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Gurus's
Looking to see which specific Reflectix product from Home Depot you used as your heat barrier. I Finally got to drive my 81 on the road since I bought it back in October - Holly hell it got hot inside. I am fixing an exhaust leak (new headers and pipes will cure ). My back window is Not tinted (yet). So I know some sources of the heat but man my back was radiating with heat while sitting at red lights - was not enjoyable.
I searched the forum and all fingers pint to Reflectix which I am happy about as I can go to Home Depot vs. internet ordering, question is...
Is there a self adhesive version, do I need spray glue - looking for a 'get this exact item off the shelf" if someone can provide that.
I am doing a C5 seat swap now so here is the "while I'm at it" starting
I bought a "kit" from one of the vendors, was not 100% thrilled with the kit, it was the same type of reflectixs material you are talking about. I didn't glue mine down, didn't see the need to. I used that aluminum metal tape (think it's aluminum), to seal up the seams between pieces.
I also put down Fatmat Megamat before that for sound insulation it probably blocks some heat but with the two it is very effective at blocking heat.
Header coating is important too. If your headers are uncoated your gonna have more heat radiating through the firewall.
Also put in a valve on the water hose going to your heater. This way you can shut off the water going to the heater core.
DynaLiner is what I used (made by the Dynamat company), and would recommend. It is very substantial foam material with adhesive backing. Cut it to size and stick it on. I used the 1/4" thick but it comes in 1/8 and 1/2.
I used Reflectix from Lowes as described above. Looks like foil covered bubble wrap. I did not glue mine, just cut pieces with scissors and laid it in under the carpet. Works fine and I have not noticed it moving around any. I likely connected the cut seams with duct tape where needed, but I can not remember. Also, did the other list of ways to cut heat, and I noticed a big reduction in cabin heat. I suspect putting in a heater core cutoff valve along with the Reflectix was the biggest contributor.
Hope this might help.
Last edited by 20mercury; Apr 7, 2014 at 05:13 PM.
reflectix under the carpet (everywhere), manual shutoff valve for the heater core, clamp on insulation blankets for the exhaust pipes under the floorboard/seats...... helped tremendously on my 79..... i also installed some self sticking foil backed heat insulation on the AC box in the engine compartment.
Curious on the mention of shut off valve for heater ... I have an 81...something I should know ? Is it always on ? I noticed my feet sweat more than usual when driving it
its just a manual shutoff valve installed in the heater hose line, the factory vacuum controlled valve have been known to leak some. it helps to keep the heat migration from the coolant as far away from the heater core. you can see mine on the intake with red handle (old pic of oem engine)... it helps, i only have it in one line.....
Curious on the mention of shut off valve for heater ... I have an 81...something I should know ? Is it always on ? I noticed my feet sweat more than usual when driving it
The first thing you must do is the manual shutoff valve to the heater core. I did mine 30 years ago and cut the heat substantially. Reflectix is very good and cheap. When I did my carpet, it came with insulation attached to it. I had some 1/2 inch automotive insulation with a reflective backing that I bought years earlier from JC Whitney cheap. I added that on top of the carpet insulation. Never feel ANY heat from the engine, for years now.
I used reflectix over hushmat. I did not use spray adhesive. I would put down a large piece from the firewall down over the floorpan and back to the waterfall. I would then cut smaller and smaller pieces to fill in the next spaces. I used aluminum tape to hold the reflectix down. The adhesive on that stuff is pretty good. If I really needed to pull it back up I could.
Just my 0.02.
When I first bought my vette I would get knee and ankle sweat after driving. No, that is not pleasant....but not any more.
Over time, heat will transfer though to the heater core. Placing valves on both keeps the heat out of the core completely.
With just one you have stopped the water flow but convection will still heat the core overtime.
Dawson is correct.
Insulating the cabin was only one thing I did to keep the car cool. The other two were:
Shutting off hot water thru the heater core. I used a 90deg ball valve like those above.
Secondly, I rebuilt the AC system to get the coolest air possible in the cabin. The C4 blower is key too as is having the cowl flapper working for max a/c mode.
Great Info
I have to replace entire ac system so il look at c4 blower motor
Also I got the reflectix at lowes
If you need to replace the entire AC system why not go with vintage air? Everyone that has that system loves it and says it blows ice cold. That is what I will be going with when it's time to rebuild my dash.
i know this is different but i had a heat reflecting film put on the windshield, it is clear but knocks a tremendous amount of heat out of the car. i had i put on the glass tops too and it is unbelievable. i wanted to do the back glass too but it is too hard to form. i strongly recommend it . i had my other car done on all the glass.
i know this is different but i had a heat reflecting film put on the windshield, it is clear but knocks a tremendous amount of heat out of the car. i had i put on the glass tops too and it is unbelievable. i wanted to do the back glass too but it is too hard to form. i strongly recommend it . i had my other car done on all the glass.
Remember what it's called ? Would local tint shops carry it?