have not made up my mind. looking into machine shops in my area find out where I'm at with the blocks I have.

 

What rpm do you want to make peak hp at?

 

You can have any cam ground on a pro55 core. If you want to pull to 7500+ and have a cam to do that you need at least high 11 or 12 to 1. You better be figuring your DCR. If you want to cam it to run 8000 rpm shift points to small of DCR will kill power big time across the board. To much DCR will detonate. There is science involved in building what you are talking about. Your building an old school sprint car motor. Use the tools available today. I am 56 years old. I'm old school. We used to have to guess at cam selection. Remember 3/4 race cams? I remember swapping cams during the week and hitting the strip on the weekend then doing it again the next week until it ET'd the best. The science has refined what we can do now, especially with crap fuel today. You can run 13 to 1 on pump gas but the powerband will be too high to drive. If the 12.6 to 1 is too high go with the 75 cc heads and drop it down to the low 11 to 1's but the shift point will drop down if you cam it for optimum performance. If I was building it I would go solid roller and shaft rockers.

 

already figured in the fact with an iron heads use would be lower on compression then ideal. did not say dcr was a useless tool to pay zero attention To, but it won't tell a complete story at all. one head can be better then another pack the cylinder with more air then another now your compressing more air, DCR it can't tell you that, just like static compression can't always tell you what to do either. An old head chamber compared to a new style same cam and compression used on both the new chamber less timing needed. Head flow numbers on heads don't tell it all either. The shallower the chamber the better off you are big chambers are out to lunch old time stuff along with domes. Not about to do 12.6 compression on pump gas depend DCR to save the day. 13 to one compression almost every one racing would be using pump gas not spending money on 100 oct. or more for race gas. I can't get E-85 to use.


Build yourself a 13.01 engine go to the bottom of the page pick out one of those 280 .050 cams put good heads on it do the 93 octain thing. with the good cylinder filling I know you will have between that and the cam duration and lift really packing the air in that sucker gets on the cam 6500 hard, engine blown to smithereens.

 

My intent was to point you toward a fairly economical, super lightweight, short stroke, forged bottom end not using an eagle crank that meet your build parameters. 340 CI. 3.335 stroke. You could change pistons or go bigger on head chamber to drop compression. Didn't mean to offend, just trying to help. You know an L88 was 12.5 to 1 with iron heads and would pull 7500+. I thought your goal was something with similar manners in a small block. Did not mean to offend, just trying to help.

 

No you are not offending me at all I always appreciate your help and knowledge like to learn something from you and many others. Reason im over at speed talk last couple yr's even though I may have around 60 posts there, is to learn off of all the machine shops and racers there. I have three old Honda's so im on cafe racer forum where there's racers doing old motorcycles. I was just pulling on your leg because I know how much you like afr heads. Who knows really how well profiler or afr stack up. Like. I joke every once in awhile ill check my dyno in the backyard. Gkull knows how to operate a dyno I don't, if I had one would not know how to use it. I know it would be better in overall cost to come up with a rotating kit. But im going to do it a few pieces at a time going light on the rods and pistons to start out with. Never held a lightweight rod in my hand. I got them out compared them to what I like to call them battleship rods. I started to panick a bit almost called flatlander racing to ship them back. Had to go back over to speed talk where several machine shops and different racers use them all the time to sort of calm me down lol. So looking at them again width wise there like an I beam rod where the regular standard weight is wider in beam. The shorter the stroke, the lighter the rotating mass both are easier on the main webbing of a block regardless of what rpm you want to do. if I were going to do a bigger build better block go for a lot more power or nos would use a standard weight rod.

Im going to do the cross ram have someone in the end tune it on a dyno. if it never really works use the two carbs on a edelbrock street ram with the longer and less cross section runner then a real race tunnel ram. With the carbs right over the runners and the runners strait i have no doubts its better then the cross ram would be.

But I'm going to let you try this 13.1 engine on 93 pump gas big cam thing if it works let me know. Have a feeling DCR going to let you down on this one lol, but I have been wrong before many times over.

 

Here you go.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/crank...rankshaft.html

Or if you want lightweight, forged, a little more stroke.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/crank...rankshaft.html

 

good find on the top one thanks price I can live with. with the light rods pistons should just be a matter of removing some metal on it to balance. Will call scat check into it.