Hopefully the Flo-Teks work out for the OP...keep us posted, madam.
How Much HP Will it make??
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
I have a car (Not Vette) with a SBC 383 with the AFR210's with the full cnc treatment. "Powertour" cam approx .600 lift with the 1.7's from Comp . 10.8CR. Motor made 500hp on the dyno with a 750cfm BG Demon carb. It has a RPM Airgap intake on it.
Get the RPM Airgap intake it makes good power.
Said Car below
Get the RPM Airgap intake it makes good power.
Said Car below
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Racer
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 421
Likes: 6
From: Chicago IL
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Well I pulled the trigger and started a rebuild of my tired L48. Pulled the engine a couple of weeks ago (pics to come), and got started.
I've done alot of reading here on the subject and choose a direction.
My goal is not a race engine/car but a reliable fun street motor/driver. I definitly wanted to build more horsepower than the wimpy L48. Here's where I'm going parts just arrived:
Scat 4340 stroker crank
5.7 rods (stock style w/press fit wrist pins)
Bore .030 over
Speed Pro Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite main rod & cam bearings
Double roller timing set
#12-210-2 Comp cam:
1500 - 5500 RPM range
Lobe Sep -110
Duration - 268 / 268
Dur @ .050 - 218 / 218
Lobe lift - .302 / .302
Net Valve lift - .454 / .454
Comp Roller Rockers w/lock nuts 1.5:1 Ratio (same as stock)
Copm Hardened push rods
Elgin valve springs - good to .490 lift
New Flex plate
New balancer
Melling Hi Vol oil pump
Fel Pro gasket set
Rotating ***'y to be externally balanced
Long tube headers to true dual exhaust
I'm staying with stock heads for now (budget) but will give fresh valve job and port. Still haven't choosen an intake (suggestions welcome)
I love this forum and the depth of knowledge here so PLEASE tell me what you think good or bad.
Thanks
I've done alot of reading here on the subject and choose a direction.
My goal is not a race engine/car but a reliable fun street motor/driver. I definitly wanted to build more horsepower than the wimpy L48. Here's where I'm going parts just arrived:
Scat 4340 stroker crank
5.7 rods (stock style w/press fit wrist pins)
Bore .030 over
Speed Pro Flat Top Hypereutectic Pistons
Hastings Moly Rings
Clevite main rod & cam bearings
Double roller timing set
#12-210-2 Comp cam:
1500 - 5500 RPM range
Lobe Sep -110
Duration - 268 / 268
Dur @ .050 - 218 / 218
Lobe lift - .302 / .302
Net Valve lift - .454 / .454
Comp Roller Rockers w/lock nuts 1.5:1 Ratio (same as stock)
Copm Hardened push rods
Elgin valve springs - good to .490 lift
New Flex plate
New balancer
Melling Hi Vol oil pump
Fel Pro gasket set
Rotating ***'y to be externally balanced
Long tube headers to true dual exhaust
I'm staying with stock heads for now (budget) but will give fresh valve job and port. Still haven't choosen an intake (suggestions welcome)
I love this forum and the depth of knowledge here so PLEASE tell me what you think good or bad.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Well, that question is a big one. Short answer . . . I love it. No comparison to the old L48. I haven't pushed it yet, being careful to give her plenty of break in time. Actually I have not been into the secondaries of the carb yet but I have to say tons of torque, and at 3500 rpm feels like the porting work I did really starts to kick in. Plenty of accel left.
Here's some pics:
Boring Block #1.
#1 - 7 Finished to 4.0280.
Set up to Finish Hone.
Dial bore gauge set to 4.0300. Each graduation = .0005''.
Cross hatch pattern for ring seat.
Home made ring filer .032 thick x 3'' dia cutoff wheel in bridgeport w/right angle attachment.
Filing Ring.
#8 piston w/ring compressor.
#8 going in.
Completed short block assembly fully torqued w double roller timing set. Drilled an orfice in the two oil galley plugs behind the cam gear for additional lube to timing chain.
Here's some pics:
Boring Block #1.
#1 - 7 Finished to 4.0280.
Set up to Finish Hone.
Dial bore gauge set to 4.0300. Each graduation = .0005''.
Cross hatch pattern for ring seat.
Home made ring filer .032 thick x 3'' dia cutoff wheel in bridgeport w/right angle attachment.
Filing Ring.
#8 piston w/ring compressor.
#8 going in.
Completed short block assembly fully torqued w double roller timing set. Drilled an orfice in the two oil galley plugs behind the cam gear for additional lube to timing chain.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
I have not dynoed the car or engine however I hired a shop named American Speed, Moline, IL. to balance the rotating assembly, mount the pistons to rods, check line bore and boil the block. They have a very good reputation over 34 years in business building only small block chevys to well over 1000 HP. In describing the details of my build to them they suggested around 420 flywheel horespower.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I have not dynoed the car or engine however I hired a shop named American Speed, Moline, IL. to balance the rotating assembly, mount the pistons to rods, check line bore and boil the block. They have a very good reputation over 34 years in business building only small block chevys to well over 1000 HP. In describing the details of my build to them they suggested around 420 flywheel horespower.
we just did a C4 350 top-end build...
