'76 suddenly won't start. Won't turn over
#21
Burning Brakes
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It should be up above the brake pedal arm. You can test for a bad switch by just taking the two wires off and jumpering them together. Just make sure it's in neutral, brake on and clutch in when you turn the key to start. If it starts you know it's the switch. It could just need adjusted or it could be defective.
Last edited by Jerry Curl; 03-25-2014 at 08:00 PM.
#22
Melting Slicks
That's for the automatic transmission. I just realized that in my other post I said it is on the brake pedal. I meant clutch.
#23
Burning Brakes
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What's interesting is this part isn't even covered under the manual transmission section. This is a Haynes manual. I just looked it up in a Chilton manual and I can't find anything on it there either. Except for automatic.
Can anyone show some pictures of what I should be looking for?
Last edited by Jerry Curl; 03-26-2014 at 08:33 AM.
#24
Drifting
Hmmmm... You're right. I notice now the chapter I see this in is for automatics. I just looked it up in the index and didn't think to see what chapter it was actually covering.
What's interesting is this part isn't even covered under the manual transmission section. This is a Haynes manual. I just looked it up in a Chilton manual and I can't find anything on it there either. Except for automatic.
What's interesting is this part isn't even covered under the manual transmission section. This is a Haynes manual. I just looked it up in a Chilton manual and I can't find anything on it there either. Except for automatic.
#25
Burning Brakes
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Do any of the light dim or go out when you try to crank it? It sounds like it does when you said the radio has reset. This is typically a poor connection. Simply stick a meter on the battery post, NOT THE CLAMPS, the post while someone tries to crank it. If it falls to around 10 volts or less, the battery is low. If it stays around 12 volts, it's a poor connection.
There are many checks you can do before you start throwing parts at it. Keep us posted and we'll keep helping.
There are many checks you can do before you start throwing parts at it. Keep us posted and we'll keep helping.
#27
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St. Jude Donor '14
#28
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The cables should be connected to the battery during the test. The reason I wanted you to touch the meter leads to the posts and not the battery cable clamps is that if there is a bad connection between the two, you don't want to pick this up on the meter. I want to make sure you are measuring only the battery and nothing else. I assume we are looking at a top post battery and not a side post. With a side post, you have no other choice.
#29
Burning Brakes
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#30
Burning Brakes
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The cables should be connected to the battery during the test. The reason I wanted you to touch the meter leads to the posts and not the battery cable clamps is that if there is a bad connection between the two, you don't want to pick this up on the meter. I want to make sure you are measuring only the battery and nothing else. I assume we are looking at a top post battery and not a side post. With a side post, you have no other choice.
#32
Burning Brakes
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This is really starting to **** me off.
#34
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What is the make and model of your meter so I can look it up and tell you the exact setting you should be on? It should be set to the volts-DC. It might be on the AC setting, that will give you zero.
Once you get comfortable with a meter, you'll find yourself using it often.
#35
Burning Brakes
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I can understand your frustration. We'll get you through this though and you will have gained some very useful knowledge.
What is the make and model of your meter so I can look it up and tell you the exact setting you should be on? It should be set to the volts-DC. It might be on the AC setting, that will give you zero.
Once you get comfortable with a meter, you'll find yourself using it often.
What is the make and model of your meter so I can look it up and tell you the exact setting you should be on? It should be set to the volts-DC. It might be on the AC setting, that will give you zero.
Once you get comfortable with a meter, you'll find yourself using it often.
#36
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Yeah, I went by what the manual said, but I'm guessing that's not the same for a car battery. This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#37
Burning Brakes
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You should have your meter set the same as the picture is right now. Make sure red lead is in the right-most connection and the black lead is in the center. You should be able to measure the battery that way. Make sure you have a good contact with the leads and the battery post. Sometimes you have to poke and scratch around to get a good connection and accurate measurement.
And to verify, I need to disconnect the cables, right? Because I have no way to directly contact the posts otherwise.
Last edited by Jerry Curl; 03-27-2014 at 01:16 PM.
#38
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I can't see you getting it wrong, maybe the meter is defective. Black lead in the middle jack and red lead in the right jack. Meter set to DCV. Touch the red and black leads on the battery positive and negative terminals and it should read the battery voltage.
#39
Burning Brakes
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Edit:
I popped the batteries out and put them back in. Seems OK now. I get a constant reading of 12.38 on the battery.
Last edited by Jerry Curl; 03-27-2014 at 01:25 PM.
#40
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I guess it's defective. Here is my meter with the settings I'm supposed to use. whenever I set it to that, the display just starts showing random numbers. Note that leads aren't touching anything:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/twm8jf67b8o325u/meter.png
https://www.dropbox.com/s/twm8jf67b8o325u/meter.png
Try removing the covers on the tips of the leads. You will need to make sure the metal leads are making good contact with the battery. Try it on a 9v battery or even a flashlight battery to test it.