Changing Small Block Heads & Cam Install, is it better to pull engine?
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Freedom Pa
Changing Small Block Heads & Cam Install, is it better to pull engine?
I am almost done gathering up parts & want to do a good job. I am also going to install a 3 piece timing cover. Is it easier to just pull the engine so I can do this on a stand & check the clutch, etc? Thanks, Tim
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From: anchorage ak
It would depend on if you wanted to change the pan, pan seal, oil pump, rear main seal or paint the engine. If not it's less work to do it with the engine in, but not a whole lot less. When I did the l48 I left it in the vette, not difficult but a whole lot of leaning over the fender. Since you want to check the clutch it might be best to pull it. If I were going to pull an engine I'd probably at least do bearing. Pulling the engine can give you a case of while I'm at its.
Last edited by bluedawg; Mar 25, 2014 at 03:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Freedom Pa
I think I'll find most things in order. The Previous owner had a restoration shop do a lot of work. They did however miss the mark on the performance end, I found the distributor was a tooth off. I believe now I am fighting a issue of too big of cam for too small of heads (305).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
It is not convenient or easy either way. Choose your poison. If you do it in the car, the radiator may have to come out. That is painful. I think that if I was doing a cam change I'd pull the engine. Getting the front cover to seal properly would be easier at eye level. ANd the radiator can stay in.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 945
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From: Winston Salem NC
I agree with Casey. The radiator will have to come out since the cam will hit it. Pulling the rad is a headache all its own.
I once got the dizzy off by a tooth. It took me 11 tries to get it back to where it needed to be. There are 13 teeth on that gear by the way. I would be surprised if it ran while off by one tooth.
I once got the dizzy off by a tooth. It took me 11 tries to get it back to where it needed to be. There are 13 teeth on that gear by the way. I would be surprised if it ran while off by one tooth.
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From: anchorage ak
I think I'll find most things in order. The Previous owner had a restoration shop do a lot of work. They did however miss the mark on the performance end, I found the distributor was a tooth off. I believe now I am fighting a issue of too big of cam for too small of heads (305).
Last edited by bluedawg; Mar 25, 2014 at 12:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 407
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From: Freedom Pa
It is not convenient or easy either way. Choose your poison. If you do it in the car, the radiator may have to come out. That is painful. I think that if I was doing a cam change I'd pull the engine. Getting the front cover to seal properly would be easier at eye level. ANd the radiator can stay in.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Freedom Pa
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Loveland, CO
Since you are changing cam, it is a lot easier to adjust valves on an engine stand than over the fender (unless you plan to use the messy engine running technique). Although, I have been accused of pulling the engine just to change the oil.
Ralph
Ralph
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From: anchorage ak
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From: anchorage ak
He's running a solid roller, having not ever ran a solid roller, I thought that you had to set the lash with feeler gauges and didn't think that you could do it with the engine running.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
Let me see if I can add some color here:
I changed my timing chain and gears 2 years ago in the car and it really was not that hard in the car.
If you have a clutch problem, then checking the clutch is easier with the engine out.
The radiator removal is not that hard-not sure where that comes from-easier with 2 people. Ditto removing the hood which is NOT required to remove the radiator but is a 2 man job.
Do a recent search and check out my thread on L-82 disaster removing the heads and changing the cam. I started and removed the heads in the car on my L-82 and found a chipped piston. Just removed the short block this past Sunday. Maybe its me but removing the engine is a ton of work after the heads are off. I would still have done the heads and cam change in the car, rather than remove the engine unless like me, I am now rebuilding everything-rebuilt short block, new clutch, new motor mounts, reassembling the top end with AFR heads, roller cam,etc.
If you can make the changes in the car, I would. If you plan to tackle multiple issues, I would pull the motor.
Just my perspective from doing all of this right now as we speak.
I changed my timing chain and gears 2 years ago in the car and it really was not that hard in the car.
If you have a clutch problem, then checking the clutch is easier with the engine out.
The radiator removal is not that hard-not sure where that comes from-easier with 2 people. Ditto removing the hood which is NOT required to remove the radiator but is a 2 man job.
Do a recent search and check out my thread on L-82 disaster removing the heads and changing the cam. I started and removed the heads in the car on my L-82 and found a chipped piston. Just removed the short block this past Sunday. Maybe its me but removing the engine is a ton of work after the heads are off. I would still have done the heads and cam change in the car, rather than remove the engine unless like me, I am now rebuilding everything-rebuilt short block, new clutch, new motor mounts, reassembling the top end with AFR heads, roller cam,etc.
If you can make the changes in the car, I would. If you plan to tackle multiple issues, I would pull the motor.
Just my perspective from doing all of this right now as we speak.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Mar 26, 2014 at 02:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Freedom Pa
Thanks for the input. I guess I might delve to 6500, I have 3.70 gears. I know a lot of people will say this is a place for a Hydraulic Roller & probably are right. I just wanted to try a SR. I wanted a good running mild street engine & played with Comp Cams Camquest software & this cam came out the winner of average hp & average Tq in my RPM range. I also called a Cam Guru & his suggestion was so close I just bought this kit. Another thing that sold me was the Comp Catalog Description "Mechanical Roller-Most versatile, good vacuum, excellent throttle response, noticeable idle, works well with stock manifolds and converter". The complete cam kit was $850 & the heads with valves were $950. I am contemplating running a Weiand Stealth intake in place of the original 79 L-82. any thoughts?
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Thanks for the input. I guess I might delve to 6500, I have 3.70 gears. I know a lot of people will say this is a place for a Hydraulic Roller & probably are right. I just wanted to try a SR. I wanted a good running mild street engine & played with Comp Cams Camquest software & this cam came out the winner of average hp & average Tq in my RPM range. I also called a Cam Guru & his suggestion was so close I just bought this kit. Another thing that sold me was the Comp Catalog Description "Mechanical Roller-Most versatile, good vacuum, excellent throttle response, noticeable idle, works well with stock manifolds and converter". The complete cam kit was $850 & the heads with valves were $950. I am contemplating running a Weiand Stealth intake in place of the original 79 L-82. any thoughts?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: anchorage ak
Thanks for the input. I guess I might delve to 6500, I have 3.70 gears. I know a lot of people will say this is a place for a Hydraulic Roller & probably are right. I just wanted to try a SR. I wanted a good running mild street engine & played with Comp Cams Camquest software & this cam came out the winner of average hp & average Tq in my RPM range. I also called a Cam Guru & his suggestion was so close I just bought this kit. Another thing that sold me was the Comp Catalog Description "Mechanical Roller-Most versatile, good vacuum, excellent throttle response, noticeable idle, works well with stock manifolds and converter". The complete cam kit was $850 & the heads with valves were $950. I am contemplating running a Weiand Stealth intake in place of the original 79 L-82. any thoughts?
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From: anchorage ak