Edelbrock RPM heads, Edelbrock Pro-Flo XT EFI System, Edelbrock RPM cam 234° / 238 .539" / .548" ported and polished and port matched at 11:1 compression long tube headers, 2.5" duel exhaust...
395hp at the rear wheels....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
When I first started this thread my intention was to stay with the stock heads and just refurbish them. Due to the overwhelming advise from forum members to upgrade the heads I did so (and glad I did, thanks guys).
The heads I chose are Flo-Tek's through Speedway Motors. I think the pair assembled were $746.00. 64cc chambers, 2.02 & 1.6 stainless swirl polish valves, bronze guides, top notch seals and valve travel good to .600'' lift.
I felt I was taking a chance due to not much out there about them. As I understand it the castings are poured in Austrailia but all machine and assembly work is done by the Tri State Cylinder Head Co. in Indiana.
The nomenclature packed with the heads recommends your choice of intake, intake gaskets, cam, as well as torque specs. I chose a Felpro #1206 gasket and ported the heads to match.
Here's some pics:
Dykem on head ports.
After positioning gasket and scribing guide lines.
Setup on mill with compound head and ball end tapered end mill.
I chose an angle that blends deep into the ports followed by hand polishing the runners.
Here's the result with 1206 gasket in position.
Same process to the new Edelbrock Performer Air Gap intake.
The heads I chose are Flo-Tek's through Speedway Motors. I think the pair assembled were $746.00. 64cc chambers, 2.02 & 1.6 stainless swirl polish valves, bronze guides, top notch seals and valve travel good to .600'' lift.
I felt I was taking a chance due to not much out there about them. As I understand it the castings are poured in Austrailia but all machine and assembly work is done by the Tri State Cylinder Head Co. in Indiana.
The nomenclature packed with the heads recommends your choice of intake, intake gaskets, cam, as well as torque specs. I chose a Felpro #1206 gasket and ported the heads to match.
Here's some pics:
Dykem on head ports.
After positioning gasket and scribing guide lines.
Setup on mill with compound head and ball end tapered end mill.
I chose an angle that blends deep into the ports followed by hand polishing the runners.
Here's the result with 1206 gasket in position.
Same process to the new Edelbrock Performer Air Gap intake.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
I upgraded to a new Holley fuel pump having about twice delivery of the stock pump. The new pump did not have a return port like the stock pump. After searching the forum re: vapor lock I was concerned and found some of Lars work so when routing the new fuel lines I incorporated a return similar to what I had seen Lars do.
Here's some pics:
First the finished set up, top view.
Front view.
In the next pump view you'll see the lower left fitting (line in from tank), lower right fitting connected to new line to tee top side, and the new return line to connect to the chassis return to tank.
In the mock up stage I made a plug to insert into the tee past the port to carb. The plug has a .040 orfice in it to allow fuel to flow past the carb and back to tank when not needed (thanks Lars for the idea).
Here's the plug.
Inserted into tee.
The line assembly.
After running the engine up to temp you can feel how cool the return line is due to the fuel flowing thru it even though it is close to the head. Also as Lars stated (makes sense) my 8 GPM fuel pump output is more than enough to supply the carb even though a small amount of fuel is bypassing internally.
Here's some pics:
First the finished set up, top view.
Front view.
In the next pump view you'll see the lower left fitting (line in from tank), lower right fitting connected to new line to tee top side, and the new return line to connect to the chassis return to tank.
In the mock up stage I made a plug to insert into the tee past the port to carb. The plug has a .040 orfice in it to allow fuel to flow past the carb and back to tank when not needed (thanks Lars for the idea).
Here's the plug.
Inserted into tee.
The line assembly.
After running the engine up to temp you can feel how cool the return line is due to the fuel flowing thru it even though it is close to the head. Also as Lars stated (makes sense) my 8 GPM fuel pump output is more than enough to supply the carb even though a small amount of fuel is bypassing internally.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
The rear bracket for mounting the AC compressor would not work with the new headers so I had to design something new.
Here's what I came up with:
Front view.
Rear view.
Entire Engine front right.
Entire engine front left.
Here's what I came up with:
Front view.
Rear view.
Entire Engine front right.
Entire engine front left.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Along with the engine build I removed all the front suspension and sway bar. Dismanteld every piece, bead blasted, etch primed, painted, clead coated and reassembled with all urethane bushings.
The spindle assembly.
All components.
Steam cleaned engine bay and undercarriage prior to detailing for engine drop.
Also new radiator, hoses, trans filter, and refirbed, blasted and painted drive shaft and half shafts and assembled with heavy duty u-joints.
The spindle assembly.
All components.
Steam cleaned engine bay and undercarriage prior to detailing for engine drop.
Also new radiator, hoses, trans filter, and refirbed, blasted and painted drive shaft and half shafts and assembled with heavy duty u-joints.
