When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So the video is correct and just tighten the castle nut finger tight till the cotter pin lines up?
No. That's one point they got wrong. The castle nut needs to torqued to X ft/lbs as per your GM shop manual while spinning the wheel to fully seat the bearing races. It is then backed off until the first cotter pin hole (either vertical or horizontal) becomes visible.
While rotating wheel, tighten spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. Torque. Back off adjusting nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the adjusting nut an additional ½ flat or less, as required to insert the cotter pin. Spin the wheel to see that it rolls freely and then lock cotter pin in place (correct procedure can only be accomplished when friction pads are not in contact with rotor).
While rotating wheel, tighten spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. Torque. Back off adjusting nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the adjusting nut an additional ½ flat or less, as required to insert the cotter pin. Spin the wheel to see that it rolls freely and then lock cotter pin in place (correct procedure can only be accomplished when friction pads are not in contact with rotor).
Found one of my bearings damaged. The part number on the bearing looked familiar. Went to my John Deere cross reference sure enough had one in stock half the price of the auto parts store. Now it will run like a Deere
Last edited by hotrodnick; Mar 22, 2014 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: slelling