept it around never did use it. I could buy it back, anybody want some brand new pro comp heads. They say anything will sell on craigs list.

 

LM, I wasn't trying to detour your plans to clean the ports up, just trying to prevent you from making a big mistake.

If you stick to taking out casting ridges and such, you will be fine. You don't want to grind down the short side radius, but taking casting flaws off and smoothing any sharp edge where the short side radius meets the seat will net you gains. The short side likes to be very smooth and doesn't like any sudden sharp transitions at the seat. You also want to avoid making the seat throat larger. This will kill low and mid lift flows. Use the recommended intake gasket and match all the ports inlet to it. Then do the same on the intake manifold, only leave the intake just a tiny bit smaller to allow for any misalignment during installation. A bore camera to look down the intake ports while installing will help alignment.

Good luck!

 

not sure what the cost is for electric stuff to run it. I have a big industrial grade compressor in the garage but I don't think porters use air.

Ill dig up an pld head somewhere practice on it.

Ran into Richard Rawlings ( Fast n Loud ) son working the cash register at Kroger a few minutes ago.

 

I used air and this die grinder.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_82215-47120-...ductId=3309246

Just make sure it stays lubed with air tool oil and it will work fine.

 

you can use air if you have th ecompressor its cheaper. Electric grinders are kinda pricy

Just use a regulator to turn the speed way down
Some 60 grit cartridge rolls may be a little friendlier than the bits if youre hesitant about the carbides. Without looking a 1.5"x3/8 dia should work

3 in carbide/arbor for rolls oughta be enough if you want to play with the exhaust and detail the chambers
Getting used to the air grinder speed can takea minute

If you use your roll (a new one, the "straight" type not tapered) at a slight angle for a bit the end will be slightly rounded or broken in, those are great for chambers at that point.

 

I noticed when I pmed you back on the cost of the electric to do this my computer must have lost your reply lol, If I can do this with air great. I have a nice regulator mounted on the compressor. When I was checking into compressor's 80 gallon at home depot 10 yrs ago. I then found industrial air in Arlington tx. There compressor turned at one third the speed of what the home depot stuff was selling. It cost me another $400.00. never been sorry I bought it. I have one outlet unregulated the other regulated.