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do i have a 4 bolt main

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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 10:46 PM
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Default do i have a 4 bolt main

Can anyone tell me, with out droping the pan on my 1982 if I have a 2 bolt or a four bolt main.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 11:00 PM
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if it's the stock engine it's 2 bolt
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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There are many clues to say it is or isn't but the only way to know for sure is to see the main caps. You can buy a Camera that would go threw the Oil pan Drain pretty darn cheap now that plugs into Your PC. Or You might be able to rent one.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:46 AM
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Do I win something if I guess right?

As far as I know, there is no sure way to tell without looking. As my Granpappy in Maine used to say, "Hard tellin', not knowin'." Sorry, Charlie, only the best tuna get to be Starkist.

Scott
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 06:57 AM
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If the engine is original - check for the last 6 digits of the VIN on the deck stamping just in front of the passenger side head - it's a 2-bolt, like qwank stated.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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Sorry...
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by terry82
Can anyone tell me, with out droping the pan on my 1982 if I have a 2 bolt or a four bolt main.
if it happens to be a 4 barrel carb truck block it will be a 4 bolt block. check the stamp pad to see what you have.

Last edited by PAmotorman; Mar 24, 2014 at 02:55 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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I believe the last 4 bolt mains as advertised were the 1980 L-82. The L-48, L-81 and 82 crossfire were all 2 bolt mains. Checking the stamp code is not a sure fire way to know since GM was known to substitute blocks if they ran short of a particular engine block., Would they substitute a truck block for an 82 one, not sure, but there are L-48's with 4 bolt mains and some L-82's with 2 bolt mains. I just checked mine today after pulling the motor and yes my L-82 is a 4 bolt main-excellent.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 06:51 PM
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There is no way to be positive without looking at the caps, period.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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Don't worry too much about it. Years ago, I think it was David Vizard who said that, a CORRECTLY SET UP bottom end on a Chevy smallblock with a two bolt main could be reliable to 500 HP. I'd guess if you are looking to build more than 400 HP, use ARP main bolts, just to be safe.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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You can always splay the mains and block. Creating a stronger than 4 bolt. You might as well if you are rebuilding anyway.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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i may have a chance to buy a very cheap priced four bolt main block that i could build then put in my car .if i already have a 4 bolt ,i will just build the block i have .but it sounds like i should buy this new block [$75.00]Thanks for all replys.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
There is no way to be positive without looking at the caps, period.


100%
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 11:01 PM
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I would buy a splay kit and splay the block you have. Stronger than the four bolt.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by terry82
i may have a chance to buy a very cheap priced four bolt main block that i could build then put in my car .if i already have a 4 bolt ,i will just build the block i have .but it sounds like i should buy this new block [$75.00]Thanks for all replys.
If it passes magnaflux and still has some meat in the bores, that sounds like a pretty good deal.

Scott
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 06:40 AM
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I'd have that $75 block checked and if it's good, build it. That would let you leave the original alone until time to swap out.
Having a car on the sideline because it's waiting on its original engine to be rebuilt is wasted seat time.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
If it passes magnaflux and still has some meat in the bores, that sounds like a pretty good deal.

Scott
Hey Terry,

If you don't buy it, I will! 75 bucks!

And yeah, my 383 build started out as a '76 C10 4-barrel mill.
Also, it's valve cover hold down tabs are of the long type. If these long types are only factory associated to 4-bolt main engines, I don't know. But would be interested to see if this is common with other 4-bolt owners here.

Steve
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To do i have a 4 bolt main

Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:12 AM
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i have used the splayed caps and they work very well and are very stable.
there is a school of thought that may have merit and that is you weaken the " stronger " part of the block when you drill and tap into it. personally i don't think it would make that much difference. but i do like 4 studs as opposed to 2 bolts and 2 studs.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
there is a school of thought that may have merit and that is you weaken the " stronger " part of the block when you drill and tap into it. personally i don't think it would make that much difference.
I don't either.

I mean, didn't the foundry do that to the 4-bolt main blocks?

Steve
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 02:19 PM
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back in the day of using 327 blocks for racing we machined the bottom of the 3 center main caps flat and then using longer allen cap screws installed 7/8" X 7/8" cold rolled steel straps across the main caps. the weakest part is the caps themselves because without the straps the caps would crack as the force on the caps is downward.
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