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Front wheel bearing replacement.

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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Default Front wheel bearing replacement.

Is this video about how you would do it on your c3? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVtU6Q2-Z4g&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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Yes that is the correct procedure.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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I didn't watch the video but always go back and re tighten the hub bearings after 50 miles....
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hugie82
I didn't watch the video but always go back and re tighten the hub bearings after 50 miles....
Tapered rollers bearings should never be tightened in the first place. There's a specific procedure in the shop manual. Follow that.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Tapered rollers bearings should never be tightened in the first place. There's a specific procedure in the shop manual. Follow that.
So the video is correct and just tighten the castle nut finger tight till the cotter pin lines up?
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by whoodiestyle
So the video is correct and just tighten the castle nut finger tight till the cotter pin lines up?
No. That's one point they got wrong. The castle nut needs to torqued to X ft/lbs as per your GM shop manual while spinning the wheel to fully seat the bearing races. It is then backed off until the first cotter pin hole (either vertical or horizontal) becomes visible.

No need to come back 50 miles later.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 04:05 PM
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While rotating wheel, tighten spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. Torque. Back off adjusting nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the adjusting nut an additional ½ flat or less, as required to insert the cotter pin. Spin the wheel to see that it rolls freely and then lock cotter pin in place (correct procedure can only be accomplished when friction pads are not in contact with rotor).
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAl5611
While rotating wheel, tighten spindle nut to 12 ft. lbs. Torque. Back off adjusting nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the adjusting nut an additional ½ flat or less, as required to insert the cotter pin. Spin the wheel to see that it rolls freely and then lock cotter pin in place (correct procedure can only be accomplished when friction pads are not in contact with rotor).

Found one of my bearings damaged. The part number on the bearing looked familiar. Went to my John Deere cross reference sure enough had one in stock half the price of the auto parts store. Now it will run like a Deere

Last edited by hotrodnick; Mar 22, 2014 at 06:49 PM. Reason: slelling
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