72 blower just stopped
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,276
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
72 blower just stopped
new harnesses, ign, a/c, foward lamp installed
blower fan was working on sat morn when we went to tune car.
was making a racket whilst we had the ign on checking dist etc,
so since the side grate was off, i just reached up and unplugged the wire on the motor spade terminal.
tonight i went to reinstall the grate, so i plugged the wire back on,
but nothing, no fan with ign on or any lo/hi switch setting....
checked the motor with a 12v direct connection to the horn relay, motor works.
checked the purple wire, nothing, no voltage reading, either before the suppressor or after.
also checked the 30amp fuse on the a/c harness by the horn relay, fuse ok.
only thing i done extra was to reinstall the wiper switch plate in the top of the gauge cluster.
plugged the connector on the switch, and screwed the plate in position.
all the fuses in the fuse block check out ok.
so, he asks stupidly, what else could be wrong/have i done??
blower fan was working on sat morn when we went to tune car.
was making a racket whilst we had the ign on checking dist etc,
so since the side grate was off, i just reached up and unplugged the wire on the motor spade terminal.
tonight i went to reinstall the grate, so i plugged the wire back on,
but nothing, no fan with ign on or any lo/hi switch setting....
checked the motor with a 12v direct connection to the horn relay, motor works.
checked the purple wire, nothing, no voltage reading, either before the suppressor or after.
also checked the 30amp fuse on the a/c harness by the horn relay, fuse ok.
only thing i done extra was to reinstall the wiper switch plate in the top of the gauge cluster.
plugged the connector on the switch, and screwed the plate in position.
all the fuses in the fuse block check out ok.
so, he asks stupidly, what else could be wrong/have i done??
Last edited by riverracer au; Mar 31, 2014 at 07:53 AM. Reason: wiper switch / fuse info
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
There is a ~10 ga black wire coming down from the harness, it has a 3/8" loop on it, and is supposed to go to ground/engine and so if anyone played with starter, it maybe have gone to the battery cable on the solenoid......that ground is for the wiper, and HVAC motor.....
check to see that the both are in fact grounded....
check to see that the both are in fact grounded....
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The wire on that spade terminal IS the ground wire. The power wire is the larger one with the black rubber [round] boot on it. With power going to the motor and ground removed, the motor would still be operational and would be 'searching' for another ground to use. Check the 'hi speed' fuse for the motor. With a "hit & miss" intermittant ground condition, I'm not sure what damage might have been done to the motor. I would suggest that you disconnect both the power wire and ground wire from the blower motor and patch direct power to it so you can determine if it still functions [or not].
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,276
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
the only wire removed was the spade terminal towards the bottom.
the purple harness wire connects to the suppressor then to this terminal.
if i direct jump to this terminal from the horn relay then the fan works.
there is no power on the purple wire...
where is the hi speed fuse or any fuse for that matter for the fan?
where is the blower relay mounted?
the purple harness wire connects to the suppressor then to this terminal.
if i direct jump to this terminal from the horn relay then the fan works.
there is no power on the purple wire...
where is the hi speed fuse or any fuse for that matter for the fan?
where is the blower relay mounted?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The Hi-speed fuse is an in-line 30 amp buss fuse located inside the left-front fender, near the brake master cylinder. It is mated to an orange power line.
Did you not find another wire running to the front of the blower with a round rubber boot on it?
Did you not find another wire running to the front of the blower with a round rubber boot on it?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,276
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
found this image on here, may help me to follow, this is what i know so far....
un-pluged the connector at the ac relay on the side on the ac box.
multimeter to a good ground.
i have power at the orange wire, means 30amp fuse ok at horn relay on fender.
if i jump a wire across to the purple wire on the connector, the blower works.
then with ign ON, i dont have power at the drk blue wire which i think trips the relay when ign is turned on.
plugged back on to relay, ign on,
if heater control is in the OFF position, the there is no blower in operation in any lo/m/hi switch positions.
if i move the thumb wheel to any other position, then i have variable speeds with the lo/m/hi switch.
the fuses in the fuse panel all check ok, multimeter on good ground, and have 12v on both sides of the fuses.
so does this narrow it down to the problem??
remembering that they are all new lectric limited harnesses, no bubba wiring here.
haven't pulled console apart, yet!
funny how it was working fine before i just removed the one wire temporally
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 425
Likes: 3
From: Jefferson City Missouri
There is a ~10 ga black wire coming down from the harness, it has a 3/8" loop on it, and is supposed to go to ground/engine and so if anyone played with starter, it maybe have gone to the battery cable on the solenoid......that ground is for the wiper, and HVAC motor.....
check to see that the both are in fact grounded....
check to see that the both are in fact grounded....
The fan now at least spins some. It only had about 2.8 volts going to it and it barely turned. I took out the fan speed switch and opened it up and cleaned it up with some Scotch-Brite, greased with dielectric grease and now it work great!!
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